AndrewMAshton Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 Hello, me again, Winter project proceeding well, front wings off (no, and I mean no corrosion behind), front suspensions stripped down a put back together with polybushes, so feeloing rather pleased with myself, until today. 18 months ago I had an Advisory at the MOT that the o/s wheel bearing needed replacement, I changed the ball joints as advised and left the wheel bearings as I couldn't detect any play, I thought I had been proved right when the car sailed through the next MOT. As I had bought the wheelbearings and all bits were off the car I thought I may as well change the bearings, n/s as you would expect big hammer, solid drift dislodge the inner bearing race, pressed in with hydraulic ram and solid, o/s different, inner race came out by hand and new race went in by hand, all put together, torqued up as per book and I have play between the hub and the axle, I think my terminology is correct, the race I refer to is the round steel housing that the bearings fit into. Is it a new hub or can I somehow secure the race into the bearing housing that makes it solid now but removeable in the future, Thanks in advance for your help, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eyetee Posted February 22, 2009 Report Share Posted February 22, 2009 Fact that origonal baring and new slipped in suggests the new hub is over sized to the baring housing. Possible to score (chisel and pin hammer) both the housing and hub faces which will reduce the tollerance and perhaps lock tight or solvent. Few MOT station appreciate classic British engineering, when fitting stub axle nuts tighten up and back off and lock with split pin, this does create the slightest play in wheel, too tight and baring is under pressure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dazzer Posted February 23, 2009 Report Share Posted February 23, 2009 Hi Andrew The front wheel bearings are easy to adjust once you have a feel for what you are trying to achieve. I did it for years as an apprentice and mechanic. The trade off is when the split pin wont quite fit through the castellated nut... do you go tighter? or do you back off slightly. Its all a question of feel. It's usually slightly tighter by the way without putting undue pressure on the bearing. I would never use a torque setting on a tapered roller bearing and it sounds as though the inner race had been spinning in the hub for it to be loose. My advice would be to replace the suspect hub. Cheers Darren PS I work in Harrogate! If you need advice just drop me a line. 07929 800365 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewMAshton Posted February 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2009 Hi there, many thanks for your help, always appreciated, I am taking a combination of the two, try the loctite first and if that doesn;t work invest in a replacement hub, Dazzer, I live in Harrogate but work in Ipswich (its a long story), and the car is down here with me, gives me something to do in the evenings when I am not working, If I still have problems I will be in touch, Regards, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SuzanneH Posted February 23, 2009 Report Share Posted February 23, 2009 Hi Andrew, thebearing outer cup that is loose can be set in more securely, if you feel that is what is needed, using one of the loctite recipes. Find a local bearing outlet from your 'yellow pages' and they will advise on the best one. Yes it does work, serious engineering projects are now using loctite with a runing fit where previously an interference fit was required. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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