andy p Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 Just been reading Badshead's post about wheel bearings/brakes with interest, as I have recently redone my brakes and wheel bearings (haven't posted my five eggs worth on bearing endfloat but the 3-5 thou figure is arbitary surely, depends on the nut position for a start..... anyway...) . I've fitted new standard pads and discs which I reckon should be fine for my limited use of the vehicle. On removing the first disc for inspection I notice a symetrical groove running round the inside of the disc, about a third way from the outer edge. I initially thought this may have been caused by a stone or something trapped in the caliper at some point. However on removing the other disc I found the exact same thing. Could this be caused by the trunions rubbing on the inner face of each disc, and if so do I need to adjust my suspension set up. I'm thinking maybe of lower wishbone shims (it has none at present) to alter the camber slightly. As far as I know the springs are standard height if that makes any difference. Any thoughts appreciated. Regards AndyP Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 It’s unusual not to have any shims at all on the front wishbones, mine has 3 each side. I’ve been trying figure if this in itself could cause it but my conclusion is that it shouldn’t, although it will affect the camber angle; have you checked the camber angles? I think your problem lies in the trunions; could be due to wear in the brass trunion, the stub axle itself or even poor quality pattern parts. The other thing going through my mind is that the vertical links are handed on the trunion threads but I can’t remember if they use the same basic casting & it’s just the trunion machining that’s different. I don’t know weather it’s actually possible but if fitted to the wrong side of the car it would give the opposite of the desired effect, possibly winding the trunion into the disc face when steering lock is applied; but I may be talking a load of ball rocks here, anyone else know for sure! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Wyn Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 I have the same problem Andy, where the trunion catches the inner part of the disk at full lock, I was confused what the knocking noise was on full lock and found out that it was the trunion catching the cross drilled holes in my disks. I'm in the process of trying to address this problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 Just change the lock stops to 22mm. Regards Harry tr5 nutter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Wyn Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 (edited) Revington TR part number 156111-22, £2.36 each Edited April 7, 2008 by Wyn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marks Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 Revington TR part number 156111, £2.36 each Andy Funny you should mention this, cos some time ago I changed my discs and pads etc cos I had noticed a grove on one disc (inside) I too thought perhaps a stone but now you mention it I reckon it must have been a trunnion some time in its past life. I have one shim fitted on each side and as I'm in the process of rebushing etc will have the geometry checked when I have finished. I did have 205/60 tyres on 6j rims fitted when I bought the car and on full lock to the left the tyre rubbed the sway bar. I fitted 22mm lock stops to counter this. New set up will be 195/65. Perhaps the trunnion had worn that much in the past to rub on the disc??? Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 Its the setting on the lock stops. Easy to demonstrate by jacking the suspension under the spring pan until it has compressed a bit then remove the lock stop and turn steering to full lock whereupon the trunnion bolt will touch the disc through the hole in the water shield. Resetting correctly will stop that and is also useful to stop fouling on some alloys as well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 Just change the lock stops to 22mm.Regards Harry tr5 nutter. are the new 22mm stop locks, just a round bush. not cam shaped as per original? richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 It is just a round bush and I made them up in stainless.OK, you loose some of the steering lock to lock,but still quickly get used to it. Regards Harry TR5 Nutter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 TR Bitz supply the correct eccentric ones. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 It is just a round bush and I made them up in stainless.OK, you loose some of the steering lock to lock,but still quickly get used to it.Regards Harry TR5 Nutter. the nearside was missing on my car.on full lock it sounded like the tyre was ploughing the tarmac. so i made one up, guestimated the size,it cured it. i was just wondering whether 22mm was the correct size. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 Which is the best way to fit the bolts, should the nut be at the front or behind? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andy p Posted April 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 Thank you all for your interesting input. Richard : Rimmers catalogue list both the trunions and vertical links as LH/RH versions so I guess they come paired regarding the thread orientation. HarryTR5/Wyn et al: Thanks for the part mod from Revingtons, will order a pair soon (though they're about £4 each now), don't want my nice new shiney discs to end up the same way.... John L : The trunion bolts enter the trunion from the front, so the slotted nut is to the rear. I was advised once that a nyloc nut would be as suitable. I believe the bolt size is 9/16 UNF, and the torque setting is 60 lbft. From your posts this seems quite a common problem, another small design flaw perhaps...? Many Thanks AndyP Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 (edited) Richard : Rimmers catalogue list both the trunions and vertical links as LH/RH versions so I guess they come paired regarding the thread orientation. But is that just related to the L/H & R/h thread? I'd realy be inerested to know is if the castings are, in fact, the same & it's possible to fit them on the wrong side; assuming they had beenstripped right back & all other identification to possible handing had been removed. Edited April 7, 2008 by Richard Crawley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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