Radio noise suppression

[Jersey Royal]

Oh no!! What now?

 

I'm beginning to realise I have bought a lemon

 

I have the white from the ignition switch, the red I don't know where that comes from. A brown dangling loose and would have been connected to the spare - terminal.

 

So you think this isn't wired up correctly?

 

I don't have any instructions for the ignition system, so have no idea what goes where!

 

Trfella,

 

From what i have seen of your car so far, and that lovely engine bay it aint a lemon.

 

These are small problems that we have all had in one way or another, and the good thing there is always support

and advise on the forum.

 

Have you got a Tr6 Wiring diagram for the car.

 

http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

 

And i have just googled for some wiring instructions for your ignition system.

 

http://www.lowflying.dk/images/PMA50ins.pdf

 

I am not familar with Lumention, so dont know if yours is the same madel but it should have some markings on the silver control unit.

 

Dont Panic Mr Mannering

 

Cheers

 

Guy

Edited November 19, 2008 by Jersey Royal

[trfella]

Trfella,

 

From what i have seen of your car so far, and that lovely engine bay it aint a lemon.

 

These are small problems that we have all had in one way or another, and the good thing there is always support

and advise on the forum.

 

Have you got a Tr6 Wiring diagram for the car.

 

http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

 

And i have just googled for some wiring instructions for your ignition system.

 

http://www.lowflying.dk/images/PMA50ins.pdf

 

I am not familar with Lumention, so dont know if yours is the same madel but it should have some markings on the silver control unit.

 

Dont Panic Mr Mannering

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

Thanks Guy

 

I have the Brown Bible and Haynes manual, but nothing for the ignition system...until now

[88V8]

Depending on the age of your Lumenition, the wire from the coil neg to the power module could be brown as per Guy's PDF, or purple as Neil said (Lumenition rather sweetly describe it as 'violet').

 

Why do you have a dangling wire to the coil pos? Could be that at one time it had a ballast coil, in which case it would have had two live feeds. History leaves footprints over 30-odd years, don't worry too much about it.

 

BTW, the Lumenition instructions say that suppression can be fitted between coil pos and earth, usually 1.5 - 2.0 mfd, I think you said you've already done that.

 

When you fit the suppressed HT leads, I reckon your problem will vanish, then you can listen to Terry Wogan in peace.

 

Ivor

[trfella]

I do hope the leads will sort things out. I cannot believe genuine NGK leads were fitted to this car in 2003, and weren't suppressed!!

 

Anyway, they should be with me on Saturday, so we'll see.

 

I am going to supress the fuel pump, and have taken everything out of the boot - boy, has the back of the car sprung up without the spare

 

I have always had a whiff of fuel from the boot, so thought I could attend to that whist in there. I cannot find the source

 

Looking at the picture, what on earth is the cannister on the right - a CAV filter?

 

Does the plumbing look ok from the picture? I find the cloth and tissue protecting the pipes a tad dubious to say the least!

 

[Jersey Royal]

I do hope the leads will sort things out. I cannot believe genuine NGK leads were fitted to this car in 2003, and weren't suppressed!!

 

Anyway, they should be with me on Saturday, so we'll see.

 

I am going to supress the fuel pump, and have taken everything out of the boot - boy, has the back of the car sprung up without the spare

 

I have always had a whiff of fuel from the boot, so thought I could attend to that whist in there. I cannot find the source

 

Looking at the picture, what on earth is the cannister on the right - a CAV filter?

 

Does the plumbing look ok from the picture? I find the cloth and tissue protecting the pipes a tad dubious to say the least!

 

Tr Fella,

 

The canister on the right (blue/red) is a bullet filter, have same on mine. Theres a paper element inside that will require changing, say once a year. I generaly change mine if i have planned a long french trip.

 

The pipe with the insulation stuff on it connects another filter to the Prv (pressure relief valve) i would imagine the insulation has been put on to reduce any vibration in the pipework. Cant tell if you have a stop tap on the bottom off your tank, but would be worth fitting.

The Black cannister is the bosch pump.

