monty Posted November 5, 2007 Report Share Posted November 5, 2007 Hi All, Just had a L/H door check strap break. Can somebody tell me how I go about replacing this item. Although it is a TR4A it appears, according to the Moss parts book, that the restorer has fitted early TR4 check straps (part no: 613913). No gaiter has been fitted & interestingly there are no screws securing the strap assembly to the A post & I am really not sure how it has been secured (welded during restoration from the inside?). Is it possible or better to fit the later check strap listed as later TR4 & TR4A (Moss no: 613622) & how is it affixed? Any help appreciated as usual. Regards, Monty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 5, 2007 Report Share Posted November 5, 2007 Hi Monty, I have just purchased a couple of replacement door check straps. I'm not sure what style are yours but mine are the standard ones shown in the Moss 4A catalogue. Ref the fixing - Moss supply two bloody great pop rivets for each strap. They are long enough to hold the radiator together from the drivers door!!!!. These pops would not pull down with a standard set of pop pliers and there is no way that the lazy tongue pullers will get in to the confined space. I assume that short 2BA, 10/32 mush-headed bolts/screws are required. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted November 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2007 Hi Monty, I have just purchased a couple of replacement door check straps. I'm not sure what style are yours but mine are the standard ones shown in the Moss 4A catalogue. Ref the fixing - Moss supply two bloody great pop rivets for each strap. They are long enough to hold the radiator together from the drivers door!!!!. These pops would not pull down with a standard set of pop pliers and there is no way that the lazy tongue pullers will get in to the confined space. I assume that short 2BA, 10/32 mush-headed bolts/screws are required. Roger Thanks Roger, sounds a difficult one as I thought! Do your part numbers correspond with those I gave? Were you replacing thew check straps during restoration or on a running car? Regards, Monty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Worne Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Hi Monty, if you dig into the TR6 forum, this subject was fully covered around 3-4 months ago including part nos, how to do etc. Good hunting. If you have a problem, please let me know. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted November 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Hi Monty, if you dig into the TR6 forum, this subject was fully covered around 3-4 months ago including part nos, how to do etc. Good hunting. If you have a problem, please let me know. Dave Thanks |Dave, found that ok & now have the check strap out & in my hand! However it is all ok and the part that is broken is the kind of 'spring' thing that sits between the 2 rivets. (613855?) What do I need to do here? Is there an alternative to refixing the 'spring' between new rivets as I am not confident about replacing the rivets! Regards, Monty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Worne Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 Hi Monty. I'll say first of all that I haven't had to do this excercise myself, so here are my thoughts. I have been in Automotive engineering for a number of years & knowing the techniques applied for cost effectiveness it is likely that the check strap arrestor was spun rivetted on to the A post during the manufacturing process & before the post was assembled into the tub. Therefore the rivet process can be replaced by using bolts of a similar dimension. Get access to the back of the A post by removing the trim panel & look at the problem of removing any remaining rivet etc - pick the easiest side to remove where you can sacrifice the rivet or the stop - I suggest that a Dremel grinder will easily remove the head or tail of the rivet, which can then be gently punched out. Fit a new check strap stop using pan head bolts, probably readily available from your local hardware store. Two things to look out for, that the check strap is not impeded by the bolt (or Nut) & be careful with the check strap off the door as the door can open too wide, resulting in an appointment with the body shop. It may be worth having a natter with one of the big Triumph restorers before starting this as I'm sure that they will have come accross this problem before. Some of our forum contributors will also have had this problem & may know a better way. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted November 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 Hi Monty.I'll say first of all that I haven't had to do this excercise myself, so here are my thoughts. I have been in Automotive engineering for a number of years & knowing the techniques applied for cost effectiveness it is likely that the check strap arrestor was spun rivetted on to the A post during the manufacturing process & before the post was assembled into the tub. Therefore the rivet process can be replaced by using bolts of a similar dimension. Get access to the back of the A post by removing the trim panel & look at the problem of removing any remaining rivet etc - pick the easiest side to remove where you can sacrifice the rivet or the stop - I suggest that a Dremel grinder will easily remove the head or tail of the rivet, which can then be gently punched out. Fit a new check strap stop using pan head bolts, probably readily available from your local hardware store. Two things to look out for, that the check strap is not impeded by the bolt (or Nut) & be careful with the check strap off the door as the door can open too wide, resulting in an appointment with the body shop. It may be worth having a natter with one of the big Triumph restorers before starting this as I'm sure that they will have come accross this problem before. Some of our forum contributors will also have had this problem & may know a better way. Dave Thanks Dave, all done as you described so hope that will last as it was a horrible little job! Regards, Monty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 I had a similar experience with the dreadfull springs of the doorstop. The first spring lasted for 32 years, although it produced, at every opening, this annoying clacking sound. The new spring on the drivers side just lasted for 2 years before it broke again. Same as Dave mentioned I had fixed it with 2 appropriate screws. It's a fiddle to replace it, but the major problem is not to damage the front wing while the strap is unbolted. I suggest to, temporarily, fit a soft rubber strip along the door's leading edge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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