Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'engine'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • TR Register Information
    • Find your local TR Register group
    • TR Register News
    • Events
    • TR Register Insurance
  • Parts and Cars
    • Classifieds
    • Swap Shop (Members only)
  • TR Register's TR Chat
    • TR Technical
    • TRs Out and About
    • TR Motorsport
    • TRs Re-United
  • Help Topics
    • Forum Help / Rules
  • Useful Links
    • Contact the office
    • Facebook
    • Twitter
    • Members' websites


  • Forthcoming Events
  • Community Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL






Cars Owned:

Found 638 results

  1. Hi, I am having a problem on start up, the engine starts, but bangs cracks pops in the exaust pipe, When the engine warms this stops, I recon on to much air getting in some were, then when warm expands and stops Or could it be blocked jefs in the carb Running on webber's, and 123 unit  What do you think Thanks pink
  2. Hello All, I am looking for opinions and anecdotal evidence on the best TR engine specialist in the UK. At some point in the next 24/36 months, I would like my TR4A's engine rebuilt and when I do I would like it tuned/modified to a fast road specification. I live in Canterbury, Kent, which is a disadvantage as it seems to be a long way from any the UK's genuine TR specialists (please correct me if I am wrong). However, it is an advantage in that when I do have the engine rebuilt, I may as well have the car transported to which ever specialist I fancy most. I have considered the following specialists... Racetorations TREnterprises TRBitz TRGB RevingtonTR Enginuity I have dealt with some of them previously and have started to form some bias for who I prefer, but really wanted to first ask this community of their experiences in using any of them or any other companies I have not listed, particularly when it comes to improving the spec of their TR engine. Money and time aren't really a consideration although I am sure this may change in the future when it comes to having it done. I look forward to reading your thoughts and feedback. Regards, Paul
  3. Help, took the car out for a quick spin ( the first of the year) and disaster. Started up and only firing on 5 cylinders but was clearing. Drove to garage to put in fuel and the misfiring had stopped. Drove to the local for one pint ( I had driven approx 2 miles). Came out half an hour later, car started okay but within a few hundred yard stated misfiring and backfiring and if I took my foot off the throttle it would stall, but started okay. i was only a few hundred yards from home so decided to get home. Light grey smoke stared emitting from the exhaust that did not smell good. Got home and put car in garage and nearly cried. Anybody any ideas where I should start. Initially I was going to get the head off, but as far as I know it has never been off, certainly in the 11 years I have had it. It is a 1974 TR6 pi and has covered 72000 miles.
  4. Hi I am looking to replace the old engine mounts on my '6. Given all the concerns about poor rubber quality, does anyone have any recommendations on supplier, or are they all the same quality / from same source? Thanks in advance Steve
  5. I currently have the head off my TR3a to address a problem with suspected (and now confirmed) coil binding on the exhaust valves. I have dealt with that but whilst I had the head off, I removed the cam followers to check that there wasn't any damage to either the cam or the followers. Fortunately there wasn't any damage, (the degree of coil binding was very marginal) but looking at the pattern on the followers it is clear that some of them haven't been rotating or have only been moving through about 10 degrees. There doesn't seem to be any pattern in that it isn't restricted to either the exhaust or the inlet valves, both types are affected but only about half of them. The rest show a nice circular polished area extending across the central area of the follower to within a couple of mm of the edge. Does anyone out there have any experience of this happening to them? The followers were new at the same time as I installed a new camshaft and were supplied by Newmans. They are not phosphated or drilled and a quick check with a micrometer shows no difference in diameter, they are all 23.8mm dia over their full height. My initial reaction is to very slightly reduce the diameter of the ones that haven't been rotating with some 1200 wet & dry. Does anyone have any better ideas? Rgds Ian
  6. Regular readers may recall that I raised a concern about slightly low oil pressure a couple of months ago. I think it was Mick who suggested it could be down to excessive end float on the crank. I have the gearbox out at the moment so I put a dial gauge on the end of the crank and levered it back and forth to get a repeatable figure of 0.18mm or 7.1 thou. This is outside the recommended workshop manual range of 4 to 6 thou. Is it significant and should I be thinking about replacing the thrust washers? Rgds Ian
  7. Dear All, Can anyone help me to understand the procedures and modifications necessary for upgrading the TR250 engine to TR5 spec or slightly above that level of performance? Is this easily attainable or am I better off sourcing a different engine? Thank you for your wisdom. Dave.
  8. Phil H 4

    Engine Noise.

