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TR6 steering column joints in 4A


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Hi, I'd like to mod my 4A to use the TR6 universal joint rather than the 4A flexible ones. Looking at an exploded diagram of the TR6 column on eg Rimmer Bros it looks like the bottom one is solid but the top is flexible....is that correct?

 

So am I right in thinking that on a 4A you would change to solid universal joints at each end of the column because it is splined at both ends? In which case it should be a relatively straightforward job?

 

thanks

 

Andy

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Hi Andy,

Have not tried it on a 4a but you are correct about the 6 (and the 5) original columns had UJ near the rack and doughnut at the top. I have replaced the top donut in my 5 with a UJ using the 4a lower portion (minus the rubber doughnuts, which are smaller on the 4a than the one on the 5 & 6). So I have a 5 which is much the same body dimensions as the 4a and I used the 4a lower portion... ergo it should work as you suggested. Worth while mod especially if you ditch the rubber steering rack mounts for solid alloy ones.

 

Cheers

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Hi Andy,

I recently fitted a TR6 universal joint to replace the lower rubber coupling on my TR4A. The unit was purchased from one of the well known suppliers of Triumph parts. The unit was, of course, a modern reproduction. When I fitted it intially the cross bolt was fitted it did not lock the splined end of the column into the new universal joint. The reason for this was the hole in the universal joint did not line up with the machined recess in the splined end of the column. I had to drill out the bolt hole to a larger size in order that the bolt, when fitted, locked across the recess in the splines. Once this was done, no problem.

I also fitted a new rubber doughnut at the top of the column. A tip for fitting the bolts through a new rubber doughnut is to put it into a vice, with jaw protectors fitted, the bolts can then be easily fitted. Don't forget the lock wire to finish off the job.

Grahamgl

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My car had solid rack mountings from the start and now has TR6-type universal joints at both ends of the steering column, so no lost movement. Important to have the wheels properly balanced, of course. With 195/65 tyres on 5.5 J rims, it doesn't kick any harder than it used to when fitted with rubber couplings and 165/70 tyres on the same rims.

Further tip on fitting new rubber couplings: place a large jubilee clip round the rubber and tighten until the bolt holes are aligned (thanks to Neil Revington and Carl, whom I watched as they fittted a coupling at Malvern a few years ago).

Ian Cornish

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I fitted an original TR6 u joint to the bottom end on my TR4. No modifications needed, and it solved the loose coupling issue I had. (and I expect to get a little grief from someone taking that last comment the wrong way!)

 

Randy

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