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Hydraulic Clutch Release


Guest Wyn

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I've had my gearbox out again this weekend and checked the measurements of my hydraulic clutch bearing housing and all seems to be in order, thanks Harry for your assistance and for faxing me the fitting instructions which I could not have done without. I changed my Master Cylinder to 5/8" as instructed before using the clutch for the first time. A pedal stop was also fitted. I now have an inspection hole in the bellhousing, dismissed with the pedal stop and when the clutch pedal is to the floor, I have a bearing travel of less than half an inch, possibly around 3/8", maximum allowable is .7" (including freeplay of which there is virtually nothing but just enough). I've taken the car for a run, when cold all seems OK, but when warmed up, I can't engage reverse. I'm wondering if I should try a 3/4" master cylinder and then of course revert to using a pedal stop. Has anyone had similar experiences? As I would expect, I can't find my old Master Cylinder!!

 

Regards

Wyn

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<_< Hello Wyn

Please check the pedal assembly where the push rod connects that it is round with no play first

Well done with the rugby as much as it hurt's best team won

Edited by ntc
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Wyn,

Without checking my master cylinder I am pretty sure it is a 3/4".Now why you can not engage first and reverse when hot is something I will discuss with a gearbox specialist and let you know the findings by phone tomorrow night.It may well be a fault in the gearbox(hope not!).

Regards Harry. :rolleyes:

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Neil - No problem with the push rod connection, I managed to get another couple of millemeters out of the adjustable rod I bought off Revington and tried it again but no difference.

 

Harry - That would be great. I don't have the necessary technical knowledge to establish whether this is indeed a release mechanism problem or a gearbox problem. I too hope it's not the gearbox, it's just had a top spec total rebuild. It's doing my bl...y head in now. I was told I needed to reduce the M/C to 5/8th and it would be interesting to know what size yours is Harry (Master Cylinder that is!) since you informed me that your pedal stop is near the bottom. If that is the case with a 3/4" I've no hope with mine. Do you know what size your M/C is Bob since we had the clutch fitted by the same supplier? I'll pm you.

Thanks both,

 

Regards

Wyn

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Hi Wyn

 

Just been out and checked my setup. The mastercylinder is a 5/8" Girling and the pedal stop extends back about 1" and is fitted up at the point where the first slight bend in the clutch pedal is (just down from the crosshaft at the top). Hope that makes sense.

 

Bob

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Well blow me, I've just fitted a 3/4" Master Cylinder today, it better work now. Just bleeding the system to go. Just thought I'd mention Bob that I bumped the rear end on Sunday when taking the car off the ramp following taking the gearbox out, jack slipped and the jack handle decided to leave a nice dent in the rear valance, it was all my fault, trying to cut corners and paid the price. Sod the car, it's green and it's cursed I think!!

 

Thanks

Wyn

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Thanks Bill, I have this site as one of my favourites but unfortunately there's nothing on this release mechanism. I've now bled the system and just need to jack up the rear wheels, set the pedal stop and see what happens. Cross fingers.

 

Wyn

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Bu**er me Wyn, you're not half having fun and games with the car. Let me know how the pedal stop setting goes. The line I had from the supplier was that a bigger cylinder and no stop would force the donut device off the end of the shaft. Can't quite follow that but there you go...we've both got the T -Shirt as they say. Must say though that mine seems to work fine on that set up and the clutch is quite smooth to operate. Good luck !!!

 

Bob

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Hello Wyn,

 

I replied in your engine post regarding your clutch but I see that this post has answered a couple of questions I posed.

 

You mention that you were advised to fit a smaller bore master cylinder, that indicates to me that the standard (3\4"?) would give too much fluid and over travel the clutch? (Hence the need for a stop?) I take it the slave has no inbuilt stop to prevent over travel?

 

The half inch travel you mention should be adequate to operate the clutch, but I would suggest a chat with someone in the technical department of the clutch manufacturer as to what is the acceptable range of movement to operate the clutch satisfactorily? I understand that too much travel as well as too little can also cause problems?

 

 

Alec

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Clutch better now with a 3/4" Master Cylinder. Did a 6 hour round trip to Cheltenham today for a Rolling Road session and although a bit stiff getting into first gear at times, reverse seems OK and I have a little left to play with in the pedal stop.

I will assume all will be OK and cross fingers.

 

Thanks to everyone who have contributed with forum posts, emails and pm's, very much appreciated.

 

I'm off to get drunk!!

 

Regards

Wyn

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