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Found 660 results

  1. Got a weird droning while driving about today and on lifting bonnet the cause was obvious. No rocker cover cap. Dunno why it went walkabout, Rocker cover is alloy one, Don't know supplier. If anybody can identify it and/or suggest where I could get a replacement that would be grand! (Its the 4 cylinder) Mike
  2. Hi all, Do you have access to an engine simulator package that you'd be willing to use to answer some questions I have? I'd like to understand more about the effect of different types of cam profile and timing on the TR6 engine, and I really liked the visualisations on HotTR6's page. Simply, I'd like to know what would happen if you start with a CP cam, and open the lobe centres a few degrees (up to 5). Then play with advancing/retarding the cam a few degrees (-8 to +8). I'm not too concerned about the actual torque & power figures (far too much else will affect those), but rather the relative effect of the changes. Thanks, John
  3. Yesterday my TR3a was booked in for an MOT. The car has been running beautifully for the last few weeks but Murphy's Law, as I was parking in front of the MOT garage I couldn't fail to notice a disquieting rattle coming from the engine. It's not there when I am driving (maybe because I have hood down and there is too much else going on) and the engine still feels just as smooth but it is clear that something is amiss. I suspect it is something to do with the timing chain as I have checked all the valve gear and tappets and they are all spot on. Before I start stripping the front off to remove the radiator etc. does anyone else have a view? I have a recorded a couple of videos to capture the noise, the first shows the rev counter with the engine ticking over at a pretty steady 750 rpm and you can hear the noise in the background. The second is a short video of the engine bay and the noise is much more clear although it is not particularly obvious where it is coming from. I have tried putting a stethoscope on the timing chain cover but that doesn't reveal a deafening rattle athough you can hear that it is somewhere down there. Here are the YouTube links, the files are too big to load onto the forum. Rev conter at idle Under the bonnet and it's very noisy. Rgds Ian
  4. Team, This is my first posting although I've used the forum many times in the past for technical searches so appreciate all the information provided. I'm based in Aberdeen and have a 1972 TVR 2500M (UDB 744K) which I've had since 1989. As you will be aware, the car is based on a TR6. It's a long story but based on work and family commitments, its been garaged for more than 20 years with a seized engine. I've now retired and started a restoration. I'm not a mechanic but have a electromechanical background so I'm OK at using the forums and TR manuals. I've rebuilt the engine (number MM24HE), serviced the carbs (twin strombergs), starter motor, fuel pump, alternator etc. and replaced the battery, HT leads, coil, plugs and points. I'm 99% sure everything is back together correctly and static timing is set. I've gone over this a couple of times and can see the rotor arm in the correct position at TDC. I've checked and rechecked the HT wiring order. The LT wiring in the car is a mess as it looks like one of the previous owners has bodged with a lot of splices so I'm slowly fixing this. A new loom wasn't really an option as the early TVR's were all a little different so I prefer to build this myself. I've done enough gf the wiring to get the ignition working but the issue I have is that I can't get the car started after the rebuild. It was a good runner before it was garaged (although tricky to start after a few days idle) but it had a stuck piston after local garage left outside with the head off so needed rebuilt. Rebuild went well, new piston rings installed, relapped valves and everything in spec. The car turns over well and getting decent spark at the plugs. It has a ballast resistor but getting about 10v at the coil when cranking. Oil pressure seems reasonable after a few cranks (I circulated the oil with an air-drill and an attachment to the distributor) . Fuel tank is currently disconnected but I have a small fuel reservoir attached and petrol is getting to the carbs. Exhaust, manifold and air filter currently disconnected. Compression seems OK (between 150 and 180 psi on each piston). I've even tried a squirt of easy start but doesn't even attempt to catch. Cooling system is also a mess so not connected at present. Using unleaded petrol which I know will be an issue with current valves but my understanding is that it will be ok for a quick run until I get the tank back and put in some lead additive. My gut feeling is that it may be related to the carb overhaul although this went fairly well and I see no immediate issues with the rebuild. But the spark is good so if it's not timing, I'm not really sure what to try next. I'm pretty sure having the air filter, exhaust and cooling system disconnected is not the problem but hopefully one of you good people can advise me if I'm correct. I realise this is a bit of an ask and probably need to just re-check all the obvious things mentioned in the forum but any tips would be greatly appreciated (especially regarding the carbs because all the settings will likely be off after the rebuild). Nightmare scenario is that the engine hasn't been degreed properly but I'm 99% sure its good as I spent a long time checking and re-checking. Thanks in advance too anyone who can help.
