Bob Brennan Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Is there a reference section on the Forum where I can learn how to rebuild the rear cylinders to switch to silicone brake fluid (DOT 5)? My only source of info is Haynes and the Moss Triumph catalog. Haynes states it is necessary to remove the brake shoes . My problem is I can't find the "brake shoe steady pin" that Haynes mentions. At the 12:00 and 6:00 positions, I have what Moss calls (#60) STEADY POSTS on the inside of the back plate. No (#56,57,58) steady pin. So I'm in a quandry as to proceed. If someone could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 If you're planning to switch over to Silicone fluid, you should change all the rubber in the system, Brake hoses, seals in the master cylinders, front brake caliper seals, rear brake cylinder seals and the clutch hose plus the seal in the slave cylinder. This is to ensure compatibility of the new silicone fluid with the new rubber parts. Normally this is done during a full restoration. For now, you may want to reconsider the switch and save yourself a lot of trouble right now when you should be thinking of getting it running for all the drives you will want to do during the summer. I changed all the rubber during my restoration from 1987 to 1990 and have used silicone fluid since then (94,000 miles). http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/pho....php/photo/1919 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 If you're planning to switch over to Silicone fluid, you should change all the rubber in the system, Sound advice. I think it may be enough to remove and wash all the existing seals, but if you are doing that, it makes more sense to replace them all anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gnotte Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 from your TS24528 number you should have the steady post type (#61 not #60 as you mention), you have the earlier type and to remove it you just have to push on the spring and turn the front cup washer 90° in any direction, this will release the pin, beware that only the whasher should be rotated not the pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted March 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 from your TS24528 number you should have the steady post type (#61 not #60 as you mention), you have the earlier type and to remove it you just have to push on the spring and turn the front cup washer 90° in any direction, this will release the pin, beware that only the whasher should be rotated not the pin. Perhaps I'm not looking in thr right place, but I can't find that washer. Is it (as shown in Haynes) in the center of the shoe? If so, I don't have one. The inside centers of my shoes are solid, without holes. The other components have been re-rubbered, just the rear brakes remain. I didn't want to invest any time or money into paintwork without first switching to silicone. Seems like a no-brainer to me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 I'll try to attach a photo of a sketch I made of my rear brake linings in 1988 when I had new linings bonded to these shoes. I don't remember if these are the original shoes - if not - they are just like the originals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted March 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 I'll try to attach a photo of a sketch I made of my rear brake linings in 1988 when I had new linings bonded to these shoes. I don't remember if these are the original shoes - if not - they are just like the originals. That is my brake shoe Don. Now, how do I get it off? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 (edited) Like yours, mine has a 10" drum (TS 27489 LO). There is no dished or cupped washer or a pin. They are held in place by the return springs. You pull on the end of the springs with a pair of long-nose pliers. Or you can force upward with a sturdy screwdriver levering under the inner edge of the show and against to outside rim of the hub. This will stretch the springs - so be careful when it flips sideways out of the slots where it is sitting. The photo shows the left side - driver's side in North America. Edited March 24, 2007 by Don Elliott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Brennan Posted March 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 God bless you Don. The shoes popped right off! Easy when you know how, isn't it? I almost went blind looking for "hold down pegs" and "cupped washers". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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