jellison Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 (edited) The racers engine that has taken a huge amount of energy / cash and time to put together finall got started yesterday. Will get a sound / video on Google / Utube for the full effect. Looking forward to getting it run in and racing it. Hopefully up around the 260bhp mark, like one or two others we have to try to beat! http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.a...=303303&h=0 Edited January 22, 2007 by jellison Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 Looks like another vote of confidence for Webers! I just wonder how many would use them if they didn't have to be calibrated but I grant that it helps preserve the mystique Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robgeev Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 Not much space for luggage in the boot! Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davehop Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 Another evil-looking creation that's gonna be a lot of fun! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robgeev Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 Looks like another vote of confidence for Webers! I just wonder how many would use them if they didn't have to be calibrated but I grant that it helps preserve the mystique Tom, mine came back from being set up last week, initially they were running too lean, but this was adjusted apparently at the expense of top end. NO WAY! He the rejetted and seems pleased with the result, they now deliver a very constant rush of power-I'm quite shocked at the smoothness of the torque delivery, however, if accelerating slowly upto about 1700 rpm, I get the odd spit back, feels like it is wrong untill it gets onto the cam, after which performance is lovely. Should I be bothered? This is more apparent when the engine is cold. Perhaps I will run it a while longer before trying to do anything-it's only done about 40 miles since last rebuild-remember my sticking follower and melted piston incidents? Got to admit that after having driven the 4 at the weekend, the 6 knocks it into a cocked hat in many ways-performance, handling+refinement. It's just not as pretty though! Just have to choose my occasions with care. Rob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted January 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 Full spec is crazy! (mind not as mad as my 4! - elsewhere on here for sale). But then if you want to win! Spec is (summarised!), DKE Steel Billet Crank (with Dummy mains), steel Rods, Forged 2.6 pistons, big valve ported head, much higher CR, fluid harmonic damper (big cash but they need it for well over 7000rpm), alloy water pump hosing, baffled sump, V8 engine mounts, Triple webbers 45's (ITG Filter kit) these will take some setting up (but should be close emough to run it in on), Gearbox is a Pete Cox job with Claose Ratio gearset and revavled ultra fast aching OD (this is the best thing ever - having done 3 or 4 races last year in my 4 with the same spec box). Tilton 7.25 " Twin Plate Race clutch with hydralic internal release bearing. Brakes 315mm!! solid rotoars on ally bells with AP Race spec (not road converted) 4 pots custon made by BG, retain servos and have in front of this front / rear brake adjuster system, radially vented rear drums. Rear teloscopic kitted shocked, race springs and SPax (for now) dampers, very trick trailing arm set up (keeping that a bit secret), fill stainless 6 in to 2 into 1 (I think) exhaust system. The list just goes on...................... It is not going to be one of the stripped to the bone type races so will not be the lightest (I'll have to make up for that!), but fiber bonnet, boot and front wings (still have aerial on rear steel wings! - might put that up for a laugh for races. Race seat, one off dash, mat get a pic this weekend), 4kg electric Frire system. 205/60 x 15 Yoko 32 race tyres and 21 spec swet same size of Compomotive ML and MO rims. Not sure if running a fiber top or aeroscreen (my preference and cheaper)- but mean have to remove softtop and screen to race. Have raced it (when in Roadsports spoc wityhs screen and soft top on an off (beat vertually all it came across in its class) - but at the front think we need to either have a full hard top of no top for best aero. Oh ya Salsibury LSD with 3.9 in at presnet but likley put in a 4.1 (was even thinking 4.3 - but have been told that ain't happening! as father will want to run on the road some times!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 Got to admit that after having driven the 4 at the weekend, the 6 knocks it into a cocked hat in many ways-performance, handling+refinement. It's just not as pretty though! Sounds like you need a TR5 As for your Webers, I'd be curious to know what sizes they're set up with. There need not be any voids in the performance or spitting back, etc. I've been in (4) examples so far with none of those symptoms, including mine and (2) at Racetorations ( one of which had 45s ). I do think running in the motor will make a difference in your favor, and waiting until they're warm before working them hard, too. I confess that mine don't get full throttle below 2000 rpm anyway; if that's important to you it may entail some compromises Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted January 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 (edited) Sounds like you need a TR5 As for your Webers, I'd be curious to know what sizes they're set up with. There need not be any voids in the performance or spitting back, etc. I've been in (4) examples so far with none of those symptoms, including mine and (2) at Racetorations ( one of which had 45s ). I do think running in the motor will make a difference in your favor, and waiting until they're warm before working them hard, too. I confess that mine don't get full throttle below 2000 rpm anyway; if that's important to you it may entail some compromises HAHA - Like the shape of the 4 / 5. In an ideal world the 4 would be the one to have for all track if I could get 250 - 260bhp out of it! Already easily the most power 4 and can JUST about stay with the top 6 on short track and occassionaly beat them http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=...841583459902993 but 6 is the way to go for more reliable racing and being able to win at short through to the very fsatest tracks. Mike's Green Monster make 239bhp at the rear Wheels! at a well respected rolling road in the Midlands. My 4 Split like a Dog (Love it) - christ you should have seen / heard iton the 42 chokes the TWin webber 50's had! (on custom 40 chokes now). It is going to be setup for racing so less concerned about bottom end (if I get down to 2000rpm in a race something will be wrong!), short gearing will help it pull hard from low revs. Come and watch some CRACKING Racing this year. Will post my most likley events later. Edited January 25, 2007 by jellison Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted February 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 (edited) 315mm Discs, Alloy bells, AP Race Calipers all by BG. Rose linked think race bar by Gartrac. Horrible iron hubs will be off it before first race, replaced by alloy ones. Can't upload files! Edited February 2, 2007 by jellison Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6dbr Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 We have had the AP brake set up on Joe,s tr for the last two years. Off the shelf kit. As for the BHP? In over ten years looking after the TR i have never seen over 210 on any rolling road! but still a quick car or driver? looking forword to meeting up with you in the coming race season Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted March 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Looks like another vote of confidence for Webers! I just wonder how many would use them if they didn't have to be calibrated but I grant that it helps preserve the mystique http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1756653537869383870 Will post another when miles on the engine and or raced. