DCONNELL Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 1976 TR6, freshly rebuilt engine. I had webers on this... pulled them and am reinstalling my original 175 CDs. They were professionally rebuilt about 2 years ago, but I could never get it set up right so I pulled them, but on the webers, and the car ran great. I'm wanting to get it back closer to original (and the webers were ****). Install of the 175CDs went well.... I think the rear float or float valve was stuck as the carb was flooding out of the bowl vent... that has stopped. Now I'm trying to just run it to get it warm. In trying to set the idle, to warm up... the slow idle adjustment screw is not having a very sensitive effect. To get it to run, I have to screw them both in such that when it starts and runs... it is up around 2000 RPMs. If I back her off a bit... it slowly comes down and dies. Fuel pressure is verified at a steady 2.5. If I use the choke, she'll start and run but again, up around 2000 RPM. The dying-out makes me suspect fuel, but I have a new, transparent fuel filter and fuel is not the problem. Thoughts? I'm approaching frustrated, and $1,000.00 US will put a set of SUs on this thing... HATE giving up but... I want to drive the car.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) For help with setting up Zenith-Stromberg 175 CD carbs, contact poolboy at http://www.6-pack.org Registration is simple, leave a post in the maintenance forum. Edited April 30, 2016 by Sapphire72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Are the thin rubber diaphragms in good order? A small tear can have quite a dramatic effect on tick over and general performance of the carbs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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