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Found 653 results

  1. As the title says i had a problem fitting the four seasons heater valve, the old one came out with no issue, I fitted the new one with some thread sealant even the rubber pipe went back on just fine, But I wasn't sure how tight to do it up, and so as the thread sealant says you can reposition up to four hours I thought I'll tighten it some more to be sure, that's when I noticed the valve would no longer turn with the lever! I took it off again and I can't see where I've bent or pinched the housing, but it didn't take a lot for the top part to start spinning instead of the valve inside, so it's had it. If i get another one, how do I put it back on? How tight is enough? Would the thread sealant (permatex) have held if had I just left it the 72 hours of curing time the first time? Cheers Gareth
  2. Hi All I rebuilt my TR4A engine introducing a lip seal at the rear main and all went well apart from a persistent tink tink tink So I went in search of the cause : looking first at rocker clearance, could a rocker be touching the rocker cover The noise started with the engine and was more noticeable at low revs when the engine made less noise Anyway with covid-19 restrictions I went the whole hog and took the engine and box out and strip the thing down again The lip seal was still there, the camshaft was smooth and not clicking , the cam followers and cam shaft were unmarked The only thing I could find was loose little end bearings According to an engine building friend the gudgeon pin should just slide out of the conrod little end under its own weight: well mine just fell out and were clearly loose in the bearings I could waggle the pin in the rod The conrods were ones that I had ground smooth as in Kastner competition black book years ago when the 4A was a race car so they didn't owe me anything My question to the forum is: who has replaced little end bearings as there is a Churchill tool according to the Workshop manual but more importantly once in the little bearings need to be honed exactly square. Has the forum addressed this in the past as I can't find anything on it (I do have a "Can't find it Gene" according to my wife) Thank you in anticipation of your general advice Michael Hunter
  3. Slowly doing bits and pieces on the rebuild of my 5 and went to fit the fan belt yesterday. I can't fit the belt between the bottom pulley and the steering rack. If I support the sump on a jack and block, loosen gearbox and engine mountings will I be able to shift the block back a couple of millimetres to get sufficient space. ...or am I missing something else. Many thanks as always, Tim
  4. This fault was new to me, the engine wasn't running well, so I tried tuning carbs and ignition and checked the plugs. I didn't get any result and it seemed that it ran even worse after checking the plugs. This continued until I finally discovered that the brass insert in the cap, of one of the caps, was stuck on the plug. Checking the other caps showed that 3 out of 4 brass connectors were loose. Substituted them for considerably more expensive caps and the engine is now running as it should. So, advice to myself, stop buying cheap stuff!
  5. Right gents Engine back in after second rebuild (long story ) and all ready to start. Questions; 1. Do I try to start on my own 2. Do I ask the wife to help me with the starting operation!!!!!!! 3. Do I just look at it for a few months until this frigging lock down is over. Your thoughts Al
  6. I have just learnt that the air plenum on my rebuild project TR5 is from a TR6 and that the inlet manifolds are also the air bleed type. Apart from the originality issue are there any other issues to be considered or do I just fit as if it was a TR6? I have had a look at other photos of 5s including the one for sale at £75,000 described as possibly the best concours 5 there is, and it has the same plenum as the one below. The originality issue is not of any great concern. Mine is the blue one , obviously! Many thanks, Tim
  7. Tim T

    Paint finish

    Could some kind person tell me what the correct paint finish is for the air plenum box on a 1968 TR5. For some reason I thought that is a black crackle ..... Or am I dreaming? Many thanks, Tim
  8. Hi, I would like to hear from anyone that has replaced their Strombergs with SU carbs. Is this worth doing, or even a good idea? Do they work as well with the TR6 engine? Are there other considerations one has to keep in mind? Problems? Thanks in advance.
