67_gt6 Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 Recently failed MOT on inefficient handbrake. Problems really caused by poor condition of compensator where the cables exit it and the 2 guides that the inner cables pass through on the tunnel just behind the compensator, leading to snags in the guides and cables occasionally twanging out of the compensator. After discovering that 2nd hand compensators are made from unobtainium I put it mine in a vice to close up the cable exit gaps a bit and then filed the gaps back out so that the inner cables could just squeeze in. Before refitting cables I put two washers on them - big enough for the inner cables to pass through but too small for the outer cables - so that the washers sit between outer cable ends and the guides, so a good yank on the handbrake runs no risk of snagging on the guides on return. At a stroke this has solved all the problems and the handbrake action is now as smooth as silk. Should sail through retest tomorrow. cheers Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted June 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Spoke too soon. Failed again, apparently handbrake efficiency is at 17%, should be 25% I took the test at my local Farmers Autocare (ie Tom Farmer who used to own Kwik Fit) and the young guy is as keen to get it through as I am. He knew I had to have a certain amount of play in my front bearings so he is reasonably clued up on old cars. He also ignored the fact that the driver's seat tilt lever doesn't retain the seat to the frame so I don't particularly want to try my luck elsewhere with a fresh test and maybe get picked up on that. I've fully adjusted everything, shoes are new, I can't pull the lever past the 5th notch on the ratchet even with 2 hands, it easily holds the car on my local test hill. Not sure what my remaining options are - if I wind the adjusters up any further shoes start to drag. Should I wind out the fork ends to give a bit more free cable to pull up? Are there any keen metal workers out there who fancy knocking up a pair of Roger Williams style cable lever extensions for some beer tokens? Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 5, 2007 Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Andy try winding the cable adjusters out a little more as you get more of a pull with a longer travel on the lever. Also check what kerb weight has been put into the system as that is the basis of the percentage that you are trying to achieve.I put in the dry kerb weight to achieve a pass with mine! Dont forget to wind up the brake adjusters solid before adjusting the cables and then readjust afterwards. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Andy, Have a look at this TR4A Handbrake thread. Contains some useful ideas - the last one looks a quick and cheap (i.e. free) solution although I haven't tried it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted June 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 Andy, Have a look at this TR4A Handbrake thread. Contains some useful ideas - the last one looks a quick and cheap (i.e. free) solution although I haven't tried it. Thanks Brian I may have to consider that. Stuart, you may be on to something with the weight issue. My commission plate gives dry kerb weight as 969kg and gross laden as 1380kg which is a heck of a difference. The workshop manual gives dry as 965kg and "complete" as 1015kg. Hopefully I can persuade them to use one of the lower figures if they aren't already. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Andy the weight will make one hell of a difference as you are trying to achieve a 25% of weight retardation. The rear brake balance on a TR4a is only just a bit more than that anyway(not sure of the exact figure) and thats on hydraulic cylinders! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted June 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Stuart, do you happen to know if the tester is required to use the gross laden weight by law? Can anyone comment on whether my commission plate is accurate with regard to the GLW of 1380kg? (it looks like it might be a repro).# Thanks Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Stuart, do you happen to know if the tester is required to use the gross laden weight by law? Can anyone comment on whether my commission plate is accurate with regard to the GLW of 1380kg? (it looks like it might be a repro).# Thanks Andy Andy as far as my local tester goes the first time i tested my 4a on the new computerised test he asked me for the kerb weight and i gave him the dry weight and the computer accepted it and away we went. Workshop manual states dry weight as 965kg and complete including fuel, oil, water and tools as 1015kg. Dont forget that assumes a full tank of fuel i.e. 11/12 gallons (depending what tank is fitted) @ 10lbs per gallon Hope this helps. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 (edited) The combined TR4/4A workshop manual figures quoted by Stuart are for the TR4, but no alternative figures are given for the TR4A. However, the TR4A Owners Handbook gives weight as: Complete (including fuel, oil, water and tools) IRS Models________ 20 cwts Live Axle models___ 19.75 cwts (You do the maths if you want it in Kgs ) No mention is made of the additional weight of steel hardtop, but as you want the lowest figure for this exercise I guess that's irrelevant. BTW: Lynda's TR4A commision plate does not have a figure stamped in the Gross Weight space, but although the plate looks fairly battered, it could be a replacement. I'm sure someone with a more original car will confirm whether a figure was ever stamped on the plate (and if so, what it was). Edited June 8, 2007 by BrianC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 You can get your car weighed for about £10 + VAT at a Public Weighbridge - call the Weights & Measures Dept of your local Council for details. I did, and I can tell you that 4VC weighs 1016 kg (2240 lbs or an Imperial ton or 20 cwt) with some 28 kg (60lbs) of spares & tools and 12 gallons of fuel (tank is 18 gallons), and its "Surrey" metal lid in position. I suspect that a standard TR4 with "Surrey" top, full tank and a more normal collection of tools and spares (I carry a lot!) would weigh about 1016 kg, as it would have steel, not alloy, panels. A TR4A would weigh a bit more, but never 1380 kg! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 Hi all, my two penn'rth is that the GLW weight if the vehicle id being used for pulling a trailer, if the GLW is over the plate limit the trailer must its own braking system, 1016kg is the one to use, for the MoT. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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