Oh dear - bit depressed now..

[ChrisGrainge]

Well.. I was hoping that I could manage to patch a small bit of the floor - but actually it appears it would be best to replace it. I've got a good spot welder, so that isn't an issue, but the other floor and inner sill is in perfect nick, and I don't really want to cut the whole car in half when one side of it doesn't need it. Also I don't have an easy way to get the body off and upside down, which I guess is the easiest way to get at all the spot welds etc (also if I did that, the likelihood is that it would all twist and bend horribly getting it back on the chassis with just one floor / sill in..)

 

So.. any suggestions how to approach this? My favoured method at the moment is to lift the body up, get at the welds you can't touch when its on the chassis, then put it back for stability and remove all the other welds - replace the floor, reverse the process, then replace the sills.... sound stupid??

 

Any help gratefully received!

 

Chris

[stuart]

Well.. I was hoping that I could manage to patch a small bit of the floor - but actually it appears it would be best to replace it. I've got a good spot welder, so that isn't an issue, but the other floor and inner sill is in perfect nick, and I don't really want to cut the whole car in half when one side of it doesn't need it. Also I don't have an easy way to get the body off and upside down, which I guess is the easiest way to get at all the spot welds etc (also if I did that, the likelihood is that it would all twist and bend horribly getting it back on the chassis with just one floor / sill in..)

 

So.. any suggestions how to approach this? My favoured method at the moment is to lift the body up, get at the welds you can't touch when its on the chassis, then put it back for stability and remove all the other welds - replace the floor, reverse the process, then replace the sills.... sound stupid??

 

Any help gratefully received!

 

Chris

 

If you put a brace across the door gap and leave the top section of the outer sill in place (i.e. the flat top and angle where the rubber sits)until the last minute before you fit a new outer then the shell will remain stiff enough to do all sorts if you are only taking one floor out. Hardest welds to get to when removing a floor without a major lift and/or turning it upside down is the ones along the tunnel lip underneath the inside edge of the floor. (Dont forget the small bits of braze along the side of the tunnel on the top side edge of the floor as well)

Stuart.

[Ashley James]

I don't know how much they have in common but on my TR3A we've removed the front wing, cut off the front lower portion of the rear one, jammed the body somewhere handy and then cut out all the sills and the floor. We've packed the floor up as recommended in the Moss catalogue and popped the floor in attached the sills, tacked on the bottom of the B post so the door shuts are accurate and welded it all back in.

 

If the TR3A is relevant I can post some pics.

 

Ash

[stuart]

I don't know how much they have in common but on my TR3A we've removed the front wing, cut off the front lower portion of the rear one, jammed the body somewhere handy and then cut out all the sills and the floor. We've packed the floor up as recommended in the Moss catalogue and popped the floor in attached the sills, tacked on the bottom of the B post so the door shuts are accurate and welded it all back in.

 

If the TR3A is relevant I can post some pics.

 

Ash

 

Unfortunately the difference is too much for it to be relevant.

Stuart.