salmon Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 Has anyone done the sump gasket on thier Tr6, and if so how hard is it? Anything I need to watch out for? Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike G Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 (edited) Hi It is quite straight forward. You will have to make sure you use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts back up, especially the ones at the front of the engine, as there is an Aluminium bride piece there, that allows access to the front main bearing. I managed to strip the threads on one and had to put a Helicoil in. If you check your crankshaft end float, it would be an ideal time to renew the thrust washers, if it is a little on the high side. These are not very expensive to buy. Mike G Edited April 28, 2007 by Mike G Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotty Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 If you check your crankshaft end float, it would be an ideal time to renew the thrust washers, if it is a little on the high side. These are not very expensive to buy. Mike G Very good advice . Easy job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ron Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 It is also worth going round the flange of the sump with a hammer and dolly or something similar to make sure the flange is flat and undistorted, a lot of them have been abused by overtightening over the years. Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 I wonder if most people buy this gasket, as part of a bottom end gasket set? All you need is a sheet of gasket paper and a punch : it takes only 15 minutes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salmon Posted April 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2007 HiIt is quite straight forward. You will have to make sure you use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts back up, especially the ones at the front of the engine, as there is an Aluminium bride piece there, that allows access to the front main bearing. I managed to strip the threads on one and had to put a Helicoil in. If you check your crankshaft end float, it would be an ideal time to renew the thrust washers, if it is a little on the high side. These are not very expensive to buy. Mike G Cheers for all the advice. Not massively mechanically minded, but think I'll have a go at the thrust washers aswell. Have to have a look at the haynes manual, hopefully easy to follow!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ron Posted April 29, 2007 Report Share Posted April 29, 2007 Hi Once the sump is off the thrust washers are easy, [apart from having to do it lying on your back with the odd oil drip!] take off the rear main bearing cap, turn the thrusts out one at a time, easiest way is using the new one to poke the old one out, important, fit the new ones with the oil grooves facing away from each other ie towards the crank journal, refit the bearing cap the correct way round and torque it. The size or oversize of the thrusts is marked on them, try and get your end float near to the minimum, the easiest and most accurate method of checking the end float is with feeler gauges at the new thrusts before the cap is replaced. Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted April 29, 2007 Report Share Posted April 29, 2007 Has anyone done the sump gasket on thier Tr6, and if so how hard is it? Anything I need to watch out for? Cheers if you are interested or any one else? i could machine your rear bearing block to take a 3rd thrust washer.£15.00 i have done my own on 2 engines. and when done its one less thing worry about. i would post a picture but i dont know how.contact me for a picture and more info. richard rpurchon@ntlworld.com Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim_trinda Posted May 3, 2007 Report Share Posted May 3, 2007 i would post a picture but i dont know how Richard Posted a couple of your pictures. ====== Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ron Posted May 3, 2007 Report Share Posted May 3, 2007 (edited) Richard I like your idea for stopping the thrusts turning. Ron Edited May 3, 2007 by ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted May 3, 2007 Report Share Posted May 3, 2007 Richard Posted a couple of your pictures. ====== Tim thanks for putting pictures on. im not a computer nerd but how do you put pictures on? richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Les Pettitt Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 Hi Richard Sorry to be a bit dim but could you explain how adding a third thrust washer helps. I 've never looked at mine in 30 years but hear plenty of horror stories about them so I guess I should pay them more attention. How does a third thrust washer aid longevity or stop the others turning/falling out? Thanks for your help Regards Les Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 Hi RichardSorry to be a bit dim but could you explain how adding a third thrust washer helps. I 've never looked at mine in 30 years but hear plenty of horror stories about them so I guess I should pay them more attention. How does a third thrust washer aid longevity or stop the others turning/falling out? Thanks for your help Regards Les ok , every time you press the clutch and if you have std cooling fan the crank is pushed forward.against the the rear thrust washer. eventualy the thrust washer will wear enough to turn and drop into the bottom of the sump. and the crank will wear against the rear bearing cap. yes it will take along time apx 30 years and 1 month ? if you have 2 washers at the rear it will take twice as long. cheers richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Les Pettitt Posted May 6, 2007 Report Share Posted May 6, 2007 Hi Richard, Thanks for the explanation. I was browsing the site at work on Friday and should have engaged my brain before posting. I came home and looked in my Roger Williams "How to improve " page 102 and noticed he recommends exactly the mod you described. I had forgotten we only have half thrust washers and they are only in the crankcase. Next time I have the sump off I will have a good look at them. Thanks again for your patience and the explanation. Regards Les Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6driver Posted May 7, 2007 Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 if you are interested or any one else? i could machine your rear bearing block to take a 3rd thrust washer.£15.00 i have done my own on 2 engines. and when done its one less thing worry about. i would post a picture but i dont know how.contact me for a picture and more info. richard rpurchon@ntlworld.com Hi Richard. I want to have my rear bearing block machined to take a 3rd trust washer. Can you mail me your adress and info to : oenord@hotmail.com Regards Oystein Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salmon Posted May 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 Gasket is done, and think it still leaks even though put lots of Hylomar on. Looks to be coming from the front, sure the front wasn't flush which is why. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 Gasket is done, and think it still leaks even though put lots of Hylomar on. Looks to be coming from the front, sure the front wasn't flush which is why. are you sure its not the front oilseal or timing cover leaking..is hymolar silicone? if so all the stringy bits will block the early oil pump filter [ did it on mine ] or get into a oil way. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salmon Posted May 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2007 are you sure its not the front oilseal or timing cover leaking..is hymolar silicone?if so all the stringy bits will block the early oil pump filter [ did it on mine ] or get into a oil way. richard Hylomar is just a paste to help seal gaskets not sure if its silicone as it doesn't set, hope is won't block anything! Could well be coming from some where else, will have to get it back up on the ramps and have a look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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