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As I’ve written before on these pages: the restoration of my TR is well on it’s way! Last March I shipped the car to a nearby workshop and since then, I gradually started the restoration. Since March I’ve been busy collecting all sorts of parts. And last week the real strip down started. Removing all sorts of items, tagging and bagging them and then storing them safely. Henk, the owner of the workshop is an experienced TR restorer and he knows how to store all sorts of TR parts in manageable ‘chunks’.

 

Today he phoned me at work and told me that he had removed the tub from the chassis. I left my job early this afternoon to have a look. There it was: a well-braced tub on a jig, a rolling chassis behind it on the floor

 

Over the years, the bodywork has remained in a pretty good state. After removing the front wings, there visible is rust on the front part of the sills and the lower part of the wings (where water is trapped between the sill and wing). And there’s evidence of a badly repaired rear end collision: the rear apron is body filler central.

For now, I’m happy with the situation. Things could have been a lot worse! Later this week, the tub will go to a well known body shop. The guys over there are going to take care of the body: blasting, priming and painting. They will also take care of the welding.

 

And then the chassis: on first sight, all looks to be all right: straight, no signs of impact (not on the rear end as well). After removing all parts, the chassis will be measured, blasted and painted. Don’t know about powder coating. I’ve heard different things about that. And, after all: the chassis survived 50 years unharmed with ‘factory finish’ only. So, every new form of metal protection will enhance the lifetime of the chassis, I think.

 

Are there any advices to be given about strengthening the chassis? I think that this is the moment to do so!

 

Perhaps, after reading all of the above, you may think that it’s all a ‘chequebook restoration’. Well, perhaps it is, but I know my limitations. After buying lots of boxes and a rolling tub, I’ve made a road legal car out of the pile of TR parts. And I know now what I’m capable off: I’m capable of assembling a car, not restoring it myself. That’s why I choose the workshop-route.

 

I’ve put some pictures on the ‘net. You can find them on Photobucket (see the link below, in the signature line)

 

Menno

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Menno- Have you got Roger Williams book, "How to improve Triumph TR2-4A" ? This has a chapter in it about the chassis strengthening, as well as a load of other information. A worthwhile buy I thought, available from the Register.

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As I’ve written before on these pages: the restoration of my TR is well on it’s way! Last March I shipped the car to a nearby workshop and since then, I gradually started the restoration. Since March I’ve been busy collecting all sorts of parts. And last week the real strip down started. Removing all sorts of items, tagging and bagging them and then storing them safely. Henk, the owner of the workshop is an experienced TR restorer and he knows how to store all sorts of TR parts in manageable ‘chunks’.

 

Today he phoned me at work and told me that he had removed the tub from the chassis. I left my job early this afternoon to have a look. There it was: a well-braced tub on a jig, a rolling chassis behind it on the floor

 

Over the years, the bodywork has remained in a pretty good state. After removing the front wings, there visible is rust on the front part of the sills and the lower part of the wings (where water is trapped between the sill and wing). And there’s evidence of a badly repaired rear end collision: the rear apron is body filler central.

For now, I’m happy with the situation. Things could have been a lot worse! Later this week, the tub will go to a well known body shop. The guys over there are going to take care of the body: blasting, priming and painting. They will also take care of the welding.

 

And then the chassis: on first sight, all looks to be all right: straight, no signs of impact (not on the rear end as well). After removing all parts, the chassis will be measured, blasted and painted. Don’t know about powder coating. I’ve heard different things about that. And, after all: the chassis survived 50 years unharmed with ‘factory finish’ only. So, every new form of metal protection will enhance the lifetime of the chassis, I think.

 

Are there any advices to be given about strengthening the chassis? I think that this is the moment to do so!

 

Perhaps, after reading all of the above, you may think that it’s all a ‘chequebook restoration’. Well, perhaps it is, but I know my limitations. After buying lots of boxes and a rolling tub, I’ve made a road legal car out of the pile of TR parts. And I know now what I’m capable off: I’m capable of assembling a car, not restoring it myself. That’s why I choose the workshop-route.

 

I’ve put some pictures on the ‘net. You can find them on Photobucket (see the link below, in the signature line)

 

Menno

 

Hello Menno I enjoyed your pictures I wish I had the computer knowledge to be able to do what you have done,It gives encouragement for people such as myself in the middle of a rebuild to see what others are doing, I have done most of mine myself, but only because I enjoy doing it and luckily have the ability to do most of the work I have sent my seat kits to a trimmer so we all need help in some areas, I had my chassis powder coated, it looks good but as you say the original one coat paint did survive or was it the oil which helped.

regards

Peter

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Menno- Have you got Roger Williams book, "How to improve Triumph TR2-4A" ? This has a chapter in it about the chassis strengthening, as well as a load of other information. A worthwhile buy I thought, available from the Register.

 

Well, I've tried, but the book is sold out for the moment; I've tried the Register webshop and bol.com. Amazon sells one for $ 65! So, if you have a spare one left...

 

Menno

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Menno, Thanks for the update. Always of interest.

I think it depends what you are going to use the car for. Obviously you need to ensure the chassis is straight and that the original welded joints are sound. If it is just for road use then maybe the only strengthening you need consider is possibly to the rear lever shock absorber mounting points with extra ribbing if you are proposing using uprated lever arm shock absorbers. The rear spring hanger cross tube can also have a slightly smaller tube welded inside the original for extra strength and this doesn't show when painted.

I think you need to be careful about strengthening elsewhere as if you stiffen the chassis in one place this puts extra stress on the unstiffened portion and could eventually crack the welds in those areas. If you propose any rally use then clearly the chassis will need strengthening but in that case I would take professional advice as to where to add the strengthening relative to the extra modifications fitted for the above reason.

Good luck

Trevor.

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Hi Menno

 

Thanks for posting the photos, will be interesting to see it evolve over time.

 

Roger Williams' book should be available through the Register Office, see: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/regalia.htm but make sure you get the new colour version, as I have the black & white one and it is not easy to make out the detail.

 

How about trailoring you car to Malvern for the TR3A 50th Anniversary?

 

Cheers

Andrew

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I just started writing a reply about the How to IMPROVE...-book and that it's virtually impossible to buy this book, when Philip Peereboom called. He imports TR Revington parts to Holland and he has a copy of the book on the shelf! So, next week i'm going to collect a a lot of parts and also the book I'm currently looking for. (And I will be spending lots of money... but, hey: it's all for a good cause!)

 

Anyway, thank you for the imput till now. A comments will be considered!

 

Menno

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