rpurchon Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 which type of oil stat. i have just fitted a oil cooler to my 6. before fitting the oil temp would reach 130c on motorway run. going to malvern and back it only just reached 70c.and that is with a 2"strip of masking tape across the cooler. i need a oil stat. does any one have a push on type on there car.if so has it made oil pressure any lower. dont want to get a [full flow]screw on type if i can help it. they are twice the price and i will have to get the pipes sorted. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 Afraid I can't help in your quest - I have a screw-on thermostat in the oil lines to/from the oil cooler. I do have a question though - what kind of oil temp sensor/gauge have you fitted, and where did you put the sensor? For that matter, where did you put the gauge - my dash is getting a little too boy-racer-ish, with vacuum, AFR and fuel pressure gauges on top of it... Cheers, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 You probably don't need a stat. 70c is a bit on the low side but the oil will have been more efficiently cooled by the water (rain & spray) than normal dry airflow over the cooler. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted July 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 hi, i put the oil temp sender in the bottom/side of the sump right next to the pick up pipe. the sender is the same as the water temp sender.i used a rear hub nut [same thread] and welded that to sump.as for the oil temp gauge i made a new dash and put it where the dash light rheostat is..id post a picture but i cant yet. i tested the sender/gauge in the top of a flask of boiling water and it read 90 c. and digital multimeter with temp probe read same. so its accurate. you mention you have a airfuel gauge. i have just started to make one.is it a narrow band or wide band sensor. i have twin SUs and dont know whether to fit one sensor bottom of manifold or 2 one on for each carb.only while setting up the carbs.then put a bung in the hole. if you know whot i mean.richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted July 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 i went down sunday when it was sunny.and it only just got to 70c.driving around trying [i failed]to get to the site it got slightly higher..then driving home i didnt spare the horses if you know whot i mean 2hours driving and it still only got to 70c.also it takes ages to get to 50c from cold. before fitting the cooler it would be about 90c [just right]normal roads but on the main roads motorway it would creep up to 130c+.once the temps high it stayes high for a very long time. in the winter i doesnt do it, so i definatley need a stat. again has any one got a push on oil stat on there car. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted July 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 photo of oil temp gauge if it works Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 Now that's a nice job! My AFR etc are sitting on top of the dash in a temporary housing secured to the ashtray with a cable tie... FYI, the AFR is a home-made kit (ref KC5195 on this page), connected to a 4-wire narrow band sensor I got from a scrapyard. Only much use close to the ideal stoichiometric ratio, but once you've got it calibrated it gives a reasonable indication of where you have over-rich or -lean mixture - just not by how much! Is it possible that installing the oil temp gauge made you think you had a problem when in fact you don't (i.e. is 130degC OK)? I have no idea what normal oil temp is, but maybe you didn't really need an oil cooler. Just a thought. Cheers, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted July 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2007 i had the oil temp gauge fitted through last winter and the oil temp good at 80-90c. but as soon as it became warmer[back in sunny april] the oil temps gone up.after a motorway run waiting at a junction at tickocer the oil light starts to come on if the oils 130c. it really does take a long time to cool when hot. i had a free oil cooler,i had already bought the spin on take off.so it seemed a good idea to fit. but now its not getting hot enough. i think 80-100c is the right temp. the air fuel gauge i am making is similar to yours but has 2 chips.diy wiring diagram from the internet. oxygen sensors are about £15 new [ebay] cheers richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted August 1, 2007 Report Share Posted August 1, 2007 Hi Richard, I've just noticed that the oil & water temp sensors have different resistance ranges - see the Greenguages website. GG is part of the same group as Caerbont Automotive Instruments, which manufactures the Smiths gauges supplied by Speedy Cables. Could your use of a water temp sensor connected to an oil temp gauge be giving you a distorted reading? Cheers, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cinnobar Posted August 2, 2007 Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 To be honest I wouldn't worry, 70 C is OK, I've had issues with oil stats jamming in the past on engines & in one case trashing the engine, so don't go anywhere near them. I'd try another bit of tape if concerned. A lot of race stuff runs around the 70 C mark with no issues. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted August 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 Hi Richard, I've just noticed that the oil & water temp sensors have different resistance ranges - see the Greenguages website. GG is part of the same group as Caerbont Automotive Instruments, which manufactures the Smiths gauges supplied by Speedy Cables. Could your use of a water temp sensor connected to an oil temp gauge be giving you a distorted reading?Cheers, John no as i posted in my original thread, i checked the gauge and sender in the top of a flask of boiling water. and it read 90c on the gauge.checked with digital meter with temp probe which also read 90c richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davehop Posted August 5, 2007 Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 Hi all Sorry to hijack - can anybody tell me which is flow and which is return on a spin-on adapter (Top or Bottom), as i'm trying to fit a stat myself? many thanks Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike G Posted August 6, 2007 Report Share Posted August 6, 2007 Dave There is no flow or return as such. If like mine, you have a Mocal Stat, the oil will flow from the pump and along to the stat. The stat is shaped like a letter “H”, when the oil is cool the cross bar of the “H” is open and because the oil takes the line of least resistance, it will flow this way, as it heads for your engine. As the oil temperature increases, the stat in the cross bar closes and the oil then flows on to the cooler. It is designed this way, so that you can never starve the engine on that all important oil. I hope this answers your query. Mike G Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted August 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2007 Hi all Sorry to hijack - can anybody tell me which is flow and which is return on a spin-on adapter (Top or Bottom), as i'm trying to fit a stat myself? many thanks Dave run the car a while and see which is the warmer pipe. that will be flow. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davehop Posted August 9, 2007 Report Share Posted August 9, 2007 Hi Guys Thanks for the replies. My stat is a Flotec as is the spin-on adapter. Checked with the supplier as I didn't trust myself to experiment(!) as the stat has definitely got flow and return unions for the engine side. For the record on the adapter it turns out that the top union is return and the bottom is flow. Cheers Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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