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Everything posted by ed_h

  1. This is mine, and I think its close to factory. Ed
  2. So, was there more than one variant of these light assemblies? Mine had two reflectors. Ed
  3. The three black grommets in the triangle formation are the mounting points for the bottle on earlier cars. On later cars with the longer intake manifold, the bottle is moved outboard (to the left in the pic). The top left original hole is used, plus the two new ungrommeted holes seen in the pic. Ed
  4. ed_h

    Coolant Plug

    It seems pretty common that the block drain hole is blocked on these engines. Consensus seems to be that it is left over casting sand. Ed
  5. Andy-- I decided (sort of abitrarily) that all loads over 5 amps would use a relay. Horns, lights, starter solenoid, ignition and rad fan are all easily in that category. It's a matter of philosophy, just like there are some folks who dont want fuses in their headlight or ignition circuits. If you fuse the line to the starter solenoid, it wouldn't need to be nearly 100 amps. Fusing the actual line from battery to starter would be unusual, and might have to be bigger than 100 amps. Looks like you are thinking it through pretty nicely. Ed
  6. Yeah, I was using SS wire, which may have been part of the problem. Thank providence for grinders. Ed
  7. Understood, Andy. There is still great benefit to a custom harness with expanded use of fuses and relays. Are you familliar with carbuilder.com? They have a range of modularized fuse and relay blocks. Google British Standard BS-AU7, and you will get other versions of the wiring color codes (hopefully equivalent to the one you have). Ed
  8. Before you commit to using the stainless, try welding it. In my experience (which isn't that extensive in stainless), it can be harder to weld. Ed
  9. Inspired! Wish I'd thought of that. Ed
  10. That's interesting. Didn't know that. I always assumed that the odd double-back of the release cable was because It was moved from the right to the left side for LHD cars. Maybe the latch mechanism was borrowed from another car where the cable approached from the right side. Ed
  11. Andy-- I would also encourage you to consider building a loom from scratch. I did this for my TR6, since I added a few additional devices that a stock loom would not have included. I was able to harvest quite a lot of wire from the original harness, but also had to buy some new wire. I stuck with the original color code, and had no trouble getting the colors I needed. I didn't use a "pin board" as many do, but just ran the wires in the car, tying them at critical points. Then took the cable out to wrap it and add terminals. One of the main advantages of a custom harness
  12. Looking at my pic, I see that I may have the left and right labels reversed. The slot at far right is for the bonnet release bracket, which is on the left side (for a LHD car). Ed
  13. Some grades of stainless are more machinable than others. Use a good quality, sharp die, and if it is adjustable, yes, do it in stages. A worn or cheap die probably wont cut it. Ed
  14. Here is a pic of the templates I used to make those panels. I actually enlarged and simplified the shapes as shown by the cross-hatched areas. Original panels were a cross between hardboard and cardboard. I used a plastic material for the panels. Ed
  15. About halfway down this page: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-119/TR6-119.html Ed
  16. The hard part of drilling out a broken stud is getting the hole started in the center of what is probably an irregular surface. If the stub of the stud is proud of the surrounding material, you can make a simple drill guide that has a recess to fit over the stub. Ed
  17. If you try the drilling method, drill a pilot hole, then use a left hand drill bit. Sometimes It will back the broken stub out. Ed
  18. I have read that there can sometimes be enough residual magnetism in the field cores that the alternator can bootstrap itself without external field current. Certainly can't count on it, though. Ed
  19. Check battery voltage with your volt meter with the engine not running. Should be just a little over 12 volts. Ed
  20. Solid state has indeed come a long way. From single clunky bipolar devices to today's microprocessors that can have tens of BILLIONS of MOS transistors in the package. I've also used the charged capacitor trick to revive shorted NiCad cells, in which case I think it is nickel whiskers. Ed
  21. Find a drain cock that has a snout on it to attach flexible tubing. This leads the drained fluid safely away from the starter, and neatly into a container. Ed
  22. ed_h

    Rocker shaft

    Interesting info there on the hardness of Moss rocker tips. Obvious questions: What is the hardness of original rocker tips? And if the originals are ground say 0.010", does the hardness change? Ed
  23. ed_h

    Rocker shaft

    I think the originals had welch type plugs. You can drill one of them, then knock them out from the inside with a long rod. Ed
  24. Not sure if your problem is the same, but on the ones I bought, the Velcro was too wide. This was from a US supplier. I ended up just making my own: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-100/TR6-100.html Ed
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