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Steering Ball joint


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At the last MOT, while not failing, the inspector said there was play in the ball joint in the steering arm, passenger side. I have removed the short ball pin(bit with the ball on it) and the ball housing. The shim had disintegrated. I could see no wear in the ball or housing but that might be difficult to spot? For safety I ordered new bits. There is a choice of shim, .002 or .010, so I ordered both, and a new spring. Presumably when I assemble and tighten the large lock nut, there should be no play? How tight should it be? How do I know which shim to use?

Also what is best grease to use? Presumably I just use as much as I can get in?

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Presumably you are talking about the inner rod end on the rack. They should not be tight as that will accelerate the wear on the ball and socket The large nut goes up to the end of its thread and the shim pack determines the amount of play in the pin.The rod should have equal resistance in all directions (due to the spring) and have .002" lift in it (See group 4.209 in the workshop manual) You will also need a new lock tab.

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart

I have also found another reference in the forum from Aug 2010 which is also helpful.

 

Seems I am trying to achieve freedom of movement when all is tightened up but not too much to allow any(or minimum) play in the joint.

This is done using either, or both shims?

 

In the MOT the car was on a ramp with the suspension slack. There was very little play as I saw it when the engineer moved the wheel, but obviously enough for him to mention it.

 

I have the DVD but not the manual, there is nothing in the DVD.

 

Anyway I have the new locktab and spring. Will get it checked over and alignment checked when complete.

 

Should I use any particular grease?

 

Thanks for advice

 

John

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Adding or subtracting shims will give the correct clearance although because you now cant get all the different size shims it can be difficult to get an exact measurement. If the rack is held horizontal you can always tell a worn inner joint as the steering arm will just drop down on its own as opposed to staying out straight. Some younger MOT testers aren't familiar with the concept of "lift" or "clearance" in any part of suspension/steering/wheel bearings and will fail or give advisories for areas that were originally designed to have a small amount of either.

I use a water resistant Fuchs grease.

Stuart.

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