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Hi All Clever people in Peerless Warwick Land

Last MOT I had advisory in rear wheel bearing play on my Warwick. Now its that time again for my MOT. So I need to do something. From the "whats it off page" on the Peerless-gt web site it gives you the bearing type.I think they are the same for both cars? If they are they are:-

 

Timken 2523S & 2585.(Race & Cup) These two parts assemble to make one bearing, 4 complete bearings are needed per car.

Great. Off I go and try to order some. bit of a shock then. I have spoken to a recommended bearing supplier. He tells me list price ( He said he could do some discount) the bearings are £250.48 Plus VAT. I fall on floor as I had looked up normal TR3 bearing prices. The bearing people say also Listed is the same bearing without the S in the decription. These are £73.60 plus VAT. The dimmensions are exact the only differance is the weight. The S is 10g lighter. Timken will not tell him the differance as the worry people phone get advise and buy cheaper ones.

Has anyone got any knowlege if I must have S or not.Or what is the differance of S or not S. Even if I have cheaper non timken would they last would be my worry to.

I await the knowlege from the learned world

Thanks

Duncan

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Hi Duncan,

 

As far as I'm aware the Warwick utilises the same bearing as the Peerless - Ian McDonald should be able to confirm that, or Nigel Cluley.

 

The S suffix in the bearing description is relevant - I can't for the life of me remember the technical explanation, but the higher spec is there for a good reason ! The plain 2523 won't do the job. I had some at a good price recently, from the USA, but they went to Atle.

 

You may possibly be able to shim the existing bearing sufficiently to take up the play, and I'd suggest that's your first route - that, and repacking with decent grease.

 

Just because there are two bearings to each hub, doesn't mean they're both gone each side, may only be one, the outer . . . .

 

Trawl through google and you should be able to get the price for Timken units, you're aiming for less than £50 each inc vat - don't touch cheap label jobs with a bargepole.

 

I'll be at the Shepton Mallet show next weekend, I'll keep an eye open for you, chap who is usually there sometimes has them - but under another description, different application, and they come cheaper nos . . . .

 

Let me know if you'd like me to hunt, PM or email if you need any phone numbers.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Hi Duncan,

 

best UK source for Timken that I am aware of - price of £40.75 (+ vat), and UK postage is a flat rate £1.50 (+vat). "Bearings Online" is R&M, at least you're dealing with proper bearing people who know their stuff.

 

http://www.bearings-online.co.uk/item/Brand_Timken-Tapered-Roller-Bearings_25852523S---2585-99401_15_0_1677_0.html

 

Some of the internet suppliers quote over a hundred quid for the equivalent unit from manufacturers I've never heard of . . . . or in some cases, whose products I wouldn't even consider using.

 

But don't get carried away with buying bearings until you're sure you really do need them, as opposed to servicing and adjusting the existing items . . . .

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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I had the same question about the S when I rebuilt the axle in my Warwick. In the case of the 2523 and the 2523-S, the difference is in the Housing Fillet Radius. This is the cup part that seats in the housing to the shoulder inside. The S is 0.06 in radius and the other is 0.05 in. Not a lot of difference but if the radius doesn't clear, the load will be on the edge and not on the flat of the cup against the shoulder. I went with the engineers and put in the 2523-S.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had the same question about the S when I rebuilt the axle in my Warwick. In the case of the 2523 and the 2523-S, the difference is in the Housing Fillet Radius. This is the cup part that seats in the housing to the shoulder inside. The S is 0.06 in radius and the other is 0.05 in. Not a lot of difference but if the radius doesn't clear, the load will be on the edge and not on the flat of the cup against the shoulder. I went with the engineers and put in the 2523-S.

 

 

Thanks for the info. I have taken hub apart now. Bearings ok. Only going to replace the shim. Then put back together.

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