body/chassis mounting points

[Laurie]

Hi all

Other than the front two body/chassis mounting points which are easy to locate just by the front wheel arches, where and how many others are there?

Thanks

Laurie

[wheeler]

Laurie

 

Have a look at the Moss or Rimmer catalogue at the chassis page - here is the web link http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/triumph/tr6/chassis it shows the position of the body shell fixing bolts etc. at least re the chassis. You will have to lift up the carpets to see the position of the bolts on the floor of the body shell.

 

Regards

 

Bill

[Richard Crawley]

Unsure if you mean total number or just those under the bonnet! Under the bonnet there are only 4; 2 on the angled suspension turret braces (the front wheel arches) & 2 right at the front near the radiator. There are many others & these can be picked out from the link Bill has posted.

[Laurie]

Thanks for the info. The reason I need to know gets more interesting and one on which I need much advice.

 

I have a project car which I am about to start. The body had been braced and removed for chassis work etc by the original owner who then loosley replaced the body. Door gaps etc were all superb with the tub braced but the chap had not done the body (I think the body should have been done before removal) which requires floors, sills, rear deck etc.

 

Unfortunately the transport company who did the pickup for me removed the braces and loaded the components inside. The shell is now sitting on the chassis with the top rear door gaps open about 1".

 

I need to use the chassis as the jig and have therefore got to get everything back in true and properly braced before any serious bodywork can commence.

 

This is going to be my first time of body off and alignment. Being well aware of the need to get this right I need as much advice as I can acquire

 

Your experiences and guidance would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks

Laurie

Edited April 25, 2007 by Laurie

[Richard Crawley]

Has the chassis been restored & painted? If not this is where you need to start. If it has, I would next fit the engine/gearbox assembly (or at least the gearbox) as it’s best to carry out body alignment with the chassis loaded up. You will need a body mounting kit & you should start by fitting the standard number of packers & rubber mounts shown in the parts manual. You can fit additional spacers at the rear to jack the back end up if the door gaps are tapered but if you do the job properly, you won’t need to.

 

After extensive repairs to the non aligning panels, I fitted the bare body back onto the chassis. The rear inner wings & rear valance had been repaired in situ & so the rear half of my car was still intact. I used the back end as the datum & fitted all the panels forwards, getting the rear door gaps right & then building/adjusting the front half of the car up to this. Building up from the back; new rear deck, doors, inner front wings, front valance, , sills, outer wings, boot, & bonnet; my floors were all OK but all the inner panels & sills were temporarily fixed with self tap screws so they could be removed, worked & replaced in exactly the same position. Chances are you will have to remove/fettle/replace & shift everything around many, many times to get the gaps right. The outer panels have to come off to work on/adjust the fit of the inner panels & this is very time consuming, it took months of constant dismantling & assembly before I was happy that everything fitted as I wanted. I then removed all the outer panels & spot (plug) welded up the front inner panels & valance, constantly refitting the outer panels & checking nothing had moved at each stage. Finally the sills were welded into place, making adjustments to get the rebates correct & the outer wings fitting over them correctly; don’t weld them in place until everything fits, this is the last job.

 

I then removed all the outer panels again, re-fitted the tub bracing & removed the tub from the car so I could seal all the seams & spray the tub inside & out. It was then fitted back onto the car & the outer panels sprayed individually off the car & fitted one at a time; they all fitted perfectly, exactly as they came off.

 

Getting the gaps right & panels fitting properly is not a five minute job; do it right & the car will look fabulous; get it wrong (& many are) & it will look hideous; good luck, you’ll need it!

[Laurie]

Thanks Richard

 

This car is a sept 72, one of the last CP's . 2 owners with 60,000 proven miles until she went into dry storage and boxes in 1984.

 

Going through the boxes and finding all the original bits in generally immaculate condition is like Christmas all over.

 

Chassis has all been done. It is the body that needs the attention and even that is not bad. 23 years of dry storage has still had an effect though.

 

Because it is such a genuine car I was thinking that it may be wiser to have the body done professionally. Any experience of who to go to and who not to?

 

SATB

 

Laurie