  9. Hi All I was wondering what people thoughts were on lightening the flywheel of my 4A. Currently the flywheel, including ring gear, is approx. 23 lbs. I'm not looking to go down the competition route so don't need to get it down to a couple of lbs. However, it would be nice to try and increase the responsivness of the car, but not sacrafice the tick over at idle. Is there an ideal amount to shave off or is it better to leave it stock? Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome. Thanks Adam
  10. My TR3a has HS6 carbs on a TR4a manifold. It has been running in that configuration ever since I finished rebuilding it in 2014. In July this year I participated in the Liége-Brescia-Liége Rally and the car ran pretty much faultlessly for the entire trip but when I got home blew the head gasket - literally on the doorstep. I have replaced the head gasket and all seems well in that department but ever since then I have had a problem with adjusting the carbs - or to be more specific, the front one. When I check the plugs for the rear two cylinders, they are the requisite sandy brown colour but the front ones are greyish white indicating they are running lean. This has been going on for some time and in the course of my investigations I have removed the offending carb, dismantled it and blown through the jet with an air line. Re-centralised the jet and made sure that the piston is moving freely, (I have also checked with the engine running and the air filters removed and if I blip the throttle both pistons rise in unison). I have topped up the dashpot with oil, checked and adjusted the float level and made sure that the valve in the float chamber is working properly. I have also removed all the fuel lines to the front carb and blown them through with an air line. And still the front two cylinders are running lean. Yesterday, I even dug out my colourtune plugs (I don't use them much) and fitted one to the front cylinder and one to the rear (no.4) cylinder. No. 4 was blue turning orange - which is correct for my car - it leans out further up the rev range, but no. 1 was pale blue and no matter how much I dropped the jet it didn't change the colour. I ended up with it over 2 mm below the bridge and it was still running lean. So it looks as if I will have to remove the front carb again to find the problem but can anyone give me any clues on where to look please? Surely it has to be a fuel blockage somewhere but where? As an afterthought, I have checked for leaks at the inlet manifold but I can't detect any and to be honest to have an air leak that weakened the mixture when I am driving along at 70 mph it is going to have to be a pretty big hole. Like I said has anyone got any ideas? Rgds Ian
  11. Had car out last night for run up the glens and noticed my idle speed started to creep when the car gets hot....it's about 900 when cold but as it heats up it creeps to about 1200 doesn't (so far) go above about 1200...any help appreciated , Regards Jas
  12. Many years ago I acquired a vacuum gauge as a tuning aid and I recently came across it whilst looking for something else entirely. I have since fitted a vacuum gauge take off to the inlet manifold and run the engine with the gauge attached. It is showing about 15 ins Mercury which from my recollection is a tad low. The needle has a very slight vibration (about + or - 1" Hg). The engine is idliing pretty smoothly at around 800 rpm once warm. I have checked both carbs and the pistons are moving freely and they are balanced. Timing is 12º BTDC at idle. Does anyone out there have any suggestions as to what the issue may be or is 15" about right for a four pot TR engine? I haven't done a compression test yet but the last time I did one they were all pretty consistent at about 165 psi. Rgds Ian
  13. I have a search on ebay that occasionally pops up and sends an email even though I thought I'd cancelled it long ago. Today it sent me a link to H section steel con rods for a TR 4 pot engine for about £200, (which seems pretty cheap), however my main point of interest and the reason for this post is that, looking at the pictures, they don't appear to have any central drilling for an oilway In the workshop manual they make a point that the original TR conrods are drilled to provide lubrication to the small end bush; how come this isn't needed for what I presume is a racing item? Rgds Ian