  5. Hi Folks, what are the pro's and con's of painting the internal surfaces of the 4 pot water jacket and external surface of the liners. Will this stop/reduce rusting? Is there a benefit.? What is the best paint/process for the job I've not done this in the past but 'm sure somebody has. Roger
  6. Following my recent incident with what I think turned out to be a sticking cam follower I have been putting some miles on the car to confirm that all is well. The one thing I have noticed is that the engine - according to the temperature gauge appears to be running hotter. Since the only thing I have done is remove the head and the radiator but without changing anything that could affect the running temperature, I suspect that I have an airlock somewhere in the system. Is there any way to confirm this and more importantly get rid of it? Over the last couple of weeks I have covered a couple of hundred miles at varying speeds but not above 65mph bearing in mind I am running in new cam followers. The engine warms up very quickly and runs with the temperature gauge needle a couple of mm above where it was previously. It seems that the gauge is reading correctly because the electric fan cuts in at about the same point. I have checked the timing and that is spot on, as is the mixture. I did find that when I re-filled the cooling system after replacing the head and radiator that it wouldn't accept the full 8 litres specified in the WSM and I initially put that down to the heater not having been drained but now I wonder if it was because of an airlock. When I check the coolant level, there is no apparent loss and thus far no evidence of bubbles which might indicate head gasket issues. For the moment all I am going to do is keep on using it but any suggestions would be gratefully received. Rgds Ian
  7. Hi baught a tr3b engine to try and turn it a fast road, baughtt the engine for a good price as there was no history , I was taking a bit of a chance, It has turned out well the head has been machined into stage 3 the engine is of to saunders road next week for balancing and crack detection When I broke the engine down this was the camshaft that was fitted it looks new to me, what do you think Markings on are Mc21434 and 301466 and the letter H
  8. Hi looking for reasurance, with the number on the conrod bearing Stamped on the bearing is the part no , 117590 if it was oversize would it have a slash after the part no then the fig, ie 117590/ 10 I am doing a fast road engine should I think about upgraded conrods Thank you pink
  9. As the title says i had a problem fitting the four seasons heater valve, the old one came out with no issue, I fitted the new one with some thread sealant even the rubber pipe went back on just fine, But I wasn't sure how tight to do it up, and so as the thread sealant says you can reposition up to four hours I thought I'll tighten it some more to be sure, that's when I noticed the valve would no longer turn with the lever! I took it off again and I can't see where I've bent or pinched the housing, but it didn't take a lot for the top part to start spinning instead of the valve inside, so it's had it. If i get another one, how do I put it back on? How tight is enough? Would the thread sealant (permatex) have held if had I just left it the 72 hours of curing time the first time? Cheers Gareth
  10. Hi All I rebuilt my TR4A engine introducing a lip seal at the rear main and all went well apart from a persistent tink tink tink So I went in search of the cause : looking first at rocker clearance, could a rocker be touching the rocker cover The noise started with the engine and was more noticeable at low revs when the engine made less noise Anyway with covid-19 restrictions I went the whole hog and took the engine and box out and strip the thing down again The lip seal was still there, the camshaft was smooth and not clicking , the cam followers and cam shaft were unmarked The only thing I could find was loose little end bearings According to an engine building friend the gudgeon pin should just slide out of the conrod little end under its own weight: well mine just fell out and were clearly loose in the bearings I could waggle the pin in the rod The conrods were ones that I had ground smooth as in Kastner competition black book years ago when the 4A was a race car so they didn't owe me anything My question to the forum is: who has replaced little end bearings as there is a Churchill tool according to the Workshop manual but more importantly once in the little bearings need to be honed exactly square. Has the forum addressed this in the past as I can't find anything on it (I do have a "Can't find it Gene" according to my wife) Thank you in anticipation of your general advice Michael Hunter
  11. Slowly doing bits and pieces on the rebuild of my 5 and went to fit the fan belt yesterday. I can't fit the belt between the bottom pulley and the steering rack. If I support the sump on a jack and block, loosen gearbox and engine mountings will I be able to shift the block back a couple of millimetres to get sufficient space. ...or am I missing something else. Many thanks as always, Tim
  12. This fault was new to me, the engine wasn't running well, so I tried tuning carbs and ignition and checked the plugs. I didn't get any result and it seemed that it ran even worse after checking the plugs. This continued until I finally discovered that the brass insert in the cap, of one of the caps, was stuck on the plug. Checking the other caps showed that 3 out of 4 brass connectors were loose. Substituted them for considerably more expensive caps and the engine is now running as it should. So, advice to myself, stop buying cheap stuff!
