Malocomotion Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Well, it depends of the use of your TR ! http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4886/img0367fx.jpg cheers Isabelle et Patrick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Hi Chris, you are trying to apply sound German engineering logic here, one step at a time - I'd agree with you, of course. But let's not forget - Badfrog is French . . . . . Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 ..... But let's not forget - Badfrog is French . . . . . Hey Alec, don't point that out too loud or he maybe might hit me! You're lucky - you have a deep water between France and yourself.....between me and him is only a very tiny river called Sarre over which can jump if he likes. Cheers Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Chris, Your remarks are quite true. I was just trying to raise the rear a bit to clear the garage door stop by 1". That resulted in a clear tendency to skid 180° anytime I cornered hard. The rest of the car was not modified then. When I set the rear back to the normal lower position, the car resumed normal behavior. I never intended to elaborate any further. So I kept that F/R ratio and improved all the components from there to obtain the best result. That involved basically Vred tyres, Spax and Moss comp leaf springs. Now the car handles real well. Your car is a race car and certainly has a lot of coordinated mods plus heavy rubber so it's hard to compare with a simple improved road car with normal tyres. Nevertheless it is clearly visible on the pics of your car in motion that the rake is almost neutral. Seems very equilibrated and efficient BTW. Concerning my present ability to jump over the Maginot line, I wouldn't worry too much if I were you. It's already a drag to climb stairs .... Cheers, Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 (edited) Hi Badfrog, okay, I see. Your intention is right but maybe the way of testing things is questionable. You would be very surprised if you would have a look on my suspension. It is very stock like. I run slightly uprated front springs, stock leaf springs. Red Konis at front and stock lever shocks at rear with uprgraded oil. It took a lot of years to make the racer faster. While others fiddled with engine power I concentrated on suspension works and found the golden fleece two years ago. Then I started with engine tuning and putted 30 HP more in it. The things which I took care of were: - drivability - braking - balance Driveability: A car which easy to drive is fast. You have to feel yourself comfortable. To achieve this, the rear end is the more important one. Make the rear end calm and stable - the way to go: As soft as possible, as hard as needed. So I tested several springs and went back to stock leafs. Next was the front dive under braking......harder springs were needed but then the car did understeer badly. So first I rised the camber and camber gain curve. That helped a lot. But the car was far of balance so I installed a rear swaybar. Well, oversteer! oversteer! That was too much for being fast and I stalled a front swaybar to compensate the rear one. Well that was great then. Made both adjustable for different conditions. I'm driving on the Nordschleife a lot and I was bothered that I had to work on the steering too much for feeling confident. To cure this I changed the bump steer curve. Now the car does correct itself and I have not much to do anymore and can enjoy the ride. Cheers Chris Edited December 28, 2011 by MadMarx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badfrog Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 While others fiddled with engine power I concentrated on suspension works and found the golden fleece two years ago. Then I started with engine tuning and putted 30 HP more in it. The things which I took care of were: - drivability - braking - balance A car which easy to drive is fast. You have to feel yourself comfortable. To achieve this, the rear end is the more important one. Make the rear end calm and stable Chris, All of this is so true! Stiff front and soft rear, both within reasonable limits. When I was in california, my '67 Mustang 289 HP had big rear wheels and a strong rake, but the car relied on its power as well as its weight repartition to stay in-line. My attempt to paralell this with the TR4 was uncalled for, as the 275 BHP were sadly missing when re-accelerating at the end of a curve, not to mention the key feature of TRs as having almost no weight at all on the rear axle. Power is useless that doesn't transfer to the ground. The result of your work can be seen on your videos. Cheers, Badfrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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