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this is my first time on this forum thing, having read other subjects this looks quite good for discussing TRs, I own a yellow TR6

 

just returned from the North Yorkshire weekend, the car is fitted with a kenlowe fan and new radiator, according to the guy i bought the car from last year.

 

the temp gauge has always gone around 3/4 with the fan cutting in but no higher when in traffic, when the car runs along i.e 30 plus the temp gauge goes back to normal central position.

 

At the weekend the gauge was showing the pointer at H but no dramatic blast of steam etc which has always happenedlin other TRs i have owned

 

Setting off home on the sunday i put the fan on override and the temp went gradually up to H until i hit the A64 bypassed Castle Howard and went home teh temp returned to the central postion and ran great all the way home to Sunderland

 

i thought right fit new pump radiator and thermo to cure (hope its not the head gasket), talking toTRGB better not fit everything if it does not need it so i think it could be the sensor

 

i work away so i have two weekends to fix this before Malvern any thoughts,

 

this weekend i will fit a new sender then try and overheat the car in the garage. Also check i have a four core rad fitted, i have a new Pacet fan from TRGB with 30% extra efficiency ready to fit.

 

regards

 

david

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Setting off home on the sunday i put the fan on override and the temp went gradually up to H until i hit the A64 bypassed Castle Howard and went home teh temp returned to the central postion and ran great all the way home to Sunderland

 

iregards

 

david

Hi Dave and welcome to the forum.

 

If you put the fan on overide, does the fan actually come on ?(switch problem) Have you heard the fan cut in when it reaches the 3/4 mark to drop it to normal position? (thermostatic switch problem)

 

I would also check all the connections are in place. Also check the fuse, sounds obvious but is easily forgotten.

 

I find with mine that any blast up the road will reduce the temperature and the fan does not need to come on. It generally only comes if i get stuck in town traffic.

 

Regards Guy

Edited by Jersey Royal
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Hi Dave and welcome to the forum.

 

If you put the fan on overide, does the fan actually come on ?(switch problem) Have you heard the fan cut in when it reaches the 3/4 mark to drop it to normal position? (thermostatic switch problem)

 

I would also check all the connections are in place. Also check the fuse, sounds obvious but is easily forgotten.

 

I find with mine that any blast up the road will reduce the temperature and the fan does not need to come on. It generally only comes if i get stuck in town traffic.

 

Regards Guy

 

Guy

 

the fan comes on with the override and when getting hot, the temp does not seem to go down until i start to drive at speed, when it reached H at the weekend i switched the engine off and left the fan running until it was my turn to move in the que does this ring any bells david

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The temp gauge sensor is just under the top hose ie is directly affected by the heat of water in the block but the Kenlowe fan sensor on mine is a capilliary wire tucked into the top hose connection to the radiator. I have always felt this is part of the problem as at slow speed there is some air flowing though the rad cooling the bottom half of the rad whilst the hotter water is at the top. However the air is not pushing through round the engine getting rid of heat build up. So you actually have 3 different heat zones. The tip I was given was to pop the bonnet open in slow moving traffic which lets heat build up from the block and the exhaust. If everything has been flushed through and the car has not overheated I would try this before going for replacements etc

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The temp gauge sensor is just under the top hose ie is directly affected by the heat of water in the block but the Kenlowe fan sensor on mine is a capilliary wire tucked into the top hose connection to the radiator. I have always felt this is part of the problem as at slow speed there is some air flowing though the rad cooling the bottom half of the rad whilst the hotter water is at the top. However the air is not pushing through round the engine getting rid of heat build up. So you actually have 3 different heat zones. The tip I was given was to pop the bonnet open in slow moving traffic which lets heat build up from the block and the exhaust. If everything has been flushed through and the car has not overheated I would try this before going for replacements etc

 

Hi

my unit has a stainless tube with the moss switch fitted ,i think the range is around 70 ish deg C. So i will let the car overheat as shown by the gauge then pop then bonnet to see if the heat dissipates away from the engine bay therefore reducing the heat build up and allowing the fan to cool the system, sounds good i will let you know how it goes when i get home friday night

thanks david

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Just a thought. Have you got the electric fan wired the correct way round? Make sure that it is blowing cool air through the radiator and not drawing the hot air off the engine.

 

 

Put a sheet of paper in between rad and engine, if it sticks to rad its sucking,and clearly if it moves off rad its blowing

 

 

Guy

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Just a thought. Have you got the electric fan wired the correct way round? Make sure that it is blowing cool air through the radiator and not drawing the hot air off the engine.

 

Ian

great the guy i bought it from could have wired it the wrong way i never thought about it i will check with paper as suggested from Guy

 

thanks

david

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David,

It was only recently that I saw this happen on a friend's TR4. He had a good excuse though, he is colour blind. :P

checked the fan it is sucking throught the rad, i have a new pacet fan which according to TRGB fits in front of the rad and blows through, this will be fitted at the weekend and hopefully fix it,

i also went out with the roof down as was a bit cold late at night my son then pulled the heater valve to put the heater on, having checked the rad for 4 cores there was a shortage of water so i have topped up and ran it, the gauge never goes past 3/4 and the fan cuts in and out.

 

i think with a possible air lock in the system coupled by a new fitting fan blowing, it should be OK, i will post my results when known

 

thanks to Guy and jemgee i also tried all your suggestions

 

david

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checked the fan it is sucking throught the rad, i have a new pacet fan which according to TRGB fits in front of the rad and blows through, this will be fitted at the weekend and hopefully fix it,

i also went out with the roof down as was a bit cold late at night my son then pulled the heater valve to put the heater on, having checked the rad for 4 cores there was a shortage of water so i have topped up and ran it, the gauge never goes past 3/4 and the fan cuts in and out.

 

i think with a possible air lock in the system coupled by a new fitting fan blowing, it should be OK, i will post my results when known

 

thanks to Guy and jemgee i also tried all your suggestions

 

david

 

Well just ran the TR this weekend and things seem to be fine, (ran through Sunderland city traffic lunchtime on a Saturday) it just goes to show you think the worst and a simple air lock must have been the problem, i will travel to Malvern and see if its still OK if not i am in the AA

 

thanks, again for all the advice and help it was great

 

see you there

 

David ORM 256M

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Well just ran the TR this weekend and things seem to be fine, (ran through Sunderland city traffic lunchtime on a Saturday) it just goes to show you think the worst and a simple air lock must have been the problem, i will travel to Malvern and see if its still OK if not i am in the AA

 

thanks, again for all the advice and help it was great

 

see you there

 

David ORM 256M

 

Pleased you seem to have sorted it.

 

See you at Malvern

 

Guy

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Glad to see you got it sorted David and safe trip to Malvern! Quick tip for those with electric fans - the fan sensor is better off being fitted in the bottom hose to avoid heat spikes. The job of the electric fan being to help the radiator the bottom hose is the place where the temperature is going to tell you the rad needs a helping hand.

 

Cheers Steve

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Glad to see you got it sorted David and safe trip to Malvern! Quick tip for those with electric fans - the fan sensor is better off being fitted in the bottom hose to avoid heat spikes. The job of the electric fan being to help the radiator the bottom hose is the place where the temperature is going to tell you the rad needs a helping hand.

 

Cheers Steve

 

thanks

 

steve, see you there

 

david

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