revalving the petrol pump

[littlejim]

I've discovered yet another gap in my knowledge, revealed by the attempt to improve the flow of petrol to the carby.

The valves in my petrol pump were 'staked' in position, not held down by a removeable flap.

After failure to remove them with differential heating/cooling I resorted to dentistry and drilled them out, and shaved down the staking.

Using a suitably sized socket I was going to gently tap the new ones into position. Because of recalcitrance on their part this turned into more of your bashing into position.

The die cast mustn't have appreciated this treatment because it is now weeping high octane petrol.

Another contribution to the UK economy for a new top will occur soon. (I'm doing my bit to help you out chaps.)

 

Has anybody successfully replaced the 'staked in' valves in a gentler fashion?

[vivdownunder]

Jim,

 

One way to fix the staked valve problem is to fit a top from the earlier AC pump, which had the valves pinned down via a bridging bracket.

 

Or you could ditch the mechanical pump for a low pressure electric pump. These fill the carbies before you crank the car over, for easier starting and less starter motor wear and tear.

 

Either a blanking plate can be fitted to the block, or take the valves and cut the pushrod from the old manual pump and use it as a dummy for originality. I fitted an electric pump safely in the rear axle bay, as they like to be gravity fed from the tank.

 

If the existing pump body is cracked, try a local Bareco Fergie tractor parts outlet. The owner of Bareco in Sydney is a mad TR fanatic with a supercharged TR3.

 

If you need another repair kit, locally made Goss kits are 1st class. Goss is a division of GUD which also makes Ryco filters.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

 

 

[Rhodri]

Jim, the same thing happened to me, the alloy is not good to restake and the valves are so flimsy. I bought a new pump in the end.