had17462 Posted March 21, 2008 Report Share Posted March 21, 2008 Hi all, iam trying to get a decent gap running along the edge of the bonnet and front wing ,but when the gap nears to the headlamp it widens up, is this the way it is, because the hinge that bolts on the inner wing and bonnet can catch the bonnet edge if its to close,any advice would be great. regards nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted March 22, 2008 Report Share Posted March 22, 2008 Nick When restoring my TR4 the bonnet/ wing gap was horrendous and I was able to put my fingers in the gap. Bearing in mind that my wings and bonnet were "off" at the time, I marked the inner wings where adjustment was required. The "delicate" adjustment involved a large bulk of timber to spread the load and a large club hammer, repositioning the bonnet to check progress until satified with the result. I'm struggling to think of a practical solution to the problem....without removing the wings.....because of the amount of force required. Any other experiences / solutions for Nick folks ? Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
had17462 Posted March 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2008 Nick When restoring my TR4 the bonnet/ wing gap was horrendous and I was able to put my fingers in the gap. Bearing in mind that my wings and bonnet were "off" at the time, I marked the inner wings where adjustment was required. The "delicate" adjustment involved a large bulk of timber to spread the load and a large club hammer, repositioning the bonnet to check progress until satified with the result. I'm struggling to think of a practical solution to the problem....without removing the wings.....because of the amount of force required. Any other experiences / solutions for Nick folks ? Bob Bob i will try that thanks,did you get a good gap? regards nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted March 23, 2008 Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 Nick The answer is yes...at least my local group members...a very experienced bunch... didn't make any negative comments when I got it on the road last November. Take your time and have the tape measure handy to keep checking your progress, you don't want to be bending the wings back and forth too much. You can rest the bonnet back on to get a clear idea when you believe you are nearly there. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
had17462 Posted March 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 NickThe answer is yes...at least my local group members...a very experienced bunch... didn't make any negative comments when I got it on the road last November. Take your time and have the tape measure handy to keep checking your progress, you don't want to be bending the wings back and forth too much. You can rest the bonnet back on to get a clear idea when you believe you are nearly there. Bob Bob my wings are only held on with a couple bolts so i can take them off no problem ,i have just put two new inner wheel arches on so there is still plenty of work to do,the gap is ok until it gets near the front and thats where your eye takes you at first,if you know what i mean,thanks again,regards nick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
woodward Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 I'm in a similar situation....just doing trial fitting of all my panels. Have a reasonably large gap at the front of the bonnet. Also have bit of a "V" on the door to rear wing gap. From what I have observed, a lot of TR4's suffer from the "V" in the gap to the rear wing. Can someone who is knowledgeable let me know how this is fixed? Also, I seem to remember reading something in Roger Williams' book about putting some twisted rope between the front fenders, putting a bar into the twisted rope and twisting it further which brings the front wings together. Has anyone tried this and does it work? Thanks Myles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 Myles I considered the twisted rope suggestion of Roger Williams Page 58 of his Restoration Manual but dismissed it on the basis of using one attachment point each side.A lump of thick timber spreads the load over a wider area and is less likely to distort the metal if you are not ham fisted in bashing with your club hammer.It's also quicker. I guess you would have to fix a bolt/ welding clamp/ mole wrench each side to attach a rope to..flying mole wrenches once under pressure, as you wind up the rope...nope !! Pass the club hammer , please. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 Myles To answer the other part of your question ( sorry, I was required for domestic chores..family coming for lunch later ). The gaps around the door are a matter of obtaining the best compromise.As other Forum posters have said the glass leading edge to windscreen frame is probably the most important.The rest as they say is a question of jiggling every other part to get the best gap all round.From your description the gap isn't that big ( ? ). Have you experimented with hinge packing pieces, either door side or body side, maybe just the top hinge will do the trick. Moss part 610042 ..75p each.A cheap expiremental stage fix would be waxed cornflake packet layers, use a hinge to draw out the shape and punch through the holes for the bolts, cut away excess cardboard so that it lies flat.A couple of plain flat strips stuffed behind a loosely fitted hinge, then tightened up , will give you an "educated guess" as to how many thickenesses you might need to cut out.If it works to your satisfaction you can then buy the appropriate number of the real packing pieces. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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