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Smeggie

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  1. Looks like there’s a varied range of 165/80 T rated although some have a more classic tread pattern. Any feedback on getting wires balanced!? Smeggie
  2. Thank you all Not the advice I was expecting ref going back to 165 vs 185. I will seriously consider this change. I am finding steering and low speed manoeuvres increasingly hard work, 165s might be the answer The T-Tracs are rated to 118 mph, is that a concern insurance wise? I had my wires balanced at Longstone. The wheel was balanced static, flat, on a point. Using air in a bubble to find the centre of balance. It all looked a bit simple but the results were excellent and considering some of the wheels and tyres (£1000s) they were using the kit on it clearly works
  3. Hi I have 185/70/15 hr Vredestien classics on wires. These performed well but have been on the car 8 plus years and have been stood stationary for some time. I am relaxed with going back to 165/15. I have found some Galaxy 165/15 HR for £72. They do say tubeless? Longstone sell a whitewall version of this tyre, and they specialise in classic tyres Also some 185/70/15 VR Radar tyres from Camskill for £62 Any feedback would be greatly appreciated Smeggie
  4. Thanks Peter All sorted Simon
  5. Good evening The MOT man spotted the lh drive shaft was roughly 1 cm out from the diff. On removing the shaft it was clear the nut holding the flange to the shaft had come loose. This allowed the flange to move away from the diff. The slot in the shaft is twice as wide as should be so I collected a shaft nut and bearing from Rimmers. Is it possible to fit the new bearing to the shaft without a press and any tips would be greatly appreciated Cheers Simon
  6. Brilliant never considered using a screen protector thanks to everyone who replied
  7. Hi Before I meddle with the wiper arms can anybody offer advice on how to make the blade touch and clean the lower part of the drivers side? I have tried 3 different types of blade but they don't bend round the curved bit Thanks Smeggy
  8. Many thanks, bought some EBC black stuff on eBay and so far a huge improvement now able to progressively slow the car and lock fronts early days but the info with them suggests they will improve over next 200 miles Smeggy
  9. Thanks Peter Copied a few times to make it 10 hours long! Looking forward to it especially as Brian Blessed is featured! Smeggie
  10. Amazing! The Badger song does actually run for 10 hrs, longer than most TR's without maintenance, new gearbox, engine etc etc unless of course the Badger is run over, which seems quite popular. Had to pause the song for refreshments but time well spent Smeggie
  11. Hi Time to change front pads and seems Mintex 1144 would do for my every day use, struggling to locate any other than at Revington any other suppliers out there? Is there a choice of rear shoes or just the standard? cheers Smeggie
  12. Or as good old Wiki suggests Look at the bottom of your radiator cap. There are two seals. One that seals at the top neck and one that seals at the bottom of the filler neck. As the fluid heats up it expands. It eventually over powers the primary spring in the radiator cap. The bottom seal is broken as the pressure exceeds the spring force of the cap and the cap rises. Fluid then enters the overflow tank until enough pressure is relieved to allow the spring to force the bottom seal back into place. You'll also find on the bottom center of the cap that there's a brass or stainless circle pla
  13. As described here http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/understanding-radiator-cap-pressure-ratings not helful in solving your boiling over when stopped but might save you drilling holes, I bet 5p its the rad cap Smeggy
  14. Just checked and I have no hole in the thermostat. Yep Last rebuild a loose clip on the top hose dumped water at 82 every where when the stat opened not fun! I just top the rad up and leave the cap off till it stops bubbling and before the stat opens put the cap on. I put about 3/4 in the overflow bottle and over the next few cycles of hot cold it moves to 1/3 and stays that way. It definitely goes into the engine, I vaguely remember someone suggesting the rad cap has two parts/functions one pressure when running and one vacuum to refill when cool, just a thought? Smoggy
  15. Both lengths are at Rimmers for surprisingly the same price, last month Cheers
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