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Front damper removal/refit


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Has anyone got any tips on removing and then replacing the front dampers. I have just removed mine for the first time in 30 years and had to saw off the lower of the two nuts at the top of the damper. I just couldn't stop the damper from rotating.

How do I tighten up the nuts when refitting the dampers. Presumably we should be looking at a torque of around 28 lb ft but how do you stop the damned thing from rotating. I'm sure I've read somewhere that you shouldn't let the damper rotate but I don't see how you can avoid it or why it would damage the damper.

I'm sure someone will have a blindingly obvious solution that I've overlooked.

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Les - I'm not familiar with the OE dampers, but a lot that I've seen have a slot at the top of the thread above the nuts. It could be so full of grime after 30 years, I would be surprised if you could see it. I also think that after 30 yrs, replacement is probably well overdue, so butchering the old ones could actually be cathartic!!

I can recommend getting an adjustable type as you can compensate for wear over the coming years by tweeking them from time to time. I have Konis and find them great as you also have flexibilty in setting up the ride stiffness.

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I replaced mine yesterday as part of an ongoing body off rebuild . when I took off the originals I grabbed the top with molegrips then loosened the lower nut . My replacements are Gaz adjustables & have a square section at the top for a small spanner and only 1 nyloc nut . The books I have (Haynes & factory workshop manuals ) do  not give a torque setting but state to tighten the nut untill it nips the rubber then to use the lock nut . I think the idea is to give it a fit which holds it in place without moving but is not tight enough to cause the rubber to split when in use.

Good luck.

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Hi Roger

Thanks for your reply. There is definitely no slot in the top of my (original) dampers. I have just rebuilt the front suspension with poly bushes and want to see what difference this makes before moving on to adjustable dampers. Definitely something for the future though.

 

Hi Scotty

Thanks for your advice. I couldn't get Molegrips to hold! I like the idea of just tightening the nut until it nips the rubber (or polyurethane in my case) This is not mentioned in my Leyland Repair Operation Manual so I'm grateful for your advice.

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