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About luukkala

  • Birthday 10/14/1966

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  • Location
    Vihti / Finland
  1. Hi John, I ordered the whole lot from John Skinner. To me this was easier given only one international shipment/delivery rather than collecting the bits and pieces from here and there. Price level seems to be on a high side everywhere. Available seat heater modules do range between 80-180€ per unit. This is the price level here up north where heated seats is a standard feature. -tommi
  2. Hi Ed, Well documented project, thanks for sharing the link. -tommi
  3. Hi David, I have a "UK" version and running on PI with Bosch pump. The seat frames are US model seats and I'm going for them due to high head rest and originality. I did consider MX5 seats, but decided otherwise...now foams and covers already ordered. I have electric fan as well thus I need to double check the alternator capacity in case I'd go for heated seats, which is tempting thought at the moment. -tommi
  4. Hi fellow TR drivers, I'm currently rebuilding TR6 seats and they are now completely stripped and ready for soda blasting and painting. RH seat needs bit welding as visible in picture. Just wondering are there improvements for the frames I should consider prior to repainting, like strenghtening the structure/frames by welding additonal support elements, etc? I just want to make sure the frames are top condition (or even better than originals) before moving to next step i.e. installing diaphrams, webbings, foams and new covers. My car is just normal (summer) daily driver. Furthermore, given the climate in Finland, I'm thinking of installing seat heating elements as well to increase driving comfort for early spring and late autumn temperatures. Is that doable without changing alternator or making any other changes on the electrics? Any other hints or advices? Just reply Cheers, Tommi
  5. Hi, I tried with a cleaner already, no success --> looks like the unit needs to be taken apart. Must say the unit looks quite solid and bit surprised in case the unit can be taken apart. Will try that as next step. Thanks for the advices! -tommi
  6. Hi, Looks that I have an electric fault on my 1974 TR6: The signal/turn switch in steering column starts smoking when I'm starting the engine. The smoke is coming from the switch itself rather than from wiring. When this occurs the signal relay goes on although the switch is not on in any turn position. Is this a common problem? I believe the switch itself is worn out and needs to be replaced. Cheers, Tommi
  7. luukkala

    TR6 Boot Light

    Hi Mike, Not clear to me what do mean by better solution. Stonger light? Wider light spread? Unreliable switch? or maybe something else? Haven't done this myself, but just a thought as I'm planning for similar improvement (more light): What about changing a led bulb to standard light? Would provide more light (lumens) than the standard one. Also alternatively bypass the switch and take power from rear parking light i.e. always on when parking lights are on. Option 2: 12V led strip to one or both sides of the boot. You could do miracles with led strips given they take very little space and are really bright and you could almost hide them close to boot seal. Again power from the original switch or from parking lights (or from manual switch). Solution depends also how much you'd like to keep original look and feel. Cheers, Tommi
  8. Hi KC, They look really, really nice! Enjoy! -tommi
  9. Hi, Going back to the points would mean changing the whole distributor as mine is modified one. The little pin pointing up and holding points mechanism is taken out, therefore not an easy option as such (my distributor is actually from older TR6), just remembered. Peter, you mentioned heat impact... that would sound very logical as the problem comes after 30 min or so driving and like it happened last weekend, the problem was the worst when driving in city areas, low speeds, lots of stops. The Lumenition system has been in place for 15 years in my car. So far I've been pretty happy about it, and it has been very, very maintenance free, but could be indeed that it has reached the end of its life cycle. I'll check the spark plugs as well as suggested above, but I'm in doubt this would be the issue given the problem only comes when the engine is hot. But let's not leave any stones unturned... If I need to go for a new distributor, is the best option standard one for a standard engine like mine? I believe I can find another posts and discussions on that within this forum anyway. Tommi
  10. Hi, Asking some advice... The issue has been on for some time, but last weekend I just had enough of it... Starting my 1974 TR6 PI as cold, the engine works perfectly in all conditions: cold start normally choke on, and all cylinders firing perfectly in all driving conditions. But, when the engine is hot, say after 30 min driving, the nightmare begins: every time I stop in traffic lights or junction and let the engine to go idle, the engine works well in idle, but when then engaging the clutch and giving more revs to move on, the engine doesn't have all cylinders firing. When traffic light turns green, I need to stay stand still and collect revs before lifting the clutch and get going, even then the car sounds like tractor as not all cylinders are firing properly. Only after I have enough revs (roughly above 2500), all cylinders are fully firing, which usually happens after 100 meters leaving the traffic lights. Because of the issue, leaving traffic lights is not fast, nor smooth at all. Any advice where to start troubleshooting? Is this a problem wih dizzy or with the PI system, or something else? The engine works perfectly on idle in every conditions, even in hot. Similarly, no probs in higway speeds at all. Anyone else faced similar issue? Engine data: otherwise stock engine, but contacts changed to Lumenition Magnetronic system and engine head conveter to unleaded fuel. Cheers, Tommi
  11. luukkala

    Happy man

    "Because I'm happy... Clap along if you feel like a room without a roof...Because I'm happy... " as the famous song goes in radio. I've just finished TR6 gearbox repair, taking out badly worn out laygear, counter shaft, replacing all bearings and synchro cups, and put it togerher again. Yesterday evening I took my car out for a spin and the gearbox worked like a dream. I was lucky the gearbox failure did't cause any further damage as one of the needle-like bearings at countershaft was totally broken. Anyway, getting this repair done myself is a big thing to me as my profession is not even near to car mechanics, I've have owned my TR6 now for 15 years and learned by doing. I took this project as personal challenge as I could have taken the gearbox for someone else to fix - and explaining to family why we don't do a holiday trip this year... Now I got both. TR forum is a good source of information as here there's always somebody ready to help and share knowledge. Thank you all for that! Regards, Tommi
  12. Hi, Thanks for all advises. Roger's suggestion to take the engine and gbox out in one go is indeed tempting, however it means an overhaul to the engine as well once its out... and once the engine is out we are not far from full body off restoration. This is the usual story of starting to change spark plugs and ending up something totally bigger... Haven't really planned for it. Alan, my car is PI RHD -74 with J type overdrive. Cheers, Tommi
  13. Hi, How to acces the upper bolts of gearbox casing? Alan, a sketch of the wooden trolley would be nice. I'm not that level of a mechanic that I could repair a gearbox, however I do have a friend who can fix it if I can just get it out from the car. Br, Tommi
  14. Hi, I've got clanky and squaky noise from TR6 gearbox when gear is engaged... so looks that I need take it out to get fixed. Is it possible to take the gearbox out without lifting the whole engine up? All advices are welcome. Thanks in advance, Tommi
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