heliguy Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 Hello all, its been awhile since i have posted here, but i do stop by from time to time. This forum is a wealth of information! I have searched the archives, and have found quite a bit on repairs to the front diff bridge, but my question concerns the rear one. Does anyone have a picture of a boxed in rear mount? Is it required? The body is off my car at the moment so access will not be a problem, i just want something to show the welder what has been done in the past. Oh yes, one last thing. All the pins are tight, and i can see no cracking anywhere. Shall i have the welder weld a doubler over top of each pin? Again, thanks in advance, Mitch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barry Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 Hi Mitch, I have sent you a PM. Barry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Hello all, its been awhile since i have posted here, but i do stop by from time to time. This forum is a wealth of information!I have searched the archives, and have found quite a bit on repairs to the front diff bridge, but my question concerns the rear one. Does anyone have a picture of a boxed in rear mount? Is it required? The body is off my car at the moment so access will not be a problem, i just want something to show the welder what has been done in the past. Oh yes, one last thing. All the pins are tight, and i can see no cracking anywhere. Shall i have the welder weld a doubler over top of each pin? Again, thanks in advance, Mitch Mitch, you absolutely should reinforce the front diff mounts. With the body off it is a piece of cake and a PITA with the body on. I would lightly grind the surface of the plate where the pins exit as often there are cracks that you cant see until you really clean up that area and after any cracks have been repaired, box in both mounts on both sides. You can make your own plates. Use a cardboard template and then cut the plates so they can be welded on all 4 sides. Cut off a lower corner to allow water to exit. I would seriously consider reinforcing the rear cross member where it attaches to the frame especially if you are planning any performance mods. This area of the TR6 was flimsy at best and then we add 30+ years of corrosion and stress. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
heliguy Posted August 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 I would seriously consider reinforcing the rear cross member where it attaches to the frame especially if you are planning any performance mods. This area of the TR6 was flimsy at best and then we add 30+ years of corrosion and stress. Barry and Stan, thanks for the info. Stan, in regards to the rear crossmember where it attaches to the frame, I am assuming that just a couple of gussetts on each side would suffice? I have made some brackets for the front diff mounts, but was curious as to how members addressed ( if at all ) the rear diff mount, or was it just boxed in as well............ cheers, Mitch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 I would seriously consider reinforcing the rear cross member where it attaches to the frame especially if you are planning any performance mods. This area of the TR6 was flimsy at best and then we add 30+ years of corrosion and stress. Barry and Stan, thanks for the info. Stan, in regards to the rear crossmember where it attaches to the frame, I am assuming that just a couple of gussetts on each side would suffice? I have made some brackets for the front diff mounts, but was curious as to how members addressed ( if at all ) the rear diff mount, or was it just boxed in as well............ cheers, Mitch Yes, people do box in the rear cross member also although it doesnt seem as prone to failing as the front. The bigger issue with the rear is tearing away from the frame especially when the motor has been tweaked so at least chip off the slag and make sure it was a good weld to start with. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest P Cobbold Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Mitch, Also look out for fracturing of the pressed steel bracket that bolts to the nose of the diff. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Mitch If you hadn’t managed to get hold of any photos yet, I can E mail you some of mine if you PM me your personal E mail address; it’s easier than trying to reduce them in size to post on the forum & the personal message facility doesn’t seem to allow attachments. You should replace all the diff pins & box them all in; I left the bottom corners of the reinforcing plates open to avoid possibility of any stress concentration being set up by welding. Also check for stress cracks on the top sides; I had them on both sides & welded these up & added reinforcing plates on the underside just to be sure. While the tub is off, check out the centre cruciform (T shirt) & trailing arm chassis sections thoroughly as well; they rust from inside & the extent of any corrosion may not be apparent from the outside. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.