Alpha206 Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 (edited) Wonder if anyone can help me with a problem that seems to alternate between 2 scenarios: 1. Took my 72 150PI out for a spin today and noticed the ignition warning light glowing dimly, getting brighter as I increased revs. 2. Got home, had a fiddle under the dash and thought I'd solved the problem...except now the light is on when the ignition is off. 3. More fiddling; aware of a tiny "click", and first problem was back again. 4. Revved engine; light glowed brighter then went out until I switched off... 5. Put car in garage. Disconnected battery. Shut garage door. Turned to forum...! I briefly lost my horn & left indicator, plus hazards (retrofit). They all seem to be working OK again. My gut feel is there's an earth problem somewhere (one of the left tail light connections looks a bit iffy) but not sure (don't like electrics). Would an earth problem cause this light to glow? Any advice gratefully received. Edited September 9, 2006 by Alpha206 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Victor1155 Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Hi Alpha206 I had the very same problem many years ago with my fathers Triumph 2000, and other cars since then, it is quite possibly an alternator problem. With my fathers 2000 one of the diodes in the rectifier pack was allowing the battery live to go to earth causing the battery to discharge throught the alternator, hence the warning light on with the ignition off. It is possible that you have the same problem, if it is, a new alternator should fix it. Steven H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alpha206 Posted September 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 Hi Alpha206 I had the very same problem many years ago with my fathers Triumph 2000, and other cars since then, it is quite possibly an alternator problem. With my fathers 2000 one of the diodes in the rectifier pack was allowing the battery live to go to earth causing the battery to discharge throught the alternator, hence the warning light on with the ignition off. It is possible that you have the same problem, if it is, a new alternator should fix it. Steven H. Thanks Steven - that sounds very likely - had another trawl through the forum & found some similar complaints. Some advice needed - should I replace with a 16ACR (as fitted) go for an 18ACR? Cheers, Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Victor1155 Posted September 10, 2006 Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 Hi Graeme Personally I would go for the 18 ACR, I have already replaced my own ailing alternator with this. However, there always is a however, I found that the standard ammeter copes very badly with the extra output as the needle swings so far past the +ve it disappears. To overcome the problem I fitted a Smiths 60-0-60 ammeter which copes with the extra output easily. If your 6 is the later model with a battery condition gauge you shouldn't have any problems. Steven H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alpha206 Posted September 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 Thanks again Steven, My car's a 1972 CP model and has an ammeter - would I be right in thinking that it's a 30-0-30 gauge (ie needle will go off clock)? (Electrics aren't my strong point...that's why I did Aero rather than Electronic Engineering! ) What I should be looking at paying for a 60-0-60 ammeter to cope with the 18 ACR? Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted September 11, 2006 Report Share Posted September 11, 2006 Or fitting a Voltmeter? Then you don't need a high current wire behind the dash anymore. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Victor1155 Posted September 12, 2006 Report Share Posted September 12, 2006 Hi Graeme Marvmul is right about fitting a voltmeter as opposed to an ammeter as generally speaking where there are volts there are amps and the voltmeter carries less of a fire hazard if things go wrong. As for the cost of an ammeter you can either buy new? or keep a watchful eye on the ever popular? Ebay for one. Sometimes they can be had for less than a fiver plus post. IMHO the fitting of the 18 ACR definately makes a tremendous difference to the electric system and ensures that there is enough battery power for those reluctant starts that I have often heard about, never experienced them myself . Brgs Steven H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alpha206 Posted September 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2006 Cheers for that chaps...what changes do I need to make to the wiring to fit a voltmeter? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted September 12, 2006 Report Share Posted September 12, 2006 (edited) You can also add a second wire going directly from alternator to the battery and leave the A meter where it is. This will cope with the extra load. Anyhow the needle will only go off scale at starting and will settle back as soon as the engine runs, this under condition that the battery is charged. The next option is to add a shunt to the A meter. A wire of the same caliber and length will divide the indication in 2, but this will not solve the " hot wire behind the dash" problem Jean Edited September 12, 2006 by jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alpha206 Posted April 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2007 Ah well, lived with the problem for 6 months convinced it wasn't the alternator. It was. Now have a new alternator and no little red light (at least not when I don't want it!) Thanks for all your input on this...I'm learning, slowly....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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