F69 Posted June 26, 2004 Report Share Posted June 26, 2004 I need to access the rear of my guages, but age and inflexibilty dont auger well with lying flat on my back in the footwell. I see there are 5 screws holding the daskboard in place. If I remove the screws will this afford enough movement to be able to..change my bulbs, check wiring and rewire the rheostat. Secondly, does anyone know a computer whizz kid in my area, Kent. My computer is knackered and it took me 20 minutes to log into the website (internet connection fine ) just soooo slow loading any site. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cinnobar Posted June 26, 2004 Report Share Posted June 26, 2004 Richard, sent you PM. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted June 26, 2004 Report Share Posted June 26, 2004 I think you will be able to access all you need after removing screws, and possibly disconnecting speedo cable. A small mirror tile is invaluable for having a look to see what you're doing. As regards your computer running slowly, I recently had this problem, ended up completely re-formatting hard drive and reloading everything. The cause was a W32 worm type virus, which had come in as an attachment to an email (from my wife's uncle - which was why I tried to open the attachment, as I knew the originating address), it then replicated and sent itself to all that had sent me emails. A right nasty thing. Try going to Start button, Search for a file, and type in TZB or TZD then Enter, that may show a file 28 - 30kb, if you find that go to this link http://www.noadware.net/ if you need further help email me. To all other users, if you get an email approx. size 40.6 - 41.2kb with an attachment, don't attempt to open it. If you think you recognise the originating address, contact that person to confirm they sent you an email. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted June 27, 2004 Report Share Posted June 27, 2004 Richard, I never removed my dash, but as far as I know the Parker screws will only allow to loose the wooden panel. The wooden panel can only be removed from the steel frame after the gauges have been removed as they are held by U shaped brackets to the steel frame. I'm afraid you will have to go on your back Richard, much easier with top down and seat removed, only 2 bolts and a thick blanket over the seat rail. Jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F69 Posted June 27, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2004 My thanks to Jean and Jonlar. Looks like the back support on, seat out , pillow and foam thingy to lie on and bobs your uncle. I didn't want to try taking the dashboard off and then find I'd pulled out all sorts of wires. Cheers for the replies. Off the air now till I crack this damn worm virus. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted June 27, 2004 Report Share Posted June 27, 2004 Have had the covers off our CR1548-O today, Jean and I are both right on my car - the minor instruments are attached to the wooden dash, but the Tacho and Speedo clamps have to be released to get access to rear. Whatever you do though Richard, disconnect battery first of all. DO NOT be tempted to take the short cut and work behind dash. without taking this precaution, even if you don't wear any finger rings. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted June 27, 2004 Report Share Posted June 27, 2004 Richard, This won't help getting them out, but will help puting them back in and will ease future manipulation. All modern cars have looms that connect to the electrical units by multiway connectors. I've rewired my dash - indeed the whole car - with this in mind. Now, once a gauge is loosened from the dash, it can be drawn through the hole, the multiway disconnected and the gauge removed. In best Halfords tradition, "Reinstallation is the same procedure in reverse". I bought a whole set of multiways from Vehicle Wiring Products ( www.vehicleproducts.co.uk ), that included enough for the whole car. Cut the wires, crimp on the multiway connectors (solder if you are obsessive like me) and insert into the M/way. No need ever to grovel on your back, in the dark, trying to insert spade connectors into the back of an invisible gauge. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted June 28, 2004 Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 Like you John, I always solder after crimping, I've found in the past that unsoldered crimps are likely to get damp in, the copper tarnishes/corrodes and you end up with an intermittent problem. I've noticed that telephone engineers use crimps, but the crimped terminal is full of silicone grease which stops air/damp getting in. You're not obsessive, just don't like later faults. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted June 28, 2004 Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 Soldering is good as long as the solder does not flow into the cable sleeve and making it bristle, you have to be very carefull and apply a minimum of solder. Loose hanging soldered cables will finally brake off through vibration, so it,s wise to only use solder on well sustained/attached cables, or cables as John says, held by multiway connectors. For single Lucar connectors it's required to crimp the isolation of the connector around the cable sleeve. Jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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