    Hi All, New to TR ownership and the register that seems very informative, so a cry for help to the community. I now have a 72 TR6 that I've waited years to own and having done a few months of maintenance and upgrades am now a bit stumped. I have a regular tapping noise that is most noticeable from inside the cabin, increases as the revs rise and whilst difficult to hear with the bonnet up due to fan noise etc it is best heard by putting your ear into the drivers foot well. It appears to be coming from low down in the engine,best described as a tapping noise and continues when the clutch is depressed. I have read numerous discussions regarding engine noise but not specific to my issue. Any direction will be most appreciated. Phil
  9. Hello, this comes up frequently and has been vexing me of late, which one shall I fit?, how does duration, timing, lift etc affect performance, found what I was looking for here, https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-9812-secrets-of-camshaft-power/ Good old Google!!, cheers, Andrew
  10. Denis

    Water Pump

    Background sort of 'Schissing' sound from my engine...doesn't change if I dip the clutch. So listened around with a rubber hose pipe...Water Pump sounded quite noisy. I popped the belt off and the pulley spins freely enough. So assuming it's the water pump bearings...are they easy to change, or get hold of new ones, do I need special tools, and do you have to drain the coolant? Or...any harm in just leaving it? And, was it my fault for being lazy, greasing it the last few times with CV grease that was in my gun?
  11. Can anyone out there help with a slightly low oil pressure and where it might be going? The engine was rebuilt in 2012 since when it has not travelled many miles. It has a reground crank 30 thou undersize Initially when I checked the oil pump it seemed all within spec so rather than replace an original item with a questionable replacement I kept it. When I started to use the car the oil pressure was on the low side when the oil was hot so I bought a new pump from the TR Shop along with a set of big end shells and fitted them. When I took the old shells out they weren't showing signs of wear and the crank was good but the pressure did go up a bit. However, it is still marginally on the low side. I have just got back from a weekend at Spa Classic 6 hour which involved approximately 800 miles of mainly motorway driving. During that time the pressure at idle (750rpm) was around 20 psi but only about 60 psi at 2000 rpm, rising to 70 psi at 2500 rpm. There are no untoward noises coming from the bottom end of the engine and the oil consumption was/is negligible. As I said at the beginning, has anyone got any ideas on where the oil pressure could be going? It might also be worth adding that the pressure seems to take a while to build up on the gauge when the engine is started from cold. Rgds Ian
  12. Hi All Making some progress with my rebuild and I’m coming up against things I’ve not done before and the instructions in the brown book (BB) are a little thin (for me anyway!), so some helpful advice as to how to do some stuff. So bear in mind this the first time I’ve tried reassembly of many of these items after they’ve been apart for a long time, so often I’ve simply not done it before or can’t remember how stuff came apart. So the BB says to establish the distributor drive shaft end float (P 12.10.22). And it all makes sense, But. I’m having problems getting the pedestal seated in position on the block, probably because of the various drive gears involved. So how do I seat it so I can measure the float so I can calc the correct number of gaskets to use, I get how to do that bit. Do I jiggle it, turn the engine by hand which makes the pedestal rise and fall, but never seat close enough and I’m talking ¼ inch to high not feeler gauge distance., or simply tighten the nuts securing it down? I don’t want to force anything in case I bust something else. Cheers Keith
  13. Hi everyone, I'm really looking for help and inspiration to solve a fuel related misfire now that all logical fault finding paths seem to be exhausted! Am running a 1975 CR which has been getting progressively richer during the past few years, so finally, after many attempts at tuning, the exhaust smell prompted me to exchange the metering unit. Then things got a little crazy! I chose the correct MU for the CR engine and had to modify the fuel return as this version of the MU only has the screw fitting, but the car had been built at some time in the past with a push fitting pipe connection. No big issue, and the replacement went really well, respecting the 'special' injection timing position ATDC of the CR engine. The car started easily and was soon running smoothly, at least for the first cautious test run of 30 miles. Then, a few miles into a higher speed run, a misfire developed :-( After limping home and checking / replacing all the usual suspects (new plugs, leads, KMI injectors, fuel pressure at 100psi....) the problem would not go away, and by cracking the injector pipes, I eventually found very little fuel at Number 5. Swapping the injectors confirmed that whatever injector was taken from a running cylinder and attached to Number 5 pipe, it would not spray in that position. The original Nr 5 injector worked well on another cylinder. So suspicion fell on the none return valves in the Banjo unions, and two new Banjos were purchased (KMI) and installed. The Nr 5 pipe was also checked for blockages and this appeared okay. The misfire still persisted! So phone call through the Metering Unit supply chain resulted in the MU being exchanged for a newly refurbished one, which was fitted with due care a couple of days ago. PERFECT :-) .... for a few miles, then the misfire returned :-( Again, fault finding proved that whatever injector (now new ones) was fitted onto Nr 5. it would not spray! But the one taken from Nr 5 works on other cylinders! Swapping the Banjo's was also tried to see whether the problem moved to Number 2 - it stayed on Number 5!!! So any gems of inspiration, or preferably someone saying they know exactly what the problem is, would be appreciated. Living in hope Phil
  14. JJC

