67_gt6 Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 (edited) Hi I noticed last night that on my 4A I can push / pull the steering wheel (and, by extension, column) about 3/8". This is enough to break the horn circuit (if I pull. I expect it loses earth?) Edit: I've checked this again and the free play is at the adaptor that clamps against the splined pinion and also at one of the other adaptors at the bottom of the column which clamps against the splined tip of the lower bit of column. I've tightened up the bolts on each adaptor which has removed the majority of the play however I don't want to overdo it - how much (if any) in/out play should there be at these points? cheers andy Edited September 27, 2006 by 67_gt6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Moore Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 Hi Andy The movement you discribe is slack in the collapsable steering column assembly. Firstly open the bonnet and locate the clamp holding the top steering column to the bottom steering shaft ( just ahead of the top flexi coupling). Slacken the two 1/4 bolts holding the clamp tight. Set the steering wheel to the correct location (about 1/8 in from all the way in). Making sure the steering wheel is not pushed back out again, push the clamp up till it rubs on the nylon thrust washer on the outer steering column. Lock the bolts back up on the clamp. This should stop the float you discribe. Don't overtighen the clamp bolts, as this is the crude forrunner of the collapsible steering column now fitted to all cars. There is probably a setting torque for this assy somewhere which probably says you should after slackening the bolts should back off the grub screw on the top plate on the clamp. After repositioning the clamp should tighten the bolts and then tighten the grub screw to a certain torque Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted September 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 (edited) Thanks Dale, that makes sense Edit: or at least it did, however thinking about it when I moved the column by hand to see where the play was, the whole assembly moved ie outer and inner, including the impact clamp. So when I moved the column back towards the windscreen the impact clamp would meet the part of the assembly that protrudes into the engine bay - is this the location of the nylon thrust washer? andy Edited September 28, 2006 by 67_gt6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Hi AndyThe movement you discribe is slack in the collapsable steering column assembly. Firstly open the bonnet and locate the clamp holding the top steering column to the bottom steering shaft ( just ahead of the top flexi coupling). Slacken the two 1/4 bolts holding the clamp tight. Set the steering wheel to the correct location (about 1/8 in from all the way in). Making sure the steering wheel is not pushed back out again, push the clamp up till it rubs on the nylon thrust washer on the outer steering column. Lock the bolts back up on the clamp. This should stop the float you discribe. Don't overtighen the clamp bolts, as this is the crude forrunner of the collapsible steering column now fitted to all cars. There is probably a setting torque for this assy somewhere which probably says you should after slackening the bolts should back off the grub screw on the top plate on the clamp. After repositioning the clamp should tighten the bolts and then tighten the grub screw to a certain torque Hi Dale, Is this the procedure for adjusting the length of the steering column as I am trying to adjust my driving position. According to the handbook I am supposed to slacken the locknut, turn the allen screw, slacken a couple of clamps under the dash panel inside the car & hey presto adjust the column length! Only problem is, I cannot shift the allen key, absolutely very tight! Any suggestions? Monty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted September 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Spot on Dale, thank you - too much time spent looking at exploded diagrams instead of at the thing itself had confused my understanding of it. Now sorted as you suggested. andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Robin Powell Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 The rubber joints on the steering column have a design defect in that they can't be tightened sufficiently to clamp the spline as the metal is too thick. They won't come out due to the groove for the bolt machined into the shaft. I have changed the bottom one to the revised universal joint as used on the TR6 which will clamp up correctly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale Moore Posted September 30, 2006 Report Share Posted September 30, 2006 Monty Just slacken the 2 bolts on the other side of the clamp, this will have the same effect. Not sure how much the outer can be slid in or out to have the desired "adjustable" effect." Rob Totally agree, almost impossible to tighten up the spline to the rack without exeeding the tensile limits of the two 1/4 bolts! what is the difference on the tr6 UJ coupling? Regards Dale Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Robin Powell Posted September 30, 2006 Report Share Posted September 30, 2006 The TR6 joint is a universal joint rather than a rubber device and the metal that clamps to the spline each end is thinner and more shaped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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