Rem18 Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Hi I am just replacing a broken rocker arm that has finally arrived here overseas. While gapping the valves I wondering if I should wonder away from from the standard Haines gap? I am running leaded valves (original) and always used Castrol additive and even though I have done some hard driving over the years (used to organise a 50 alpine passes in 5 days gig) I have always been on it and happy My father has an original from new H reg 150bhp TR6 and my 5 leaves nothing to be desired on engine note. The car was running rough lately and after checking what I thought was everything (but it wasnt) I eventually found the rocker, but before that I had been over the plugs, new HT cables points (yes I still run points) new rotor arm (one was wobbly) and all sorts. After 8 months storage its was running even worse, backfiring and all sort, so I even swapped in a metering unit as my old one was running a bit rich and I think the diaphragm had now gone after long term storage. I have always done the timing very statically and then just driven it 'on the ear' to get what I want. As I am about to put the rocker gear back I was wondering if there is anything different on the valve gaps and timing I might try.? To be honest I have always been very happy and am sure the new refurbished metering unit that was overhauled by Pumfords will be a please too. Just asking if anyone would have any suggestions for setting valves and timing that might be different to what I have always done? Thanks T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 10 inlet 12 exhaust timing 10 strobe at 800 rpm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Thanks for that Neil I will try that once I am up and running although as I said I have always been a bit of a drive and turn the dizzy wheel type till it just pinks. Would you care to elaborate on your advise ? Thanks T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 I'll elaborate. Set them cold. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted August 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 Haha Thanks Pete. But I meant as in if Neil wanted to mention why he felt that was appropriate for the timing? Is that what is now considered right with different fuel etc? I also just stripped the threads on 2 studs at 28lbs and yet the TR book says 34lbs. Haines says 24-26lbs.?? The studs and nuts were very good and the Torque wrench in theory is checked. Am I missing something? Is the Haines manual right and 34 is too much? I tightened them with the rockers as per when I took them off. It shouldnt make any difference but should I have slackened off every rocker first? It shouldnt be the cause should it? I am wondering if the Haines is right and the TR book wrong. Why would studs and nuts strip at 28lbs if perfect? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 9, 2017 Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 34 is correct 24/26 is correct for the 4 pot engine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted August 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 Thanks you Neil. So the Haynes manual is wrong then. I have ordered a complete set of studs and nuts. But the ones on car looked good when I refitted. Can you think of any reason why these stripped at what read as 28lbs? I dont want to strip them again, do you think it can only be in the torque wrench? (this was checked against another and actually came up light) Should I have needed to slacken off all the rockers first? Really dont want to strip these again. Thanks T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 9, 2017 Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 They should be undone a small amount at a time and the same going back on,you did this yes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted August 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 As In tighten each a bit of at a time? 'yes' I thought I was being really careful. I started at 20lbs tightened all and then moved up to 24 etc then all again and so on Got to 28lbs and stripped. Should I have slackened all the rockers off first? Should I double nut tighten the new studs when refitting? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 9, 2017 Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 Did you remove like that? something tells me with the broken rocker somebody has been there before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted August 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 No Neil the car is mine for more than 20 years and I have only ever cold adjusted the valves on occasions. In fact much as in the old days there was all the hype about unleaded I have alwasy used valvemaster and seemed to have been ok in about 50k. The brocken rocker must have happened about 100 odd miles ago as thats when I started hearing 5 cylinders. But as It was end of last summer after changed distributor cap, leads, rotor arm points and plugs it got cold I got fed up so I stored the car and only got back to it now, hence found the sheared rocker. Now back to my question Was I going to far turning 1+ turns of each nut should I work at 1/2 to one turns of each? When I remover the rocker assembly I slackened off each as I went, but maybe now tightening I did too many turns between each. I have moved the rockers on shaft and they seem pretty free and well oiled, oil at number 6 stud is also fairly clean (I change oil around 3k) I thought I was being careful but maybe I wasnt enough.? Should I just do 1/2 to 1 turn each when cranking up? Could it have been just that? As I said studs and nuts looked fine before. Thanks T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 9, 2017 Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 +1, likely the dreaded po has been there. Personally I always slacken the adjusters off while refitting mainly because I b@ggered up a Ford camshaft by assuming that all would remain the same. As for timing, start with Neil's setting then tune by ear to eliminate pinking under load. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted August 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 PO? So Pete adjusters slackened off and 1/2 turns or like 2lb increases each time.? I have to say I now have the lurgey on this I can see me stripping them again so I am probably going to have a mechanic pal come over. he probably wont even uise a torque as he is one of this 30 years hands on types. hahahahaha Is there a particular tightening order? I was doing like 2,4,6,1,3,5 etc. Timing is a week or so of now but point taken. T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 9, 2017 Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 I'm guilty of never having used a torque wrench on the rocker pedestal nuts. I just do them up tight. As for order of tightening I do maybe a turn or two on each, no particular order, making sure that the shaft is level. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted August 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 There you go. Im inclined now to just tighten them by hand on a short socket wrench, thats how I unwound them. But Pete you still havnt translated 'the dreaded po' ??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 9, 2017 Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 Yours for more than 20 years? so you must have the youngest tr5 ever if you have owned it from new. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted August 9, 2017 Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 PO = previous owner Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted August 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2017 Ahh Pete. No Niel My dad bought a Tr6 new in 1970 which is still in the family. I bought the Tr5 just over 20 years ago. Only had a new Gbox after a layshaft failure rest is as was when bought except for metering unit I have just changed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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