shuey Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 noticed that on long m/way runs oil pressure dopes normaly it`s around 65-75 so really good but after giving it some welly it drops to around 35-45 then when slow down and on normal roads back to good pressure would an oil cooler cure this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shuey Posted October 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Hi Shuey, An oil cooler might alleviate the apparent symptom, but it shouldn't really be necessary on even a mildly tuned, let alone a standard, 6-pot. More to the point, what is the underlying cause ? Before looking at the oil cooler option, I'd prefer to start by thoroughly flushing both oil and water systems, and I'd also check mixture and timing, and ensure a pukka oil filter. Cheers, Alec thanks Alec it`s got a new(1000miles) engine and all water ways flushed rad is all running fine the car shows no sign of overheating infact it never gets above 1/4 hot it still has the standard oil filter could this make the differance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 An oil cooler may well help as might quality oil. TRs hail from the early days of motorways which, particularly on the continent allow prolonged spells of sustained high speed which can get the oil hotter than normal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Hi Shuey, We could get a better handle on your problem if the pertinent rpm were given for the pressures you cite - if 35 psi is what you're getting at 2000+ rpm it's way too low, but if it's at 700 rpm then it's fine for a new, tight engine ( like mine with 5 miles on it so far ). An oil cooler will make a difference for prolonged highway cruising at 70, but like Andy says it's really unnecessary unless you're really flogging it - say steady speeds of 80+ mph in summer. I found it requires at least 30 miles of sustained 70+ mph to reach max temperature ( lowest pressure ). As the archives will show, not all oil pumps today perform like originals - the clearances tend to be larger for one thing. This is the cheapest place to start if you have to get into it. I would check to ensure the pressure relief valve is seating right before that... For those in the U.S. : I have been suspicious about the viscosity of Castrol 20W-50 in recent years, so ventured off into Pennzoil ( no difference ) and lately Kendall. This last one defiinitely gives higher oil pressure readings and comes recommended by some non-TR types too. Just FWIW... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 As the archives will show, not all oil pumps today perform like originals - the clearances tend to be larger for one thing. This is the cheapest place to start if you have to get into it. I would check to ensure the pressure relief valve is seating right before that... That would be my main suspect, some 'new' pumps can be worse than the one your just about to throw away! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 I had one new oil pump that was so poor that you could have swapped the oil pressure guage & rev counter! Always check new oil pumps to make sure they are within the tolerances in the manual - if not send them back before wasting time, effort, sump gaskets & oil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ron Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Hi Shuey I've got serious doubts as to whether a cooler is needed for road use in the UK, I normally tend to avoid motorway type driving in the 6 if I can but during the summer I had a long run [50 m+] on the M8 and 9 on a warm day with a heavily loaded car at what would best be described as 'motorway speeds' and the oil pressure settled at 65psi from 2500revs upwards. I tend to agree with previous posters, I would look for problems elsewhere first. Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IanR Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Hi all, Lots of people seem to fit an oil cooler on the assumption that is a required item. I believe that instead of fitting an oil cooler fit an oil temperature gauge first. If the oil is overheating THEN fit an oil cooler if its not (which I expect) then there is no need IMO. CHeers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shuey Posted October 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Hi I`ll try to explain start car from cold oil presure straight up to 85+ back down to 65-75 when warm at 50-70mph even if driven hard on single carriageway but if I take it on a long dual carriage or motorway for anything over 10 miles at a steady 70mph thats when pressure drops then when backon to single "A"roads pressure returns to normal It`s got valvoline 20/50 semi did have millers 20/50 both do the same Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 Hi I`ll try to explain start car from cold oil presure straight up to 85+ back down to 65-75 when warm at 50-70mph even if driven hard on single carriageway but if I take it on a long dual carriage or motorway for anything over 10 miles at a steady 70mph thats when pressure drops then when backon to single "A"roads pressure returns to normal It`s got valvoline 20/50 semi did have millers 20/50 both do the same i fitted a oil temp gauge, when the weather is warm and mway driving fast for more than 10 miles the oil temp goes up to about 140.c and stays there even after slowing down for a long time 10 mins+.oil pressure didnt drop below 50.psi at 1500 rpm. however if i had to stop at a junction revs below 1000 rpm oil light flashing. i have since fitted a 13 row oil cooler. now its too cold i have taped over the cooler and it only gets to 90.c at mway driving.if your thinking of fitting a cooler which would cure your problem fit a small one. i would agree with the others, sounds like the oil pump.if its a new one its got too big a gap between the bottom of the rotor and base plate.which will not pump right when the oil is very thin.it can be fixed. ps did i sell you a dashboard. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shuey Posted October 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 i fitted a oil temp gauge, when the weather is warm and mway driving fast for more than 10 miles the oil temp goes up to about 140.c and stays there even after slowing down for a long time 10 mins+.oil pressure didnt drop below 50.psi at 1500 rpm. however if i had to stop at a junction revs below 1000 rpm oil light flashing.i have since fitted a 13 row oil cooler. now its too cold i have taped over the cooler and it only gets to 90.c at mway driving.if your thinking of fitting a cooler which would cure your problem fit a small one. i would agree with the others, sounds like the oil pump.if its a new one its got too big a gap between the bottom of the rotor and base plate.which will not pump right when the oil is very thin.it can be fixed. ps did i sell you a dashboard. richard hi richard yes i did and very good it looks now it`s in the car think i willput the old oil pumpback in see if that makes any differance dont really want to put oil cooler in unless i have to Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 hi richard yes i did and very good it looks now it`s in the car think i willput the old oil pumpback in see if that makes any differance dont really want to put oil cooler in unless i have to good glad its ok,the dash that is. when you take the oil pump out check the gap between the base of the rotor and body with a straight edge.it needs/or can be made as small as possible 2 thou.the body of the pump needs reducing in height by maching or lapping to get the minimum clearance.or try the steel bits from the new pump in the old body if its the same later type. i did have a article by d vizard tuning triumph 2000 explaining the pump mod .but computer recently gone tits up and its gone.perhaps some one else might have a link to it. richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted October 5, 2007 Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 Vizzard Tuning Manual Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted October 5, 2007 Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 Vizzard Tuning Manual thanks for that. dont suppose any one got a link to g thomas book???? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shuey Posted October 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 firstly thanks for advice to every one. just to update took sump of yesterday to replace "new" oil pump with the orig found the strainer had fallen result quick easy fix I did take the pump of and check tollerances and they`re all very good so put the new one back it`s now holding 50psi at tick over 75-80 at 3000rpm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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