Clutch slip

[Smeggie]

Hi

My clutch started to slip in 3 and 4th gear under hard acceleration, this then also occured in 2nd. Every thing was fine pulling away. So I ordered a new driven plate and removed the gearbox. The new plate looked the same thickness as the old. The thrust bearing was pretty rough and the fingers on the cover were worn. Unfortunatly I had to refit with the old cover and bearing having cleaned and greased the levers etc. And guess what? The problem still persists. I have ordered a new cover and bearing. So can any one confirm that my problem is the clutch? I have removed the solenoid for the overdrive and ensured it was deselected.

And this is a timely reminder to all, buy and change all 3 parts at once!

Thanks for any advice

Happy motoring

Smeggie

[Terry Pruce]

Are you sure it's the clutch?

 

I had a similar problem which turned out to be a shattered woodruff key in one of rear hubs. The drive shaft spun, got hot, then connected with the hub, then slipped again This had the effect of removing any drive to the rear wheels. All happened while driving up and down Swiss mountains!

[Guest nco]

HI Smeggie,

 

I changed my clutch last year. A few recommendations:

 

1. Change the clutch fork pin to an uprated one (and make sure its a good fit with the shaft and fork!)

2. Fit longer bronze bushes to the clutch shaft ends.

3. Fit a bronze bearing carrier (from Revington)

4. Depending on your clutch type - the bolts that screw the cover to the flywheel are different lengths. So if you swap from Borg and beck to Laycock or vise versa - make sure you use the right bolts!

5. Make sure you line up the clutch plate with an alignment tool - moulding of the gearbox input shaft.

6. Fit the special bolts to the flywheel housing so that the gearbox is aligned centrally to the engine. (Else it kills the gearbox bearings!)

 

Clutch is marginal at best so you need to get everything spot on. Make sure you dont get any grease near the plate. You should just put a little on the nose of the gearbox and some of the bearing carrier and that should suffice.

 

Re Borg and Beck vs Laycock - there are quite a few dodgy aftermarket ones out there - get one from a reputable dealer - not a cheap one! I found Borg and Beck slightly heavier than my old Laycock one but the pick up was much smoother (the Laycock tended to grab a bit more than the Borg and Beck). Regarding bearings - some people have fitted a Toyota uprated type - I didnt bother - the bronze carrier isnt pinned so can spin on the shaft. I felt that woud suffice (fingers crossed!!)

 

Hope of some help!

 

Neil

[Richard Crawley]

Smeggie

It’s a shame you found out the hard way but always replace all 3 components when renewing a clutch, it’s false economy not too; you really don’t want to be hauling that gearbox out more times than you have to.

 

Terry’s problem was a curious one, I’ve not seen that before so it might be worth checking! I would second all of Neil’s comments although I did not use longer bronze bearings, just fitted two of the standard DU bushes. No experience with the Revington bronze bearing carrier & I have the standard carrier & an OE thrust bearing fitted. I have not had problems with these in the past but only time will tell.

 

Also be very wary of those **** B&B units even from major suppliers. I bought mine from one of the largest TR suppliers only to be told by TRGB (who balanced my drive train) that the driven plate was useless & would not last long; armed with their information, I did get a partial refund from the original supplier though & I still have the plate; for what use it is!

Edited March 7, 2006 by Richard CRawley

[Smeggie]

Brilliant

Thanks for the replys and advice, the bits are coming from those very helpful chaps at TRGB, so they should be fine, I will certainly change the shaft pin as well

Thanks

again

Happy motoring

Smeggie

[marvmul]

TRGB (who balanced my drive train)

 

Richard, are you talking about the propshaft only, or also the drive shafts to the wheels?

Very few people seem to bother about balancing these things. I wonder if it is sufficient to have the

faster spinning propshaft balanced, and if it is at all possible to balance the splined drive shaft.

[Guest ron]

Smeggie

As well as fixing the fork to the cross shaft with an uprated pin I also bored it through and fitted it with a roll pin for good measure.

Ron

[Richard Crawley]

Having huge problems with the website during last 24 hours; cant 'quote' but managed to get this post on!

 

Marvmul

Sorry, I appear to have misled you by my choice of terminology. Balancing on my engine was in fact limited to the clutch, flywheel, crank & front pulley assembly. I did consider a full reciprocating engine balance but decided that for road use & the state of engine tune (stage 2) the cost &/or effort involved was not really warranted.

 

I don’t think there would be any benefit in balancing the drive shaft/hub assemblies as the rotating mass is low as is the relative speed; it’s only when you put the road wheels on, balance starts to have a noticeable effect. The prop shaft is also very short so it’s unlikely to make a great deal of difference unless it’s way out but if it’s been apart & rebuilt, an assembly re-balance would certainly do no harm.