Outer UJ greasing

[88V8]

I was going to drill the top rather than the bottom, as there is an unstressed area there.

The stress in the t/a arises at the hub and is transmitted in bump mode to the two brackets via the leverage point of the spring. Braking and cornering also intensify the stresses but are subsidiary to the repetitive effect of pure bump loading.

 

The Williams restoration book shows in chapter 13 the main cracking points, which are all beneath the t/a. This is one reason that I would drill it from above. Even the casting extension to the shock mount exhibits a propensity to cracking, although this would be an irritant rather than something that would land you in the scenery.

 

The other reason for my 'above' preference is that the designer clearly believed that one area was not subject to significant stress; the area to the back of the top right of the t/a. This is shown by the presence of a stress raiser in the form of the sharp corner where the t/a is fattened to accomodate the drilling for the cable anchorage. All other areas of the arm feature gradual sectional changes or radii consistent with a desire to avoid the crack propagation that typically arises from sharp sectional changes.

If the casting had been more assiduous in respect of sectional changes and smoothed radii, it might be less prone to cracking than it apparently is, but then it was never intended to last so long nor to carry the loads of such large and sticky tyres and stiff dampers that we now inflict upon it.

 

In the below picture, the longer piece of tape represents the approx boundary of the stress path from the hub studs to the inner t/a mount. The smaller piece of tape indicates the area where I would drill. This is in a compression zone, and outside the main area of stress.

 

As I previously mentioned, even though the area is largely unstressed, I would consider it prudent to pay attention to the method of drilling and the finishing/polishing of the hole in order to avoid any possibility of cracks developing.

 

When next I have the t/a off the car, or the shaft out of the t/a, I shall drill accordingly. ATM there is no purpose as I have no nipples to grease.

 

Boldly go

 

Ivor

 

PS: as an entirely subsidiary and unrelated matter, but as it is in the picture, you will note that the outboard shock mount is secured by a through-bolt & nut. This is necessary because the PO fitted the shocks with no shake washers beneath the bolts, they worked loose, and this one hammered the thread in the captive nut such that it would no longer hold. The longer bolt effected a complete cure.

 

Edited May 8, 2009 by 88V8

[Tony Millward]

Well, after a careful bit of measuring, I drilled the hole(s). As suggested by Ivor, I smoothed off the edges too. Piccy below:

 

Grease Nipple Hole

 

The little shiney round thingy in the middle of the hole is the grease nipple. The measurement is actually 4 1/8" from the bach of the hub flange.

 

Cheers

 

Tony

Edited May 27, 2009 by Tonymill

[88V8]

Well, after a careful bit of measuring, I drilled the hole(s). As suggested by Ivor, I smoothed off the edges too. Piccy below:

 

Caramba

Is this an F1 car that used to be a TR6 ?

And was that once a humble trailing arm ?

 

I wouldn't have thought to drill that side as it's on the stress path between the spring and the hub, on the other hand it's in compression so unlikely to cause any bother and I can see the shock conversion probably makes the other side inaccessible.

Still can't believe you're going to get this car wet.

 

Ivor

[Tony Millward]

Caramba

Is this an F1 car that used to be a TR6 ?

And was that once a humble trailing arm ?

 

I wouldn't have thought to drill that side as it's on the stress path between the spring and the hub, on the other hand it's in compression so unlikely to cause any bother and I can see the shock conversion probably makes the other side inaccessible.

Still can't believe you're going to get this car wet.

 

Ivor

 

Hi Ivor,

 

Does'nt your car get wet when you wash it..(assuming you do)... There's no real difference. The only real hazard to our cars is Salt....and we don't get that here.

 

She'll be used all weathers (providing I manage to fit the soft top well.. )...All is good.

 

Tony

[ChrisR-4A]

Hi Ian,

as many of the UJs available today are sealed with no facillity for fitting gease nipples I wonder if anyone has experience or evidence that the greaseable ones last longer.

Having said that I would still fit greasable ones to the inner joints and the propshaft, but even with these and a standard hand operated gun how often do you see grease coming out of all 4 bearings.

Sometimes with a garage pressure greaser this is possible but it only takes a couple of needle rollers to go dry in the joint and it won't last long.

 

If you keep removing the shafts to grease the UJs you will probably end up with some stripped hub retaining studs. These are best left alone once fitted correctly and torqued up with new nyloc nuts.

 

Good Luck Chris

Edited May 31, 2009 by potts4a

[JOHN'S TR6]

Excuse me for been a bit lame on this one, but the back of the

car is an area I have had to visit far less than the front.

Following some horrible mettalic scrapping noises from the back and a

vibration it seems like it is time ( hopefully not too late).

 

The greasing of the Outer UJs does not appear on the Lubrication

service chart where as the inner ones do.

 

Were the outer UJs supposed to last the expected servicable life time of

the car (Obviously not 40 years)

 

Also I can't find on the Lubrication chart the correct grease to use.

Do I use general Moly filled?.

Edited June 3, 2009 by JOHN'S TR6

[88V8]

...some horrible mettalic scrapping noises from the back and a vibration it seems like it is time ( hopefully not too late).

 

The greasing of the Outer UJs does not appear on the Lubrication service chart where as the inner ones do.

 

Were the outer UJs supposed to last the expected servicable life time of the car (Obviously not 40 years)

 

Also I can't find on the Lubrication chart the correct grease to use. Do I use general Moly filled?.

From the back? Thought you said the front.... If the ujs are that far gone then greasing them is a waste of time.

 

No, it's funny isn't it that the outer ujs weren't supposed to be greased, which of course is why there's no access for greasing.

I wonder, just a theory, if they were intended by Engineering to have long-life non-greasables - why it is that the 'better' ujs are non-greasable, I know not - but then either some inspisated penny-pinching ghit in Accounts, or perhaps Purchasing in a moment of crisis, decided to subsititute greasables and the chaps on the assembly line just put them in heyho.

Or of course it may be that subsequent repairers or parsimonious owners (if such things exist) substituted greasables without contemplating the inability to grease.

If you were able to grease, a standard high-melting point grease would be fine.

 

Anyway, no amount of greasing will fix whatever is making your noise. If you return to your 'noise' thread and describe it more fully we can have another go at suggesting expensive options for you to explore.

 

Ivor

[JOHN'S TR6]

Ivor

You are correct that they are probably close to being shot.

What I am hoping to do is subdue them a little in an attempt

to indentify if they are the culpret of the noise and the vibration.

Moss want £200.00 each

Any one know where I can get two new drive shafts at a good price .

Only needs to be for a 125bhp car.

 

John

Edited June 3, 2009 by JOHN'S TR6