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Found 647 results

  1. Hi, I would like to hear from anyone that has replaced their Strombergs with SU carbs. Is this worth doing, or even a good idea? Do they work as well with the TR6 engine? Are there other considerations one has to keep in mind? Problems? Thanks in advance.
  2. Hi All I was wondering what people thoughts were on lightening the flywheel of my 4A. Currently the flywheel, including ring gear, is approx. 23 lbs. I'm not looking to go down the competition route so don't need to get it down to a couple of lbs. However, it would be nice to try and increase the responsivness of the car, but not sacrafice the tick over at idle. Is there an ideal amount to shave off or is it better to leave it stock? Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome. Thanks Adam
  3. My TR3a has HS6 carbs on a TR4a manifold. It has been running in that configuration ever since I finished rebuilding it in 2014. In July this year I participated in the Liége-Brescia-Liége Rally and the car ran pretty much faultlessly for the entire trip but when I got home blew the head gasket - literally on the doorstep. I have replaced the head gasket and all seems well in that department but ever since then I have had a problem with adjusting the carbs - or to be more specific, the front one. When I check the plugs for the rear two cylinders, they are the requisite sandy brown colour but the front ones are greyish white indicating they are running lean. This has been going on for some time and in the course of my investigations I have removed the offending carb, dismantled it and blown through the jet with an air line. Re-centralised the jet and made sure that the piston is moving freely, (I have also checked with the engine running and the air filters removed and if I blip the throttle both pistons rise in unison). I have topped up the dashpot with oil, checked and adjusted the float level and made sure that the valve in the float chamber is working properly. I have also removed all the fuel lines to the front carb and blown them through with an air line. And still the front two cylinders are running lean. Yesterday, I even dug out my colourtune plugs (I don't use them much) and fitted one to the front cylinder and one to the rear (no.4) cylinder. No. 4 was blue turning orange - which is correct for my car - it leans out further up the rev range, but no. 1 was pale blue and no matter how much I dropped the jet it didn't change the colour. I ended up with it over 2 mm below the bridge and it was still running lean. So it looks as if I will have to remove the front carb again to find the problem but can anyone give me any clues on where to look please? Surely it has to be a fuel blockage somewhere but where? As an afterthought, I have checked for leaks at the inlet manifold but I can't detect any and to be honest to have an air leak that weakened the mixture when I am driving along at 70 mph it is going to have to be a pretty big hole. Like I said has anyone got any ideas? Rgds Ian
  4. Had car out last night for run up the glens and noticed my idle speed started to creep when the car gets hot....it's about 900 when cold but as it heats up it creeps to about 1200 doesn't (so far) go above about 1200...any help appreciated , Regards Jas
  5. Many years ago I acquired a vacuum gauge as a tuning aid and I recently came across it whilst looking for something else entirely. I have since fitted a vacuum gauge take off to the inlet manifold and run the engine with the gauge attached. It is showing about 15 ins Mercury which from my recollection is a tad low. The needle has a very slight vibration (about + or - 1" Hg). The engine is idliing pretty smoothly at around 800 rpm once warm. I have checked both carbs and the pistons are moving freely and they are balanced. Timing is 12º BTDC at idle. Does anyone out there have any suggestions as to what the issue may be or is 15" about right for a four pot TR engine? I haven't done a compression test yet but the last time I did one they were all pretty consistent at about 165 psi. Rgds Ian
  6. I have a search on ebay that occasionally pops up and sends an email even though I thought I'd cancelled it long ago. Today it sent me a link to H section steel con rods for a TR 4 pot engine for about £200, (which seems pretty cheap), however my main point of interest and the reason for this post is that, looking at the pictures, they don't appear to have any central drilling for an oilway In the workshop manual they make a point that the original TR conrods are drilled to provide lubrication to the small end bush; how come this isn't needed for what I presume is a racing item? Rgds Ian
