foster461
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Posts posted by foster461
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One other topic that I have hesitated to bring up due to the consequences is the puff of smoke from burning oil when I start the engine but not every time.
Basically a new engine with 900 miles on it since 2016. This problem was not there in 2017 but started sometime in year 2 or 3 after the rebuild.
Bottom is new hepolite pistons and liners, head got all new valves and guides. I took great care with the assembly but I did not personally refurb the head. My local machine shop did that.
Is this something I can narrow down with tests or will the source be too small to show up ?
https://ring.com/share/2833e265-c8fe-4a32-86a1-3cea9151abcd
Stan
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The glove box is in with very little drama. Only issue was the addition wiring that I had running along the heater support brace for fog/spot lamps and power outlets. They were preventing the glove box from sitting properly. Once that was sorted and I found the holes in the dash under the vinyl it was plain sailing.
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Always an adventure Miles. I'm going to tackle the glove box today. I have a new glove box and installation kit and a bucket of curse words ready to go.
Stan
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For the TR6 indicators to work all of the planets must be aligned.. All of the bulbs must work and be of the correct wattage and all of the connections and most important the grounds for the lamp housing must be good. If anything is less than perfect it either wont work at all, wont fash, wont flash at the correct cadence.
Stan
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Well it took me 5 years to get back to this but the rear trim panel is now fully installed. Thanks again for the help.
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When I did the Weber conversion I stuck another temperature sensor in that hole. It can serve as a backup in the event that the one on the other side fails. I didnt know it was the same thread as a spark plug. I think I would put an HT lead on that plug to really confuse people. 7 cylinder TR6 with one horizontal cylinder.
Stan
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David, the so-called matching numbers cars are theoretically more sought after than the bitzahs but it is debatable if it adds much more value. If you had two identical cars the one with all original bits would likely win but a crappy car with original engine etc would not be preferred to an otherwise presentable car with a non original engine. In my opinion.
Stan
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Rob makes an excellent point. This pusher fan will be impeding air flow when it is not running and will likely only come on during hot days sitting in traffic. I'm still using the generator so probably cant afford to have the fan on more than necessary.
Something to ponder.
Stan
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Another fan question.. Just looking at a single brand like Spal, they have several different options for a 12" pusher fan. Are more blades better than fewer blades and are curved blades better than straight blades ? .
Stan
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What's the deal with the horizontal spark plug ?
Stan
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Thanks Rob, that is very encouraging. I am not yet mentally prepared to take off the apron but I dont mind tackling the grill and duct. The weather here has been hot for most of July and the TR3 does not like sitting in traffic on 90+ degree days.
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One of my regrets when I restored the TR3a was not fitting an electric cooling fan to assist the mechanical fan. I wonder if I can fit a small 12 inch (so it doesnt block the starting handle hole) pusher fan without taking off the front apron ?. If I remove the grill and the cardboard duct is there enough room to get a fan in and attach it to the radiator ?.
Stan
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A very warm welcome B&T to both the club and the forum.
Stan
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It has to be perfectly aligned. You need an octopus to help. They can jiggle it up and down, left and right, apply forward pressure and rotate the flange all the the same time.
Stan
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That is just AWESOME.
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Get a big beach towel to fold and place over the folded top before you put the cover on. It will protect the window and help fill out the cover so it looks neater.
Stan
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They did a cat scan.
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If you do a search of the forum you will see many of us have replaced that piece of junk with the Four Seasons Everco 74648 cable operated heater control valve, all brass. It will likely never fail. We used to get them really cheap a few years ago but even at around $30 they are still worth it.
It is a direct replacement for the BL valve with just a slight mod needed for the cable connection.
Stan
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Probably as good as many that left the factory.
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Richard, show us some pictures of the problem you ate trying to fix. Fyi i used doors from a different car and repro hinges. Nothing fit. Even with cutting, welding, grinding and lead filling I still had to elongate the hinge holes on the A post and door sides to get everything more or less aligned. It took a few mins with a round file to elongate them and add back the countersink.
Stan
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Or find a nut that will just slip over the stud and weld the nut to the stud getting lots of heat into it. Then just unwind the whole shebang with a spanner.
Stan
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The cage nuts in the A post are buried in a channel formed by the A post and the side of the footwell. There is so little room the tabs on the cage nuts overlap. They are very difficult to access even with the front wing off.
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I would have the MIG and grinder on standby. That whole area is under-engineered and prone to stress cracks and rusted out pins. Once you get the diff off give the bottom of the brackets a good clean and check for cracks. You can box in the inner sides of the front brackets pretty easily and I think that would be better than doing nothing to help strengthen the diff mounts.
Stan
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Richard, I think you are being a bit optimistic about the ability to relocate the cage nuts.
How about elongating the holes in the hinge so you can move the door ? If you adjust the holes on both the A post side and the door side you will not need to enlarge them much in addition to any natural wiggle room.
Stan
Rear bulkhead trim panel bottom attachment - post 60K TR3A
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Items 55, 56 and 57 on this moss diagram. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/interior/dashboards-consoles/dashboard-tr2-3a-1953-62.html
They show the L bracket in a horizontal orientation making some people think it goes into the bulkhead but it mounts vertically into a slotted hole in the heater support brace. My repro glove box had a hole for it.
To be honest I dont know that it is necessary because in my case the rear corner of the glove box was resting pretty much on the brace bar and I had to work to get that L bracket in place and I was in half a mind to leave it off but I realized if I posted a picture with no screw I would be hearing about it from somebody.
Stan