JochemsTR
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Posts posted by JochemsTR
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11 minutes ago, FatJon said:
The pencil coils are designed to go in a hole which supports them, like on a modern 16v engine.
Yes. I am specifically looking for these. I have seen them on a TR6. It actually had a bracket along the cylinder head to mount them. I just do not recall the car or owner. I would like to avoid the HT Leads.
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Any EFI Drivers amongst us using CoP?
If so, can you share brand and article with me? also a picture of the installation, I assume a bracket to hold the coils in place is required.
Jochem
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1 hour ago, jr2 said:
Hello, remind us, why did you end up with ECUmaster control unit? Its price point is on part with other systems.
here in germany , MS and Ecumaster are well available. My seller has both of them and advised on Ecumaster. Ecumaster is a professional device, superior to MS. Housing and connectors meet all IP and EMC requirements. Software is included with all its options and programmable safety features and easy to use. Feel free to compare the ECUs yourself. I am glad I followed his advise and happy ever since.
This is my personal opinion. Nothing more, nothing less. I know there are lots out there being fully satisfied with MS and Emerald. I even had my test setup running with Speeduino. Does the job too. Like MS, these are DIY ECUs. When a customer wants MS, I install MS. When a customer asks for my recommendation, I recommend Ecumaster.
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I am just done fitting an Ecumaster Black EFI System on a customer's car.
Wenn engine is done, and the manifolds are modified, it takes me about 45 hours for Fuel, Ignition, Electrical, Wiring and routing of Wires. This is ofcourse without running and fine-tuning of the base-map.
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Be grateful its only few drops.
In any other case, drop the sump. New gasket with some silikon sealant on both sides of the gasket. The 2 bolts in front and back should be glued in, tighten with a nut.
Jochem -
6 minutes ago, unclepete said:
I have a Bahstuck manifold and have aquired Jenvey style throttle bodies, bearing in mind I have, in effect, 6 separate inlet manifolds, how do I rig up a connection to the fuel pressure regulator?
you still need a fuelrail. or do you have the heritage ones? The fuelpressure regulator goes at the end of the fuel rail. Jenvey sells them too.
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14 minutes ago, John L said:
I'm hoping I can pull the cam out without having to take the oil pump out, can anybody confirm please?
just the driveshaft.
16 minutes ago, John L said:I know I will have to hold up the lifters some how, I think cloths pegs spring to mind, or perhaps O rings might do it? I don't really want to take the head off again with all that it incurs.
I would love to see you do this without removing the head. No joke. I hope it works, feel free to share and document here.
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There you go.
The components are readily available. big advantage, since there is no return line, and no circulation back to the fuel tank, therefore, no heating of the fuel in the tank and no increase in fuel vapor pressure. The biggest issue with a returnless system is the monitoring of the fuel pressure and keeping it controlled. Since running on min. 4 Bar, you need EV14 injectors rated 160 ml/min.
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17 hours ago, unclepete said:
Is there an aftermarket ECU on the market that handles this?
ecumaster
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Harry, I assume the servo's pushrod been set to the mc accordingly?
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2 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:
Like you I am yet to find a suitable donor disc that can be re-drilled or machined down.
The ECB discs were 20 mm wide.
A replacement is unlikely. My discs are 24 mm which require new log spacing, os diameter and is diameter mod. -
19 hours ago, Richard71 said:
Hi Jochems,
Do you provide a service for the throttle body conversion?
Richard.
Hi Richard, yes, but shipping from UK and back will add significant to the overall cost. As Matt notes, Single TB may be the cheaper way to go.
For further questions, please PN.
Regards
Jochem
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This is the kit I sold in germany/austria.
I installed a normal disc and a vented disc parallel on my car. a 50% temperature reduction.
This is for me the most significant front brake upgrade you can do. 4 piston calipers etc. won't help you and not necessary. The TR brakes are easy upto 200 HP.
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I rebuild using CP Bodies. For the fuelrail, I build them myself. Some customers like the extruded aluminium version, but that is not my favorit.
Bodies are machined, bearings installed and modified to assume MAP. I keep the original throttle discs since they have the best fit. The aftermarket ones are sh%$§&t! I like the original PI look.
Single TB? That would work also. Both systems have their Pros and Cons.
What is the recommendation? ..... recommend a BMW to a Mercedes driver and vice versa......no chance.
In my opinion, for the "normal" EFI driver, you will not recognize the difference. especially when your engine is not overly tuned.
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on higher RPM/Load you want the injection angle changed towards spraying on a closed intake valve. so you need a RPM/Load/Angle Table.
The best calculations are worth nothing if you cannot verify this on a rolling road and have someone experienced looking over your shoulder. This type of tuning is not something to take on lightly. There is no room for subjective interpretation.
For a TR6, too much effort and time.
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The sequential injection requires carefull consideration of the injection angle. Not something to be taken lightly. As I mentioned before, I have yet to see any hard evidence, this bringing any benefit to a TR6 engine. Noticeable maybe in Idle and Cruise Consumption, again, I doubt noticeable on a TR6. On acceleration, all Pros are gone. But please show me otherwise. My video shows how smooth an Idle can be done, even with a race cam.
My advise to @unclepete start easy, work yourself into the matter, upgrade as it goes. Trust me, with EFI you will not be dissappointed.
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Ian, the BT and Tune use the TDC.
With a Stroboskop you can verify the values, if they are off, you may have an issue with your damper. If they match, you need to look somewhere else. -
9 minutes ago, iani said:
the instructions for earlier 123 units do tell you to install at the static timing whereas the Tune+ tells you to install at TDC
Because the “normal” 123 has preconfigured curves and depends on the static value as the 123Tune does not. So setting at TDC is sufficient and program your 1 and 2 curves accordingly.
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Pete, self learning or closed loop do not have anything to do with sequential or injection angle. I am surprised, reading here on emerald and their rolling road, that no one here has tried and activate the sequential or injection angle. Since these can ONLY be optimized on a rolling road.
Setting up your basic VE Table may be done on a cross country road, in my opinion it will give you a 97% solution. For many amongst us, sufficient. I did my basic installation on a rolling road. -
5 hours ago, CK's TR6 said:
Why not use sequential then?
Too much effort for no significant change. One seems to forget, these are 50 year old engines. I would love to see the Dyno Curve with and without sequential.
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This is my idle video. seems pretty stable to me....no sequential.
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2 hours ago, john.r.davies said:
2800cc?? Is that possible? Without offsetting the bores?
yes, rare but possible without offset. rare in the matter, the bores are ultrasonic inspected and have a good consistent wall after bore.
I have a 2.7 with close upto 190. 200 can be achieved with a good head.
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I have no doubt, that when experienced, the wheel can be perfectly statically balanced. However, does this automatically mean, the wheel is also dynamically balanced?
Fuel Line Size for EFI
in TR6 Forum
Posted
5/16“ INSIDE diam is fine