  7. Hi All Getting well on with my resto now and as most things seem to work I’m trying the first engine start in my ownership and for well over a decade, but I can’t get it to fire and so I need a bit of advice. So it’s got a rebuilt engine (by me) as well as new electrics and the pump, starter and ignition all seem to work. All Pi gear was refurbed properly, by Neil F, and is completely standard so that bit should be good. Now after messing around with quite a few niggly issues, ignition and leaks, all of those seem to be sorted and I have a sparking ignition and leak free fuel system. I’ve cranked the engine over for a while (without plugs) and got oil pressure. I won’t say how much as you might all laugh, but if someone can give me an idea of what the gauge might show on just a starter motor crank that would be great. I might then be happy or not as the case may be, lol. I’ve left the Ign on so the pump is running a good while a good to try to prime the system with fuel and get rid of the air, but are there any tricks to whether that has worked or not? So i connected everything up and attempted to start it several times with no joy. I tested for a spark and thats ok but after the jam jar test no fuel at the injectors. So the questions that occur to me are have I left the fuel pump running enough to get enough fuel in the MU to get to the injectors? So can I just leave it pumping on the ignition or do I have to crank it over for ages (how long?) or will that damage the pump? Or after reading some other posts on the forum do I have another issue? One post says if the injector pipes are not pulsing (they aren’t) the plastic dog driver could be broken? Is that correct and how can I tell unless I pull the MU. So a list of stuff I should I check would be fab. Cheers Keith
  8. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would like to convert from Stromberg to SU's. I have a pair of H6 carbs on Inlet Manifold 305547 which need a refurb. Questions... Would these be a straight swap or do i need a different manifold combo to get the best out of them? What air cleaners do I need as they are missing? Will my existing throttle linkage work with the SU's (the long rod)? Any other things I need to consider in the swap? Regards Ade PS I will put some photos up to help http://s463.photobucket.com/user/apj2007/library/TR2%20Cylinder%20Head
  9. Hi Knowledgeable Folk, I have been given a number of parts, most of which are TR4. I'll post a list in a bit in case anyone needs them and is willing to source (free, except for shipping) from Canada! But first, I need to confirm the set of pistons (and liners) that came in the box. They are used, and the pistons have the following identification marks stamped on them: BHB (in a circle) 205498 M62 2 1 (Note: the 2 and the 1 may be related, but aren't quite the same size or same orientation, but they are fairly close to each other) If this isn't enough information, I can post a photo, but thought I'd try just the numbers first... Cheers, Tim
  10. Hi all I can’t coax my 6 into life. So after rebuilding most of it I’ve come to the first start in many a year and it sort of won’t. Pretty much everything has been changed or refurbed so either I’ve got something wrong or I’m stupid (this latter one is high on the list of suspects, lol) I have fuel being supplied by a newly refurbed (everything) Pi system and it all seems to be getting to the right places and the starter turns the engine over pretty energetically. The main issue seems to be no spark at the plugs, so no attempt to fire. I’ve used one of those In-Line Ignition/HT Lead Spark Plug testers and get no flashes indicating a spark as I try to start. So I’ve gone through the IGN system step by step. The battery is new and pushes out 12.5V (diff to tell exactly as it an analogue multi-meter.) I’m getting that at the coil input and output terminals so the (new) coil seems ok and that current is delivered from the coil to the distributor end of the B&W LT lead, so no breaks in that. But that’s when it seems to fall apart. As soon as I connect that LT lead to the distributor connection I get a zero reading regardless of the position of the points. I would expect to see 12.5V when the points are open but zero when they’re closed as closing the points earths the system. But I get a zero reading all of the time so no on off sequence controlled by the points, which is what I expect, but I may well be wrong. But given my current vague understanding of old (ie non electronic IGN systems) I don’t know what to check next. So if anyone can correct any of my misconceptions or advise on what to try next I would be grateful.. Cheers Keith
  11. Having just completed the Liege - Brescia - Liege rally, (just over 2,000 miles of rally plus another 800 miles getting to Liege and back and during which the car performed nigh on faultlessly), I went out the garage this afternoon to start it up to warm it through preparatory to adjusting the tappets etc., only for it to start spitting (no - pouring!) coolant out through the overflow pipe. Bugger! Does anyone have any suggestions about what it could be apart from a blown head gasket? At least it waited until I got home. Rgds Ian PS In addition to a couple of track tests on a Kart track - all performed in 2nd gear with the engine revving quite hard the rally included crossing both the Stelvio and Gavio passes both ways and at no time during any of this did the engine even overheat.
