Accelerator pedal TR4

[Rhodri]

I have just put the pedals in my rebuild- LHD to RHD conversion- but the throttle pedal is a long way from the floor at full throttle. The pad bit is between 4 and 5 inches away. When the pedal is fully up, the distance is about 7 and 1/2 inches. Is this distance right or excessive? I would have thought at full throttle the pad should be 1 or 2 inches from the floor? I appreciate that I will have to put a stop on the floor or pedal, but it seems that it will have to be pretty long one as it stands at the moment.

 

Also, with the pedal fully up, the cranked bit is in contact with the brake and clutch pedal return springs- is this right?

 

Of course I have inserted the roll pin in the operating lever in the engine bay, so it will be almost impossible to get the pedal out and, if it needs bending, I will have to do it in-situ- sounds like a PITA !

 

If one of you kind gentlemen finds time to take a quick measurement sometime over the weekend I shall be extremely grateful. Meantime, I have plenty of other bits to be doing!

Rod

[kev.w]

I have just put the pedals in my rebuild- LHD to RHD conversion- but the throttle pedal is a long way from the floor at full throttle. The pad bit is between 4 and 5 inches away. When the pedal is fully up, the distance is about 7 and 1/2 inches. Is this distance right or excessive? I would have thought at full throttle the pad should be 1 or 2 inches from the floor? I appreciate that I will have to put a stop on the floor or pedal, but it seems that it will have to be pretty long one as it stands at the moment.

 

Also, with the pedal fully up, the cranked bit is in contact with the brake and clutch pedal return springs- is this right?

 

Of course I have inserted the roll pin in the operating lever in the engine bay, so it will be almost impossible to get the pedal out and, if it needs bending, I will have to do it in-situ- sounds like a PITA !

 

If one of you kind gentlemen finds time to take a quick measurement sometime over the weekend I shall be extremely grateful. Meantime, I have plenty of other bits to be doing!

Rod

 

Rod,

 

I've just checked my 4A and assuming it is the same as a 4, the measurements I have are 4.5" fully up from the bottom edge of the oval foot pedal (no rubber) vertically down to the carpet and fully depressed is 3". I can confirm that the cranked (horizontal) part of the pedal does just touch the return springs on my car.

Hope this is of some help.

 

Kev.w

[stuart]

Rod its more the relationship to the brake pedal that you need to get lined up nicely for those "Heel and toe" manouvers and also making sure that you are getting full travel for the carb levers. My throttle pedal arm just misses the springs (often a source of a squeak if touching) but it took a while to get them right as you alter one thing and then another is wrong! Just had a measure and I have about 3 1/2" clearance from the back of the pedal where the small bracket for the stop is to the floor stop and my stop is about 3/4" out from the floor. I get full travel on my 40s with that but the carb linkage is my own design so all those measurements may be irrelevant for you!

If you need pictures PM me your email address and I will send some over on Monday

Stuart.

[Rhodri]

Thank you both, it seems that my pedal is indeed 2 to 3 inches too far out from the floor. Taking your point, Stuart, the pedal is higher than the brake, so definitely needs judicious bending. If possible I will try to clear the springs at the top as well, but as Kev says, it seems normal for a light contact.

 

It must be due to using LHD and RHD parts and other secondhand bits and, perhaps, small errors in measurements!

Rod

[ianc]

If you want to be able to heel-and-toe, the accelerator pedal needs to be almost level with the brake pedal when both are at rest, and the accelerator pedal needs a clamp-on extension piece which brings the bottom end closer to the brake pedal - in the 1960s, one used to be able to buy such an extension, but it's easy to make one with a piece of aluminium sheet, counter-sinking the clamping holes into the aluminium.

In order not to shear the pin in the accelerator linkage when bending to align with the other pedals, one needs to insert a wooden wedge on the driver's side of the bulkhead so that the force is applied solely in that area and NOT to the pin. A bit of a fiddle, but not too difficult.

Ian Cornish

[Rhodri]

As ever Ian, you are right- I was wondering how to bend it all without breaking anything! Paddy Hopkirk used to sell the accelerator pads for Minis I seem to recall.

Rod