  14. Hi All Getting well on with my resto now and as most things seem to work I’m trying the first engine start in my ownership and for well over a decade, but I can’t get it to fire and so I need a bit of advice. So it’s got a rebuilt engine (by me) as well as new electrics and the pump, starter and ignition all seem to work. All Pi gear was refurbed properly, by Neil F, and is completely standard so that bit should be good. Now after messing around with quite a few niggly issues, ignition and leaks, all of those seem to be sorted and I have a sparking ignition and leak free fuel system. I’ve cranked the engine over for a while (without plugs) and got oil pressure. I won’t say how much as you might all laugh, but if someone can give me an idea of what the gauge might show on just a starter motor crank that would be great. I might then be happy or not as the case may be, lol. I’ve left the Ign on so the pump is running a good while a good to try to prime the system with fuel and get rid of the air, but are there any tricks to whether that has worked or not? So i connected everything up and attempted to start it several times with no joy. I tested for a spark and thats ok but after the jam jar test no fuel at the injectors. So the questions that occur to me are have I left the fuel pump running enough to get enough fuel in the MU to get to the injectors? So can I just leave it pumping on the ignition or do I have to crank it over for ages (how long?) or will that damage the pump? Or after reading some other posts on the forum do I have another issue? One post says if the injector pipes are not pulsing (they aren’t) the plastic dog driver could be broken? Is that correct and how can I tell unless I pull the MU. So a list of stuff I should I check would be fab. Cheers Keith
  15. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would like to convert from Stromberg to SU's. I have a pair of H6 carbs on Inlet Manifold 305547 which need a refurb. Questions... Would these be a straight swap or do i need a different manifold combo to get the best out of them? What air cleaners do I need as they are missing? Will my existing throttle linkage work with the SU's (the long rod)? Any other things I need to consider in the swap? Regards Ade PS I will put some photos up to help http://s463.photobucket.com/user/apj2007/library/TR2%20Cylinder%20Head
  16. Hi Knowledgeable Folk, I have been given a number of parts, most of which are TR4. I'll post a list in a bit in case anyone needs them and is willing to source (free, except for shipping) from Canada! But first, I need to confirm the set of pistons (and liners) that came in the box. They are used, and the pistons have the following identification marks stamped on them: BHB (in a circle) 205498 M62 2 1 (Note: the 2 and the 1 may be related, but aren't quite the same size or same orientation, but they are fairly close to each other) If this isn't enough information, I can post a photo, but thought I'd try just the numbers first... Cheers, Tim
  17. Hi all I can’t coax my 6 into life. So after rebuilding most of it I’ve come to the first start in many a year and it sort of won’t. Pretty much everything has been changed or refurbed so either I’ve got something wrong or I’m stupid (this latter one is high on the list of suspects, lol) I have fuel being supplied by a newly refurbed (everything) Pi system and it all seems to be getting to the right places and the starter turns the engine over pretty energetically. The main issue seems to be no spark at the plugs, so no attempt to fire. I’ve used one of those In-Line Ignition/HT Lead Spark Plug testers and get no flashes indicating a spark as I try to start. So I’ve gone through the IGN system step by step. The battery is new and pushes out 12.5V (diff to tell exactly as it an analogue multi-meter.) I’m getting that at the coil input and output terminals so the (new) coil seems ok and that current is delivered from the coil to the distributor end of the B&W LT lead, so no breaks in that. But that’s when it seems to fall apart. As soon as I connect that LT lead to the distributor connection I get a zero reading regardless of the position of the points. I would expect to see 12.5V when the points are open but zero when they’re closed as closing the points earths the system. But I get a zero reading all of the time so no on off sequence controlled by the points, which is what I expect, but I may well be wrong. But given my current vague understanding of old (ie non electronic IGN systems) I don’t know what to check next. So if anyone can correct any of my misconceptions or advise on what to try next I would be grateful.. Cheers Keith
  18. Having just completed the Liege - Brescia - Liege rally, (just over 2,000 miles of rally plus another 800 miles getting to Liege and back and during which the car performed nigh on faultlessly), I went out the garage this afternoon to start it up to warm it through preparatory to adjusting the tappets etc., only for it to start spitting (no - pouring!) coolant out through the overflow pipe. Bugger! Does anyone have any suggestions about what it could be apart from a blown head gasket? At least it waited until I got home. Rgds Ian PS In addition to a couple of track tests on a Kart track - all performed in 2nd gear with the engine revving quite hard the rally included crossing both the Stelvio and Gavio passes both ways and at no time during any of this did the engine even overheat.