  12. Gents, for the breaking-in I have a big magnet which I want to stick somewhere to monitor the scraps if any. What's the best place: Bottom of the oil filter (spin-on) or bottom of the sump? As always
  13. Hi everyone, in finalization of my mechanics major overhaul of the '66 4A i own, it's come to the point of degreeing the camshaft. It's a TT1004 cam, with the following specs: Inlet Timing: 37-63 Exhaust Timing: 73-27 Install Figure: 103˚ Cam Duration: 280˚ Reading everything that contains words "camshaft", "cam", TT1xxx, or similar, i've found that this specific one works best when setup just as per specs - installed at 103˚. However - coming from some experience with Minis, there is always talk about timing chain stretch and that you should expect it to give in as much as 2˚ in first 2000 miles (not just folklore, but with some actual measuring behind the figures - 1.0˚ in first 150 miles, 1.5˚ in 1000 miles and as much as 2˚ in first 2000 miles). Has anyone experienced anything similar with our 4 pots here, and does anyone take this into consideration when degreeing the cam? I got the chain and the gears from TR Shop, not really sure on the manufacturer and its stretchability... Cheers! Luka
  14. Hi, I am having a problem on start up, the engine starts, but bangs cracks pops in the exaust pipe, When the engine warms this stops, I recon on to much air getting in some were, then when warm expands and stops Or could it be blocked jefs in the carb Running on webber's, and 123 unit  What do you think Thanks pink
  15. Hello All, I am looking for opinions and anecdotal evidence on the best TR engine specialist in the UK. At some point in the next 24/36 months, I would like my TR4A's engine rebuilt and when I do I would like it tuned/modified to a fast road specification. I live in Canterbury, Kent, which is a disadvantage as it seems to be a long way from any the UK's genuine TR specialists (please correct me if I am wrong). However, it is an advantage in that when I do have the engine rebuilt, I may as well have the car transported to which ever specialist I fancy most. I have considered the following specialists... Racetorations TREnterprises TRBitz TRGB RevingtonTR Enginuity I have dealt with some of them previously and have started to form some bias for who I prefer, but really wanted to first ask this community of their experiences in using any of them or any other companies I have not listed, particularly when it comes to improving the spec of their TR engine. Money and time aren't really a consideration although I am sure this may change in the future when it comes to having it done. I look forward to reading your thoughts and feedback. Regards, Paul
  16. Help, took the car out for a quick spin ( the first of the year) and disaster. Started up and only firing on 5 cylinders but was clearing. Drove to garage to put in fuel and the misfiring had stopped. Drove to the local for one pint ( I had driven approx 2 miles). Came out half an hour later, car started okay but within a few hundred yard stated misfiring and backfiring and if I took my foot off the throttle it would stall, but started okay. i was only a few hundred yards from home so decided to get home. Light grey smoke stared emitting from the exhaust that did not smell good. Got home and put car in garage and nearly cried. Anybody any ideas where I should start. Initially I was going to get the head off, but as far as I know it has never been off, certainly in the 11 years I have had it. It is a 1974 TR6 pi and has covered 72000 miles.
  17. Hi I am looking to replace the old engine mounts on my '6. Given all the concerns about poor rubber quality, does anyone have any recommendations on supplier, or are they all the same quality / from same source? Thanks in advance Steve
  18. I currently have the head off my TR3a to address a problem with suspected (and now confirmed) coil binding on the exhaust valves. I have dealt with that but whilst I had the head off, I removed the cam followers to check that there wasn't any damage to either the cam or the followers. Fortunately there wasn't any damage, (the degree of coil binding was very marginal) but looking at the pattern on the followers it is clear that some of them haven't been rotating or have only been moving through about 10 degrees. There doesn't seem to be any pattern in that it isn't restricted to either the exhaust or the inlet valves, both types are affected but only about half of them. The rest show a nice circular polished area extending across the central area of the follower to within a couple of mm of the edge. Does anyone out there have any experience of this happening to them? The followers were new at the same time as I installed a new camshaft and were supplied by Newmans. They are not phosphated or drilled and a quick check with a micrometer shows no difference in diameter, they are all 23.8mm dia over their full height. My initial reaction is to very slightly reduce the diameter of the ones that haven't been rotating with some 1200 wet & dry. Does anyone have any better ideas? Rgds Ian
  19. Regular readers may recall that I raised a concern about slightly low oil pressure a couple of months ago. I think it was Mick who suggested it could be down to excessive end float on the crank. I have the gearbox out at the moment so I put a dial gauge on the end of the crank and levered it back and forth to get a repeatable figure of 0.18mm or 7.1 thou. This is outside the recommended workshop manual range of 4 to 6 thou. Is it significant and should I be thinking about replacing the thrust washers? Rgds Ian
  20. Dear All, Can anyone help me to understand the procedures and modifications necessary for upgrading the TR250 engine to TR5 spec or slightly above that level of performance? Is this easily attainable or am I better off sourcing a different engine? Thank you for your wisdom. Dave.
