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another way to waste your time


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I did all the early work with the air cleaners off but thought the final adjustments would be better with everything in place. Just could not get the front cylinders to come up correctly on the ColourTune.

 

Henry Lawson fans will remember in the ‘Loaded Dog’ one of the mongrels had carried one rear leg off the ground for years, but put it to good use after the ‘bang’.

For some reason my TR4A was following a similar policy, saving power on one cylinder for that rainy day.

 

After many unsuccessful iterations of electrical and carby adjustment, I took the air cleaners off and found that the front carby piston was jamming about half an inch above bottom, despite it having, earlier on, gone down OK.

 

A polish with 1500 grit paper where there were some minor scratches fixed that up.

It then allowed the engine to run OK. (It would be embarrassing to reveal how long I’ve been at this.)

 

In the process you get to do a bit of timing. I found to get a light to work across the points I had to file them clean after every run of the engine, otherwise the light didn’t come on.

 

For setting the timing I preferred the method of connecting one side of the light to the battery and the other to the coil side of the points, just using the points to switch the light on and off at TDC.

For the 4 deg advance , I used the Macysgarage.com recommendation of then turning the distributor A/R thumbscrew ½ a turn. –I found this easier than using the method of setting the advance at the pulley wheel and pointer.

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You should have about 8-degrees advance if you're running unleaded.

It is amazing just how much time you can spend going round and round and round chasing adjustments!

 

Definately have that T-Shirt

 

Ade

 

Thanks ADE, I'll gradually tweak my way up to that.

Currently trying to work out why the O/D spat the dummy on the last test drive after working fine. After that I have to look into the recently developed clutch slip.

Not sure how universal the expression "he's in more strife than Micky Dripping" is (we usually drop the 'g') but that's where I'm at at the moment.

The plan to get the 4A in order to reduce the amount of time spent on contemplative nose picking and gazing at my navel is working to a "T".

Edited by littlejim
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Hi,

re: O/D, check that you have decent electrical connection/ decent battery. If not, it can drop out and mimick clutch slip.

Ade

 

Thanks ADE, all the reachable electrics check out OK, haven't got to the cut outs on top of the gearbox yet.

While doing this a light globe slowly lit, infra-red, dull red, red, red-yellow, yellow etc., instead of the bright flash shown in cartoons; since I put the gearbox back in, way back when, a lot of dripping from the gearbox area has occurred, so possibly the O/D is not up to the plimsoll line and as you say it could produce the slipping. Guess what's first on the list to check tomorrow.

Hoping the delay in twigging relates to lack of experience with O/Ds rather than destruction of grey cells with Tooheys Blue or such.

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Hi Littlejim

Just an observation. I have been looking at timing issues and was confused by the Macy's recommendation of achieving 4 deg advance with 1/2 rotation of the thumbscrew. In all the manuals it is stated that 1 division of the vernier = 4 deg. On my distributor, no way does 1/2 rotation cover 1 division

cheers Steve

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Hi Jim,

on the O/D issue: might be worth dropping the oil and cleaning the O/D filter too.

For the minimal cost a gearbox-full of suitable oil, it's got to be worth it!

I'm using Penrites gearbox-30 oil, others will advocate 20/50w and hypo-80/90. I would choose choose yer poison and stick to it!

Here's hoping it's and easy/ gearbox-in fix eh?

cheers

ade

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