    FO8 seals

    Are FO8 seals available other than the steel 16 thou and copper 18 thou listed in the Moss book? Interested in thicknesses JJC
  15. Hi all I have just removed the head on my 1958 Tr3a high port engine and found a crack between the valve seats on number 3 cylinder. No inserts are fitted.The crack extends approx 8mm down the exhaust and 4mm down the inlet port. I believe my alternatives are to have the crack welded/ machined by a specialist firm or to replace the head. Has anyone had experience of having a similar head crack repaired. If anyone has a spare high port cylinder head that they are willing to part with, please PM me. Regards Alan
  16. As the title says i had a problem fitting the four seasons heater valve, the old one came out with no issue, I fitted the new one with some thread sealant even the rubber pipe went back on just fine, But I wasn't sure how tight to do it up, and so as the thread sealant says you can reposition up to four hours I thought I'll tighten it some more to be sure, that's when I noticed the valve would no longer turn with the lever! I took it off again and I can't see where I've bent or pinched the housing, but it didn't take a lot for the top part to start spinning instead of the valve inside, so it's had it. If i get another one, how do I put it back on? How tight is enough? Would the thread sealant (permatex) have held if had I just left it the 72 hours of curing time the first time? Cheers Gareth
  17. Good afternoon everyone, As I have mentioned in a previous thread, I am planning to remove the gearbox this coming winter. Whilst I have access to the back of the engine, I am going to have a look at the flywheel. When I rebuilt the engine I re-installed the flywheel and its ring gear in the same configuration as when I dismantled it. Since then I have installed a hi torque (pre-engaged) started. I have read various posts on the forum stating that I should have reversed the ring gear to match the fact that the pre-engaged starter gear would engage from the engine side of the flywheel as opposed to from the gearbox side with the original starter. I have also seen posts suggesting that because the modern starters are pre-engaged it doesn't matter as long as there is a chamfer on the teeth of the starter motor and that it can even be preferable to provide a positive engagement. Is there a definitive answer? Rgds Ian
  18. Hi All, Over the winter I am planning to remove the gearbox in my TR3a to fix a couple of leaks (the seals). Because I only have a single garage, I shall be wheeling the car out onto the driveway to do the removal and then pushing it back in once the box is out. Does anyone out there have any clever dodges for supporting the rear of the engine once the gearbox is out? Thks & Rgds Ian
  19. Grinnal

