Richardtr3a Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 I need a elecrical specialist who is good at TR repairs. Is there any one left who is good at this work? Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick_nl Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 I need a electrical specialist who is good at TR repairs. Is there any one left who is good at this work? Thank you. Electrics aren't that hard in a 3a. Have you got a good schematic of the wiring diagram ? A while ago i found this version. TR2-4a tr2506 They are in PDF so easy printable, might be useful to print them on a A3 to see the details better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted July 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 Thank you but what I am looking for is a specialist who can rebuild my regulator and who has knowledge of our cars and equipment to check the installation. I understand the wiring diagram but become confused by the ignition warning light which seems to extinguish when the dynamo is pumping a charge up the yellow wire when the other cable to the light seems to bring a live charge from the ignition switch. Why does the light go out? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodri Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 My understanding of the ignition warning light is not much. However when the engine is not running, but the ignition is on, current flows from the switch, towards the dynamo, through the warning light illuminating it. Start the engine and the dynamo gives out a current, and when the current from the dynamo equals the current coming the opposite way from the switch it stops "flowing" thus the light goes out. This may be true or a load of old cobblers, but I believe this is the principal it works on ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve R Posted July 26, 2007 Report Share Posted July 26, 2007 Richard There's not a great deal of electrics in a 3a, I had a similar problem with the light not going out, which I think was caused by a short in the loom. Try taking a couple of pieces of wire and connecting them from the dynamo to the control box, bypassing the loom. Check the output of the dynamo, I seem to remember that if you take them from the control box and connect the two wires together and measure the voltage between them and ground, you should get around 14 volts. And see if you can dig out a replacement control box from somewhere to try, you can get open circuits/arcing because of faulty rivets underneath the connectors. Thanks for the pdf Nick, I've laminated a copy and will keep it as "Garage Art" Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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