  19. Gents, for the breaking-in I have a big magnet which I want to stick somewhere to monitor the scraps if any. What's the best place: Bottom of the oil filter (spin-on) or bottom of the sump? As always
  20. Hi everyone, in finalization of my mechanics major overhaul of the '66 4A i own, it's come to the point of degreeing the camshaft. It's a TT1004 cam, with the following specs: Inlet Timing: 37-63 Exhaust Timing: 73-27 Install Figure: 103˚ Cam Duration: 280˚ Reading everything that contains words "camshaft", "cam", TT1xxx, or similar, i've found that this specific one works best when setup just as per specs - installed at 103˚. However - coming from some experience with Minis, there is always talk about timing chain stretch and that you should expect it to give in as much as 2˚ in first 2000 miles (not just folklore, but with some actual measuring behind the figures - 1.0˚ in first 150 miles, 1.5˚ in 1000 miles and as much as 2˚ in first 2000 miles). Has anyone experienced anything similar with our 4 pots here, and does anyone take this into consideration when degreeing the cam? I got the chain and the gears from TR Shop, not really sure on the manufacturer and its stretchability... Cheers! Luka
  21. Hi, I am having a problem on start up, the engine starts, but bangs cracks pops in the exaust pipe, When the engine warms this stops, I recon on to much air getting in some were, then when warm expands and stops Or could it be blocked jefs in the carb Running on webber's, and 123 unit  What do you think Thanks pink
  22. Hello All, I am looking for opinions and anecdotal evidence on the best TR engine specialist in the UK. At some point in the next 24/36 months, I would like my TR4A's engine rebuilt and when I do I would like it tuned/modified to a fast road specification. I live in Canterbury, Kent, which is a disadvantage as it seems to be a long way from any the UK's genuine TR specialists (please correct me if I am wrong). However, it is an advantage in that when I do have the engine rebuilt, I may as well have the car transported to which ever specialist I fancy most. I have considered the following specialists... Racetorations TREnterprises TRBitz TRGB RevingtonTR Enginuity I have dealt with some of them previously and have started to form some bias for who I prefer, but really wanted to first ask this community of their experiences in using any of them or any other companies I have not listed, particularly when it comes to improving the spec of their TR engine. Money and time aren't really a consideration although I am sure this may change in the future when it comes to having it done. I look forward to reading your thoughts and feedback. Regards, Paul
  23. Help, took the car out for a quick spin ( the first of the year) and disaster. Started up and only firing on 5 cylinders but was clearing. Drove to garage to put in fuel and the misfiring had stopped. Drove to the local for one pint ( I had driven approx 2 miles). Came out half an hour later, car started okay but within a few hundred yard stated misfiring and backfiring and if I took my foot off the throttle it would stall, but started okay. i was only a few hundred yards from home so decided to get home. Light grey smoke stared emitting from the exhaust that did not smell good. Got home and put car in garage and nearly cried. Anybody any ideas where I should start. Initially I was going to get the head off, but as far as I know it has never been off, certainly in the 11 years I have had it. It is a 1974 TR6 pi and has covered 72000 miles.
  24. Hi I am looking to replace the old engine mounts on my '6. Given all the concerns about poor rubber quality, does anyone have any recommendations on supplier, or are they all the same quality / from same source? Thanks in advance Steve
  25. I currently have the head off my TR3a to address a problem with suspected (and now confirmed) coil binding on the exhaust valves. I have dealt with that but whilst I had the head off, I removed the cam followers to check that there wasn't any damage to either the cam or the followers. Fortunately there wasn't any damage, (the degree of coil binding was very marginal) but looking at the pattern on the followers it is clear that some of them haven't been rotating or have only been moving through about 10 degrees. There doesn't seem to be any pattern in that it isn't restricted to either the exhaust or the inlet valves, both types are affected but only about half of them. The rest show a nice circular polished area extending across the central area of the follower to within a couple of mm of the edge. Does anyone out there have any experience of this happening to them? The followers were new at the same time as I installed a new camshaft and were supplied by Newmans. They are not phosphated or drilled and a quick check with a micrometer shows no difference in diameter, they are all 23.8mm dia over their full height. My initial reaction is to very slightly reduce the diameter of the ones that haven't been rotating with some 1200 wet & dry. Does anyone have any better ideas? Rgds Ian
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