  13. Right gents Engine back in after second rebuild (long story ) and all ready to start. Questions; 1. Do I try to start on my own 2. Do I ask the wife to help me with the starting operation!!!!!!! 3. Do I just look at it for a few months until this frigging lock down is over. Your thoughts Al
  14. I have just learnt that the air plenum on my rebuild project TR5 is from a TR6 and that the inlet manifolds are also the air bleed type. Apart from the originality issue are there any other issues to be considered or do I just fit as if it was a TR6? I have had a look at other photos of 5s including the one for sale at £75,000 described as possibly the best concours 5 there is, and it has the same plenum as the one below. The originality issue is not of any great concern. Mine is the blue one , obviously! Many thanks, Tim
  15. Tim T

    Paint finish

    Could some kind person tell me what the correct paint finish is for the air plenum box on a 1968 TR5. For some reason I thought that is a black crackle ..... Or am I dreaming? Many thanks, Tim
  16. Hi, I would like to hear from anyone that has replaced their Strombergs with SU carbs. Is this worth doing, or even a good idea? Do they work as well with the TR6 engine? Are there other considerations one has to keep in mind? Problems? Thanks in advance.
  17. Hi All I was wondering what people thoughts were on lightening the flywheel of my 4A. Currently the flywheel, including ring gear, is approx. 23 lbs. I'm not looking to go down the competition route so don't need to get it down to a couple of lbs. However, it would be nice to try and increase the responsivness of the car, but not sacrafice the tick over at idle. Is there an ideal amount to shave off or is it better to leave it stock? Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome. Thanks Adam
  18. My TR3a has HS6 carbs on a TR4a manifold. It has been running in that configuration ever since I finished rebuilding it in 2014. In July this year I participated in the Liége-Brescia-Liége Rally and the car ran pretty much faultlessly for the entire trip but when I got home blew the head gasket - literally on the doorstep. I have replaced the head gasket and all seems well in that department but ever since then I have had a problem with adjusting the carbs - or to be more specific, the front one. When I check the plugs for the rear two cylinders, they are the requisite sandy brown colour but the front ones are greyish white indicating they are running lean. This has been going on for some time and in the course of my investigations I have removed the offending carb, dismantled it and blown through the jet with an air line. Re-centralised the jet and made sure that the piston is moving freely, (I have also checked with the engine running and the air filters removed and if I blip the throttle both pistons rise in unison). I have topped up the dashpot with oil, checked and adjusted the float level and made sure that the valve in the float chamber is working properly. I have also removed all the fuel lines to the front carb and blown them through with an air line. And still the front two cylinders are running lean. Yesterday, I even dug out my colourtune plugs (I don't use them much) and fitted one to the front cylinder and one to the rear (no.4) cylinder. No. 4 was blue turning orange - which is correct for my car - it leans out further up the rev range, but no. 1 was pale blue and no matter how much I dropped the jet it didn't change the colour. I ended up with it over 2 mm below the bridge and it was still running lean. So it looks as if I will have to remove the front carb again to find the problem but can anyone give me any clues on where to look please? Surely it has to be a fuel blockage somewhere but where? As an afterthought, I have checked for leaks at the inlet manifold but I can't detect any and to be honest to have an air leak that weakened the mixture when I am driving along at 70 mph it is going to have to be a pretty big hole. Like I said has anyone got any ideas? Rgds Ian
  19. Had car out last night for run up the glens and noticed my idle speed started to creep when the car gets hot....it's about 900 when cold but as it heats up it creeps to about 1200 doesn't (so far) go above about 1200...any help appreciated , Regards Jas
  20. Many years ago I acquired a vacuum gauge as a tuning aid and I recently came across it whilst looking for something else entirely. I have since fitted a vacuum gauge take off to the inlet manifold and run the engine with the gauge attached. It is showing about 15 ins Mercury which from my recollection is a tad low. The needle has a very slight vibration (about + or - 1" Hg). The engine is idliing pretty smoothly at around 800 rpm once warm. I have checked both carbs and the pistons are moving freely and they are balanced. Timing is 12º BTDC at idle. Does anyone out there have any suggestions as to what the issue may be or is 15" about right for a four pot TR engine? I haven't done a compression test yet but the last time I did one they were all pretty consistent at about 165 psi. Rgds Ian
