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Posts posted by SteveB21
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Hi Smeggie
Another option is the Continental Contact CT22 165/80 R15 - similar price to the T-Tracs when I fitted mine. I would definitely recommend going back to 165 from the 185 - one of the best "upgrades" I've done on the car!
Cheers
Steve
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Thanks Mike - I always wondered what set the upper oil level, but never thought to ask!
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Steve
I've just put my rods back after a similar rattle fixing session - I used heat-shrink tubing to do exactly the same as Ed on the middle and end sections of the rods.
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Peter - as Ian says, maker sure you get the right size seal - hopefully the attached picture and this previous topic should help:
https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/13470-position-of-door-seal-rubber/
Cheers
Steve
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Well I've tried meths & talcum powder, also Autoglym vinyl & rubber cleaner - no success, so I've refitted the old seal! Will see if the new ones harden up sitting on the shelf, or maybe try the NOS ones Revington sell at some point.
Thanks
Steve
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Hi Waldi
Slightly off-topic but how & where did you install the AFR sensor?
Thanks
Steve
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Hi Andy
Mine is 72 car and I know the UK cars did not have hazard warning switches - however, a lot of people replace the gauge lights rheostat with an after-market hazard warning unit, which doesn't look out of place (note my ammeter and fuel gauges are the wrong way round - something I plan to fix one day...)
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Colin
I have my door trim off at the moment (but not doing anything with the lock) - would it hep if I took a photo of the lock from the inside for you?
Cheers
Steve
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Thanks Roger - will give it a go.
Cheers
Steve
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Hi all
I've just replaced the window channels and the inner & outer weatherstrips/seals on my driver's side door. Both seals went on & fitted OK first time (thanks to all the helpful advice I found in previous forum posts on the subject), but the rubber external one is much more flexible than the one I replaced - initially I thought this would help with sealing against the window, but it is so flexible that it just curls in when I lower the window! Hopefully the pictures make it clear what is happening. Has anyone else experienced this and got any suggestions to fix it, or suggestions of a source of better/stiffer new external seals - or do they all come from the same place nowadays? The new seals came from Moss and I will go in to see them at some point to see what they think as well.
Thanks in advance.
Steve
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Chris
https://www.rewiresecurity.co.uk/db2-self-install-diy-gps-tracker
I have the DB-1 lite tracker from these guys in my 6 and find it works very well and their support team very helpful on the phone and on email. I use their app on my phone.
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Sean
Yes - it fits into the original H frame holes, just like the original radio. The aerial is a magnetic DAB aerial with SMB connector, like the one in attached link:
I ran the cable under the carpet into the boot and it is thin enough to fit past the boot seal when in use. The aerial is about 30cm tall. Best to check the SMB connector is still the right one for the radio. I found Classic Car Stereo very helpful over the phone.
Hope the attached pictures help.
Cheers
Steve
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I installed the Classic 200 from Classic Car Stereo a couple of years ago and I've been very pleased with it - DAB, Bluetooth, etc. The only advice I would give is to install an external aerial - the screen mounted one that comes with the radio isn't up to much. I use a magnetic one mounted on the boot, so I didn't have to make any holes in the bodywork and can hide it away when not in use.
Cheers
Steve
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+1 for PIAA blades fitted to my 6 - got mine from Revington. Hopefully won't be needed for the IWE this weekend....
Cheers
Steve
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Hi KOB
I have fitted LED stop/tail lights to replace my standard bulbs, plus fitted an LED bar to my roll cage using stick-on velcro pads and others have commented on how effective the set up is for both day & night use. The LED bar on the roll cage does show through the rear window with the hood up and I get very little internal dazzle off the window.
The LED bar was from car builder solutions - I trimmed the plastic lugs off with a Stanley knife:
https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/28-led-high-level-brake-light-235mm
I tucked the wiring under the roll bar vinyl and took a feed off the brake light wire in the boot.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Mark
If you PM me I can send you some pics. Definitely some of engine bay and I may have some of the run in the boot and down the passenger side somewhere.
cheers
Steve
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I have a 79-88 degC thermoswitch in the bottom hose stainless steel tube and it does the job with a Revotec "push" fan, even on days like today in stationary traffic.
Moss IM50120
Cheers
Steve
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I agree with Stewart - my CP didn't have them originally, but a PO fitted them - an easy job and every little helps on today's busy roads! Rimmers do the bulb holder AEU1745 and I'm sure others do.
Cheers
Steve
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I’ve just checked the spanner’s fit and it’s good. It also has the benefit of having a slightly angled handle, rather than the flat crescent spanner, so well worth it.
Cheers
Steve
Sun Visor
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Paul & Michael
My grey cells kicked into action and I recalled that I had previously posted on this - here is the link with photos:
Michael - I didn't have to send my old visor in - I could see the John Skinner type was a match from their website. A pair of new visors cost me £85.37 inc. VAT and P&P back in 2017.
Hope that helps.
Steve