 

Petrol smells well you will have job if you want to totally illiminate. Check all connections are tight, if you wipe around a fitting so its clean, sprinkle on a good dusting of talc, drive it for a few days and you will be able to tell if you any slight seepage from those fittings.

 

Any old rubber, returns to fuel tank and neck on tank should be checked for splits bad joints or replaced if they look iffy, its possible that incorrect rubber tubing might have been used, leaded as opposed to unleaded.

 

The other area is the gasket to the fuel sender on the top of the tank.

 

I have changed all this on mine and still get a slight wiff, not as bad as it used to be.

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

All looks ok

Edited November 20, 2008 by Jersey Royal

[trfella]

Tr Fella,

 

The canister on the right (blue/red) is a bullet filter, have same on mine. Theres a paper element inside that will require changing, say once a year. I generaly change mine if i have planned a long french trip.

 

The pipe with the insulation stuff on it connects another filter to the Prv (pressure relief valve) i would imagine the insulation has been put on to reduce any vibration in the pipework. Cant tell if you have a stop tap on the bottom off your tank, but would be worth fitting.

The Black cannister is the bosch pump.

 

Petrol smells well you will have job if you want to totally illiminate. Check all connections are tight, if you wipe around a fitting so its clean, sprinkle on a good dusting of talc, drive it for a few days and you will be able to tell if you any slight seepage from those fittings.

 

Any old rubber, returns to fuel tank and neck on tank should be checked for splits bad joints or replaced if they look iffy, its possible that incorrect rubber tubing might have been used, leaded as opposed to unleaded.

 

The other area is the gasket to the fuel sender on the top of the tank.

 

I have changed all this on mine and still get a slight wiff, not as bad as it used to be.

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

All looks ok

 

Fantastic idea re the talcum powder Guy! I'll give that a go.

 

Is there any reason why I have two filters? The cannister above the pump is also a filter, so why the other? The blue on that other cannister is electrical tape by the way.

 

So reading between the lines, I will need two filters then? The Bosch one, I assume, is a straight swap cannister and all, with the blue/red cannister being dismantled via the unions and the paper element replaced, or would that be the whole thing too?

 

Sorry if I sound thick, but I haven't worked on a car since 1991! I'm a bit rusty (if you pardon the pun) to say the least

[Jersey Royal]

Fantastic idea re the talcum powder Guy! I'll give that a go.

 

Is there any reason why I have two filters? The cannister above the pump is also a filter, so why the other? The blue on that other cannister is electrical tape by the way.

 

So reading between the lines, I will need two filters then? The Bosch one, I assume, is a straight swap cannister and all, with the blue/red cannister being dismantled via the unions and the paper element replaced, or would that be the whole thing too?

 

Sorry if I sound thick, but I haven't worked on a car since 1991! I'm a bit rusty (if you pardon the pun) to say the least

 

 

Tr Fella,

 

The Bullet filters come in blue or red, yours must be red, why the tape i dont know. I beleive prestige injection sell the bullet fillters, have a look at there set up on their site

 

Your system and set up looks almost exactly like prestiges.

 

http://www.prestigeinjection.net/

 

The bullet protects the pump from tank debris, and the filter on the other site, well i have always wondered about the purpose of it but it must just catch any very fine material getting through to the Metering Unit. There is however another fine plastic filter inside the union where the fuel enters the Metering Unit. As the bullet catch all the larger debris , there is probably nothing in the other filter, to be honest i havent changed mine in the last five years.

 

The Bullet undos from one end , and you just need to remove old check for crud, clean out any left touching the inside surfaces, and put in new cardboard filter, off you go.

 

Check if you have a on off valve at bottom of tank.

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

Oh yeah , another method to check fittigs is to wrap with electrical tape, leave it on for a couple of trips. When you undo the tape , if the adhesive has gone, well you have a slight leak and not necessarily liquid it could be vapour. The fuel/vapours disolve the adhesive.

Edited November 20, 2008 by Jersey Royal

[trfella]

I'll have another dig in there tomorrow and check if I have a tap. I don't think I have though.

 

Interestingly, both my pump install, and that on the website you posted do not seem to have any rubber damping within the bracket as per the restoration guide.

