Dave JRH Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Hi Everyone, Well i bought it and it is brilliant! I have sorted out the petrol smell in the boot (loose connection) and spent yesterday caliberating the butterflys and blowing the injectors out. The tickover is still slightly lumpy (150hp !) but the exhaust smell has reduced to at worst bearable and at best reasonable. The previous owner has given me an Aldon LU 166A ignition system, which i would like to fit, unfortunately the plastic strip to set the air gap is missing. Does anyone know the air gap please? Many thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 (edited) Dave I don't think the air gap is an issue on the TR6. Just fix the module to the plate where your points once were, fit the plastic thingy over the dizzy shaft, refit the rotor arm and you should be OK. There was no need to adjust the air gap on mine. Tip - check your ignition timing with a strobe before fitting the Aldon as you may well need to adjust it by 2 or 3 degrees after fitting. Edited June 30, 2006 by badshead Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 What he said ^^ No need to adjust the air gap. Didn't even know you could - my Pertronix instructions made no mention of it that I recall. But before you fit the gizmo, take the car for a burn & note what it's like above 5000rpm. Based on my (admittedly subjective) observations so far, the engine runs more smoothly up there with a Pertronix Ignitor, which I believe is the same as the Aldon. Caveat - Although my points were carefully adjusted before the replacement, and appeared to be in OK nick, they weren't new. Who knows - perhaps I'd have seen the same effect after fitting new points. Still, you have the Aldon, and it's the work of five minutes to fit (or remove). Give it a whirl! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Although my points were carefully adjusted before the replacement, and appeared to be in OK nick, they weren't new. Who knows - perhaps I'd have seen the same effect after fitting new points. John That's the right attitude, I think! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave JRH Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Right then, I have just fitted the Aldon unit, retarded the timing a few degrees to stop the pinking. The engine starts easily and ticks over marginally smoother, but when driven it has an intermittent mis-fire. When it is not mis-firing it runs very well accelerating at virtually any revs in any gear, but then without warning the mis-fire occurs. I have 12 volts from the + side of the coil to earth Anyone got any clues or fixes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Right then, I have just fitted the Aldon unit, retarded the timing a few degrees to stop the pinking. The engine starts easily and ticks over marginally smoother, but when driven it has an intermittent mis-fire. When it is not mis-firing it runs very well accelerating at virtually any revs in any gear, but then without warning the mis-fire occurs. I have 12 volts from the + side of the coil to earth Anyone got any clues or fixes? One possible fault is the mounting plate not earthed well. If the distributor has an earth strap or wire, it should be retained. Another thing to consider is that the Aldon unit gives a much higher the spark voltage than before and it is possible that the plugs or plug leads are not good enough anymore and that the sparks are choosing a short circuit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave JRH Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 OK, i had not considered the earth, i shall check it out now. The car came with NGK 6ES plugs @ 0.025". Do you think this grade of plug is ok or should i change them or open up the gap to allow for the higher voltage spark? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Stubbs Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Plugs and gap sound OK but are your plug leads up to it? I have a similar set up and invested in a set of Magnecor leads and have had no problems. Could be coil too. High output sports coils are up to the job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave JRH Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Hi Bob, Thanks for the info................. did your car mis-fire before you changed the leads? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted July 2, 2006 Report Share Posted July 2, 2006 High output sports coils are up to the job. Sports coils (i.e. Lucas Sports Coil) are suitable, but Aldon is warning against some 'High Energy' coils with low resistance (the resistance in the low tension side of the coil should be more than 1.5 ohm for a 6 cyl engine). The air gap should be no less than 1mm (0.025"), if necessary the screw hole in the plate of the Aldon unit can be enlarged. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Red Leader Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 The air gap should be no less than 1mm (0.025"), Hello Marvmul. I always thought 1mm was 0.03937" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave JRH Posted July 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 UPDATE: Checked the air gap which is just over the prescribed 1mm, bought a set of silicon leads, distributor cap and rotor arm plus a set of NGK BP 5ES. As i mentioned was running 6ES plugs, but these appeared to be slightly sooty. (could have been caused by long periods of tick over or slow village driving) Anyway my theory is that a slightly hotter plug will improve combustion and efficiency. Took it for a drive post modifications........absolutely perfect, a real pleasure to drive, no mis-fire or hesitations, backires or pinking. Going to visit the parents in Cornwall this weekend, (round trip circa. 700 miles) i shall be taking my old points though! Many thanks to everyone for all your help and suggestions Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted July 5, 2006 Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 To Red Leader : keep thinking like that. I was confusing with 1mm = 1/25 inch To Dave JHR : take the NGK 6 with you too : of course leave the NGK 5 in the engine, but if on a long journey these plugs appear too hot you may need colder plugs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted July 5, 2006 Report Share Posted July 5, 2006 Dave, Good luck with the 700m run - let us know how she performs. If you want a good stop en route, take a slight detour to Powerham Castle (about 5 or so miles south M5 J30 - Exeter exit towards Dawlish) and visit the Devon Crashbox Historical Gathering - always a cracking show, splendid location, lots of classic cars (and other mechanical stuff) and excellent beer tent! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave JRH Posted July 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Sorry for the delay, i had to go to work!! The car performed perfectly during the 819 miles (slight under estimatation!) apart from when, out of desperation, i had to put standard Texaco unleaded petrol in. This caused pinking of biblical proportions and unfortunately due to inexperience and over cautiousness, i retarded the timing too far which caused a mis-fire. However, a few days later once i had refilled with Optimax and a shot of octane booster, advanced the timing after a few miles everthing was back to "normal" I suppose i should mention the incident on the way down in Coventry just after the end of the M45......... Roof down enjoying the drive with my dear wife next to me, the sky was looking threatening, but as there were plenty of lay-bys i had no worries. Unfortunately the heavens opened in between lay-bys and by the time we had stopped and began to erect the roof (the first time ever for my wife!) we were absolutely soaked. The road was about an inch deep and night had arrived 2 hours early. Still with the heater on we soon dried out after about 2 hours............... and decided to perfect the roof operation asap Whilst at my parents i decided to attend to the oil leak from the oil filler/vent cap which had plagued my trip down. According to my Haynes book early TR's had a hose from the cap or rocker cover which just hung down the side of the engine, later ones had the scavenger pipe system. My 1971 model appeared to be a hybrid in that it had a scavenger pipe and a vented cap (original in style?). I prised the top off the cap and found what appeared to be a wad of oily horse hair. Once removed i fitted a 6BA nut and bolt with lock nut and Loctite (belt and braces!!!) to block the vent hole. Result: after 500 miles not a trace of a leak, apart from the obligatory weep around 2 of the three studs. I feel i should mention that my engine also has the after market auxilliary oil feed to the head which possibly compounded the original leak.............. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Stubbs Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Dave Suggest you check out the forum postings on the subject but the general consensus seems to be to ditch the auxilliary oil feed as it does more harm than good. Good to see you had a relatively incident free trip though. I won't be able to make Malvern this year but last year I had a 900 mile round trip there and back and never missed a beat. The only way to travel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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