  21. I have a search on ebay that occasionally pops up and sends an email even though I thought I'd cancelled it long ago. Today it sent me a link to H section steel con rods for a TR 4 pot engine for about £200, (which seems pretty cheap), however my main point of interest and the reason for this post is that, looking at the pictures, they don't appear to have any central drilling for an oilway In the workshop manual they make a point that the original TR conrods are drilled to provide lubrication to the small end bush; how come this isn't needed for what I presume is a racing item? Rgds Ian
  22. Hi All Getting well on with my resto now and as most things seem to work I’m trying the first engine start in my ownership and for well over a decade, but I can’t get it to fire and so I need a bit of advice. So it’s got a rebuilt engine (by me) as well as new electrics and the pump, starter and ignition all seem to work. All Pi gear was refurbed properly, by Neil F, and is completely standard so that bit should be good. Now after messing around with quite a few niggly issues, ignition and leaks, all of those seem to be sorted and I have a sparking ignition and leak free fuel system. I’ve cranked the engine over for a while (without plugs) and got oil pressure. I won’t say how much as you might all laugh, but if someone can give me an idea of what the gauge might show on just a starter motor crank that would be great. I might then be happy or not as the case may be, lol. I’ve left the Ign on so the pump is running a good while a good to try to prime the system with fuel and get rid of the air, but are there any tricks to whether that has worked or not? So i connected everything up and attempted to start it several times with no joy. I tested for a spark and thats ok but after the jam jar test no fuel at the injectors. So the questions that occur to me are have I left the fuel pump running enough to get enough fuel in the MU to get to the injectors? So can I just leave it pumping on the ignition or do I have to crank it over for ages (how long?) or will that damage the pump? Or after reading some other posts on the forum do I have another issue? One post says if the injector pipes are not pulsing (they aren’t) the plastic dog driver could be broken? Is that correct and how can I tell unless I pull the MU. So a list of stuff I should I check would be fab. Cheers Keith
  23. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would like to convert from Stromberg to SU's. I have a pair of H6 carbs on Inlet Manifold 305547 which need a refurb. Questions... Would these be a straight swap or do i need a different manifold combo to get the best out of them? What air cleaners do I need as they are missing? Will my existing throttle linkage work with the SU's (the long rod)? Any other things I need to consider in the swap? Regards Ade PS I will put some photos up to help http://s463.photobucket.com/user/apj2007/library/TR2%20Cylinder%20Head
  24. Hi Knowledgeable Folk, I have been given a number of parts, most of which are TR4. I'll post a list in a bit in case anyone needs them and is willing to source (free, except for shipping) from Canada! But first, I need to confirm the set of pistons (and liners) that came in the box. They are used, and the pistons have the following identification marks stamped on them: BHB (in a circle) 205498 M62 2 1 (Note: the 2 and the 1 may be related, but aren't quite the same size or same orientation, but they are fairly close to each other) If this isn't enough information, I can post a photo, but thought I'd try just the numbers first... Cheers, Tim
  25. Hi all I can’t coax my 6 into life. So after rebuilding most of it I’ve come to the first start in many a year and it sort of won’t. Pretty much everything has been changed or refurbed so either I’ve got something wrong or I’m stupid (this latter one is high on the list of suspects, lol) I have fuel being supplied by a newly refurbed (everything) Pi system and it all seems to be getting to the right places and the starter turns the engine over pretty energetically. The main issue seems to be no spark at the plugs, so no attempt to fire. I’ve used one of those In-Line Ignition/HT Lead Spark Plug testers and get no flashes indicating a spark as I try to start. So I’ve gone through the IGN system step by step. The battery is new and pushes out 12.5V (diff to tell exactly as it an analogue multi-meter.) I’m getting that at the coil input and output terminals so the (new) coil seems ok and that current is delivered from the coil to the distributor end of the B&W LT lead, so no breaks in that. But that’s when it seems to fall apart. As soon as I connect that LT lead to the distributor connection I get a zero reading regardless of the position of the points. I would expect to see 12.5V when the points are open but zero when they’re closed as closing the points earths the system. But I get a zero reading all of the time so no on off sequence controlled by the points, which is what I expect, but I may well be wrong. But given my current vague understanding of old (ie non electronic IGN systems) I don’t know what to check next. So if anyone can correct any of my misconceptions or advise on what to try next I would be grateful.. Cheers Keith
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