 

Boy, there is a lot of filtering going on in there! It's a wonder that the car runs at all

[trfella]

No tap installed at the tank

 

My leads, cap and arm arrived today, so will give them a whirl tomorrow. I'll do it the methodical way as suggested and see if that stops the RF issue.

[trfella]

For some reason I cannot get the new leads on the spark plugs. They will not push home at all with a click

 

The ends are NGK suppressed, but the rubber is shorter than my old ones, so doesn't cover the ceramic as much.

 

I'm worried to use too much force

Edited November 23, 2008 by trfella

[88V8]

For some reason I cannot get the new leads on the spark plugs. They will not push home at all with a click

Some of mine click some don't.

Try with an old plug at the bench (if you can find the bench)

 

PS fuel tap - Malcolm (Prestige) doesn't fit taps, he says it's just something else to leak, not sure I agree but that's what he says.

 

Ivor

Edited November 23, 2008 by 88V8

[trfella]

Well, changed the cap and arm and no clicking from the radio speaker, and no noise on the house TV picture! Whoopee! Car started and ran smoother, so a right result there. Left the engine running for 20 mins, and noticed a feint clicking on the speaker after about 10 minutes, which got worse until I switched off.

 

So I fitted the plug leads (I had to take the screw ends off each plug for the leads to fit!). Started the car up, and still the same noise as before, although hardly any interference on the TV in the house.

 

Seems as though fitting the cap and arm did the trick, but as wear took place on the new electrodes of the cap, the flipping clicking came back.

 

I'm disappointed - what now?

 

I have just received some new BP6ES plugs in the post, so will fit these.

 

Looks like this damn car is destined not to have a working radio.

 

 

ETA - Ivor, did you get my PM?

Edited November 24, 2008 by trfella

[RogerH]

Hi Trfella,

have you got a good in-line power suppressor on the +12V lead into the radio. You may now be suffering noise on the power lead rather than the aerial.

I think you started off saying you had LW/MW radio if so then the signal you are receiving is very small due to the small size of your aerial.

Wave lengths for FM are measured in a few feet (Radio one is about 9ft), the same programme on MW is 1500Mtrs (I think).

 

Rgds

 

Roger

[trfella]

Hi Trfella,

have you got a good in-line power suppressor on the +12V lead into the radio. You may now be suffering noise on the power lead rather than the aerial.

I think you started off saying you had LW/MW radio if so then the signal you are receiving is very small due to the small size of your aerial.

Wave lengths for FM are measured in a few feet (Radio one is about 9ft), the same programme on MW is 1500Mtrs (I think).

 

Rgds

 

Roger

 

Hi Roger,

 

I only have an in-line choke, not a suppressor. Do you think I should fit one in addition?

 

The radio ground is from the H frame, and I was thinking about taping the aperature up so the radio chassis doesn't ground on this, and fitting another ground linked to a good solid part of the car body/chassis. Does this sound like an idea?

 

The Bosch pump still isn't suppressed, but doesn't seem to interfere with the radio when it is running with ignition on. It is only when the engine is running that I have the problem, which to me and others on here points to HT.

 

So in summary, there is an improvement with regard to TV picture white noise, but the clicking on my radio speaker is still there, albeit slightly less than before, and only with the engine running.

 

I might add that I live at the foot of a big hill, and signal strength for TV and radio is very poor at the best of times. I also haven't trimmed the aerial to the radio yet, but am able to pick up some LW and MW stations. Obviously, I get an improvement when the flourescent garage lights are off, which is a given.

Edited November 24, 2008 by trfella

[RogerH]

Hi TRFella,

the aerial tuning could well give an improvement. Halfords do some good in-line suppressors but like most electrical things their effect is sometimes doubtful but they are not expensive.

 

Roger

[trfella]

I'll give those a go.

 

The ones I fitted were OE BL circa 1973 NOS, so they look the part in the engine bay. But I have run out, so will pay Halfords a visit.

 

Changed the plugs, and the engine runs like a dream now - still the slightly lumpy idle typical of a CP engine.

 

Still have my clicks though