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davehop Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Sounds very smooth already! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted March 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Sounds very smooth already!Oh it is - spins up like a mad thing when not in gear / under load. But carb chokes and jets that were in the new carb so far off, as will not pull past low 3k's on the short drive down the road - roll on monday when all sorted Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted April 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 First Race in it. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4818720917267585712 Car straight out of the box, 100kg heavier and still down on power – (not right chokes in it yet – sorting before next race – they had to order them), and a longer final drive than the other Fully modded 6’s. Started at the back as not sure of the brakes, and the savage clutch – problems in practice setting the bias (as no time to Test), so started at the back. (Gridded 4th). Over took all up to 3rd in 12 laps – race was shortened by 3- 4 laps – so I think I would have had the Griff too (150 – 200bhp more!) Oh and fastest lap of the race! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EricTR6 Posted April 23, 2007 Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 OVERTAKING IS AN ART !! Very good !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jo lloyd Posted April 23, 2007 Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 I loved that video, great race, in fact that was so good I think you deserve to paint your tr yellow and join my elite yellow tr club. Well done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted April 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2007 I loved that video, great race, in fact that was so good I think you deserve to paint your tr yellow and join my elite yellow tr club. Well done.Next one at Brands on the 6th May - 12 days - car will be faster (few things we will be changing ), will start on grid slot but think a few of the REAL Fast V8 stuff will be there so class win is the aim - but will be hard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotty Posted April 24, 2007 Report Share Posted April 24, 2007 You are all barking mad . It looks a hoot , how do you get involved in that ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted April 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2007 You are all barking mad . It looks a hoot , how do you get involved in that ?Drop a cam in it, flow the head, poly bush the suspension, stiffer springs, cage and race pads will have you on the grid - spend as much as you like after that. Contact Colin Jones at the www.thoroughbredsportscars.com for more info. Roger in the red Griff is from Lockerbie. DO IT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotty Posted April 24, 2007 Report Share Posted April 24, 2007 I have done the cam , polybushes and springs . Have a couple spare heads I could get done . What sort of cage ? I take it a full one ? what are race pads ? The car has only done about 2k since full body off rebuild so the rest should be OK . I take it I can use on road as well as track or should I look at another car ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted April 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2007 I have done the cam , polybushes and springs . Have a couple spare heads I could get done . What sort of cage ? I take it a full one ? what are race pads ? The car has only done about 2k since full body off rebuild so the rest should be OK . I take it I can use on road as well as track or should I look at another car ?Full cage yes I can send you pick of our - if you have screen on it like we do (in the 6 anyway) then a good cage company can make it very intergrated. You will be mid grid in a and battling with the mildly modded MGB's. Race pad are something like Hawk Blues (they are sintered metal so very good) but can go off a bit hauling a near std weight 6 up at the end of a 15 - 20 min race - but I do drive pretty hard! Even our car is fully road legal, but not ideal as an everyday car if you take it to the extent we have (well stupid really) - buta fast road car as our was and did well for several years is fine for the road and limited tracking (Won the Roadsport TR Register bit of the champ the first and onlt time we ran an almost full season in 2000). You could just do the northern races - Oulton, Cadwell - say 2 - 3 a year just for some fun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted April 25, 2007 Report Share Posted April 25, 2007 I had my TR3 completely restored , to a high standard I may say, for road use, and then decided to race it : after a couple of seasons, nothing of the car was left untouched. So, in terms of cost, buying a secondhand race car with the important things done is your cheapest option. And you can choose your model in that case too. It depends on the championship and you personal preference, but a 4 cylinder car is often more interesting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jellison Posted April 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2007 I had my TR3 completely restored , to a high standard I may say, for road use, and then decided to race it : after a couple of seasons, nothing of the car was left untouched. So, in terms of cost, buying a secondhand race car with the important things done is your cheapest option. And you can choose your model in that case too. It depends on the championship and you personal preference, but a 4 cylinder car is often more interesting.but a 4 cylinder car is often more interesting. Horses for courses! 4 are better handling - takes more to make a 6 handle like you think it should!!!!!!! My 4 was bought as a racer - was a bit thrown to gether an had not really had much success - but had some good basic bits in it - know every nut and bolt has been changed - but had that 17 years. 6 would still be fine on the road if not for the clutch we have in it now! But will not get used on road much. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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