    SU Carbs

    Hi Folks Can anyone recommend a garage that is good with SU carbs in the Dudley / Wolverhampton area? Thanks Mike
  20. Hi folks, thought id post something about working on my TR...... :-) I have a Bosch 996 pump that was installed in the 1990s by Racetorations and which works perfectly, can run the car right down to empty without a problem. Knowing these pumps are NLA i bought one that came up on ebay a while ago, well couple of years ago probably!, and this week decided it was time for a test. Since ill be messing with the flexible pipes ive bought some new 250psi rated flexible hose, new mounts and clips. Ive also ordered a slightly larger outlet fitting for the pump to better fit the 10mm hose. Removed the old pump yesterday and here they are side by side. The old pump is dirty ! But then so would you be after 20 years located just behind the rear wheel of a TR that actually used :-) I already have a relay and enhanced earthing in the boot, ill renew the foot of wiring to the pump whilst im at it. Will be interesting to see if the nearly new 996 performs any different from the really old 996 Steve
  21. Hi, I’m seriously thinking of converting my TR5 from Weber 40DCOEs to EFI. I know that some of you out there have changed to EFI and have been pleased with the results so I’m hoping to benefit from your experience. I know little about EFI, is there any ‘must-read’ information out there that would get me started. The only thing that I have thought is that I would like to use a spare set of CP throttle bodies that I have as I like their compactness (100mm shorter than the Weber/manifold). I hope these would allow an effective cold-air box system. This is something that has been a problem with the Webers with the restricted space available. No real thoughts about the rest of the system. Hoping for suggestions. As always, look forward to any input. Peter
  22. Whilst tidying some stuff the other day I 'found' my compression tester which I bought back in the early 70s and hardly ever used. Anyway, as a displacement activity from further tidying, I thought I would carry out a quick test. The engine was stone cold and I got the following results: 160psi 165psi 165psi 165psi I then repeated the test after putting a couple of squirts of oil in the bores and got 170psi 175psi 175psi 175psi All of these figures were repeatable. I then carried out a search of the forum to find out whether or not the lower reading on No: 1 is significant and it appears that as long as they are within 10% there shouldn't be an issue. However I also found during my search that I should have carried out the test at normal operating temperature and with wide open throttle. Now I can understand the reason for the normal operating temp, (I think), but haven't clue why one would need the WOT. Does anyone on here know the reason please? Rgds Ian
  23. Gents, on current rebuilt and upgrade, i dropped my block and liners new 89 mm liners at the machine shop for fitting. They found that one of the liners (cyl 1) is quite loose. The dry fitting in the video is made without the Fo8. I told them to do a proper cleanup of the the liner seats and try again. I'm not too worried or should I ? Advice please As always
  24. Hi guys, Thanks for all the helpful posts I've already learnt from. As a relatively new 6 owner here, and I want to check my thrust washers as a preventative measure. I've searched through many threads on here and have got a good idea now, but I wanted to list it out to make sure I've got it right. 1) using a Dti gauge measure the current end float (push pulley in, press clutch to push out) 2) if above reveals wear over minimum, drain oil, remove sump, bearing cap and take out TW's and check (if possible) what size were fitted. 3) if I can see what size were fitted then order a new set of the same and fit and re test the end float. Any variation would now need an additional over size TW to that was previously fitted? Is it obvious which way round they fit? 4) use assembly lube to refit TW's and bearing/cap, torque up. 5) new sump gasket (and a sealant?) And fit sump, new oil, check for leaks. Is that pretty much the method? Gareth
  25. wjgco

    Spark Plugs

    Gents My 6 has; - NGK BP6ES plugs - Luminition electronic ignition I plan to change the plugs. Is there any reason why I should not install NGK BPR6EV Gold Palladium plugs as replacements? I understand that the 'R' indicates that the plug has a resistor fitted. This should, I feel, be mated with an electronic ignition I like the fine electrode on the 'V' plug, as I believe that it offers a hotter burn Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated Thanks John
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.