  21. Phil H 4

    Engine Noise.

    Hi All, New to TR ownership and the register that seems very informative, so a cry for help to the community. I now have a 72 TR6 that I've waited years to own and having done a few months of maintenance and upgrades am now a bit stumped. I have a regular tapping noise that is most noticeable from inside the cabin, increases as the revs rise and whilst difficult to hear with the bonnet up due to fan noise etc it is best heard by putting your ear into the drivers foot well. It appears to be coming from low down in the engine,best described as a tapping noise and continues when the clutch is depressed. I have read numerous discussions regarding engine noise but not specific to my issue. Any direction will be most appreciated. Phil
  22. Hello, this comes up frequently and has been vexing me of late, which one shall I fit?, how does duration, timing, lift etc affect performance, found what I was looking for here, https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-9812-secrets-of-camshaft-power/ Good old Google!!, cheers, Andrew
  23. Denis

    Water Pump

    Background sort of 'Schissing' sound from my engine...doesn't change if I dip the clutch. So listened around with a rubber hose pipe...Water Pump sounded quite noisy. I popped the belt off and the pulley spins freely enough. So assuming it's the water pump bearings...are they easy to change, or get hold of new ones, do I need special tools, and do you have to drain the coolant? Or...any harm in just leaving it? And, was it my fault for being lazy, greasing it the last few times with CV grease that was in my gun?
  24. Can anyone out there help with a slightly low oil pressure and where it might be going? The engine was rebuilt in 2012 since when it has not travelled many miles. It has a reground crank 30 thou undersize Initially when I checked the oil pump it seemed all within spec so rather than replace an original item with a questionable replacement I kept it. When I started to use the car the oil pressure was on the low side when the oil was hot so I bought a new pump from the TR Shop along with a set of big end shells and fitted them. When I took the old shells out they weren't showing signs of wear and the crank was good but the pressure did go up a bit. However, it is still marginally on the low side. I have just got back from a weekend at Spa Classic 6 hour which involved approximately 800 miles of mainly motorway driving. During that time the pressure at idle (750rpm) was around 20 psi but only about 60 psi at 2000 rpm, rising to 70 psi at 2500 rpm. There are no untoward noises coming from the bottom end of the engine and the oil consumption was/is negligible. As I said at the beginning, has anyone got any ideas on where the oil pressure could be going? It might also be worth adding that the pressure seems to take a while to build up on the gauge when the engine is started from cold. Rgds Ian
  25. Hi All Making some progress with my rebuild and I’m coming up against things I’ve not done before and the instructions in the brown book (BB) are a little thin (for me anyway!), so some helpful advice as to how to do some stuff. So bear in mind this the first time I’ve tried reassembly of many of these items after they’ve been apart for a long time, so often I’ve simply not done it before or can’t remember how stuff came apart. So the BB says to establish the distributor drive shaft end float (P 12.10.22). And it all makes sense, But. I’m having problems getting the pedestal seated in position on the block, probably because of the various drive gears involved. So how do I seat it so I can measure the float so I can calc the correct number of gaskets to use, I get how to do that bit. Do I jiggle it, turn the engine by hand which makes the pedestal rise and fall, but never seat close enough and I’m talking ¼ inch to high not feeler gauge distance., or simply tighten the nuts securing it down? I don’t want to force anything in case I bust something else. Cheers Keith
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