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  1. I need a template for the metal shield which i have seen on the forum but cannot find.
  2. How do you fit the collar in the fastener to the bonnet?
  3. Spin off from a recent forum discussion, I noted that Helen Gill is offering on the 'bay a nos OE Stanpart 57113 . . . . which fits all wet-liner 4-pots, TR2 through TR4A. The only wheels I've seen in recent years have been repros, which didn't impress me any more than do some of the timing chains currently available. As it happens, Helen tells me she has a modest box full of these OE chain wheels . . . . well worth grabbing one, I'd suggest, if you are planning an engine rebuild, at least in my view. No I don't know just what she wants for one, but if a repro is £33 I'd expect to
  4. I am replacing the RB106 regulator with a solid state unit. It can be mounted behind the dashboard inside the car, so that there is no overheating. The wires need to be connected to the existing loom. This would be easy if I could use regular spade terminals and leave the new unit on show in the engine bay. However I am planning to leave an empty Regulator box in place and solder the wires to the brass rivets which hold the existing spade connectors. I am OK soldering copper pipes but not so good with cables. I notice that the existing cables from A1 are soldered at the back so I assum
  5. My newly overhauled carbs have a problem. The front one is leaking from the jet. Has anyone found some modern seals, Viton ?, which would work better than the oil soaked cork. I have sorted out the bolt fixing the float chamber to the carb body, but i would like a long term to petrol leaks. I am hoping that there are o rings out there that will work. Please help if possible. Richard & H.
  6. I have an overhauled unit which has to go back to the supplier once a year for adjustment. I need a long term answer.I have been offered a solid state alternative to the RB106 on my dynamo fitted 3A. This is quite a new product and I can not see any reviews. Has any one here any experience? It is very expensive but may work well . Please let me know what you think Thanks Richard & H..
  7. I noticed by accident the other day that the engine mounts are supposed to have some little metal brackets on either side. I don't have any and would not have realized they existed if I hadn't spotted them on the Moss engine part diagram (Part # 106428). Do these actually help ?. I can still get them and they are inexpensive. Stan
  8. Having been shopping recently, I have a few bits and bobs available for sale! I have attached some photos showing some of the original Stanpart panels which will be for sale. These include doors, wings, bonnets, boots, windscreen frames and other parts for TR2 to TR6 cars. There's lots not in the pictures. I think I'm going to be busy over Christmas sorting stuff out. I also have some 6 cylinder engines, a complete TR250 bodyshell, gearboxes and all manner of other original Stanpart parts. In due course, pictures and descriptions of parts will be available to see onl
  9. Can anyone help me with the above? They are not available anymore. Tom.
  10. 4 x original Triumph TR wheel caps. Chrome fairly poor but the caps themselves are very straight, no dents. Sorry - No badges incl. FREE to anyone who can use them, postage to pay, estimated at under a tenner (probably). PM me if interested. Regards Bob please also see other caps offered from unknown Triumph model
  11. hi Guys I am thinking about replacing the wood behind the inside tops of the doors. Other than the brackets for the sidescreens and the outside LHD´s re there any other things to be removed before the wood (drops) out? or any other surprises I could encounter? Thanks Dave
  12. I had some problems fitting my heater back in behind the dashboard after cleaning it up and repairing the battery box. It was very difficult to lift into place. I had to use a short length of timber and squeezed it in finally. Some months later I discovered that the engine would not switch off when the side and headlights were on. I assumed that the compressed wiring behind the dash was responsible. So I was able to live with that for a while and plan to lift out the instrument panel on a warm day this autumn and check all the connections However on my return from our SDG Autumn run t
  13. I am working on the rear stop and tail lamps. The existing earth wire is only the same diameter as the incoming loom cables. I am planning to increase the size. Will this make any other problems? Thanks Richard & H.
  14. Hi All Here we are in France again, so I went to my local garage in Nimes where I used to get 95 x E5 fuel only to find they now only have E10 fuel, so I went to my next known supplier and was lucky that time so I filled up. Good job I did too because the next known supplier was E10 only. Since I have only seen this E10 horrible stuff on sale at most places, so I have to ask the obvious question to you all. Would it be O:K. to mix Super 98 with ordinary 95 E10 in 50% proportions? so that the super 98 would dilute the E10 content, and vice versa, to lower the octane value of the super 98, as
  15. I'm in the process of bolting the body tub of my 61 3a to the chassis. The process that I'm following is to secure the rear fixings ensuring that measurements to fixed points on the body/chassis are consistent between left and right hand sides and tighten securely. I then worked my way up the body aligning bolts with captive nuts but only fixing loosely. All is going well but I'm unsure how to install the 2 fixings that sit either side of the engine on the angled chassis frame. The manual (see attached) seems to show a sequence of firstly placing a thick rubber pad followed by a notched alumin
  16. The rear end of my 3A is low and the exhaust catches on any raised kerb or bumps. I have a price list from BCC in Redruth Cornwall. The springs are made using an ISO9001 quality control system from EN45 (251A58) British steel. The springs are made in Sheffield. This all sounds like good quality. The cost for two is £376.00 which seems to be high. But buying cheap springs that sink quickly is probably more expensive. What shall I do? Please advise. Richard & H.
  17. At the week end I was able to borrow a 4 post lift. It has been puzzling me for many years that I have trouble with the slave cylinder. The ST manual shows the cylinder mounted on the rear side of the bracket and the lowest hole used for the connection. The Moss parts book says use the middle hole. I know some of the contributors to the parts book and they do not get things wrong. If I use the middle hole the rod is at an angle and wears out the slave on one side only, and then it leaks. I noticed in the parts book that there were two numbers for the bracket. 1 x Lockheed and 1 x
  18. Hi guys, For those of you who like pictures, and mainly Menno, who was asking for a pic of my TR in " a real Canadian setting" Well, here it is, took the TR for a spin in the mountains this morning and drove by a mama black bear and two cubs. parked the car and took this pic of TR and mama bear......my mama bear in the passenger seat was not all that comfortable being that close to the bears. Note that you hardly see the mountains due to the forest fires in Montana and British Columbia. Yves
  19. This summer, I had the gearbox fully overhauled and a new clutch plate. I am now able to select first and reverse with no grinding noise. The change is not as smooth as i had hoped. I once drove TS2 and the gear change was very smooth. I want mine to be the same. I have a new cross shaft , new thrust bearing and new bearing carrier, and new cover that I had in store for 20 years. It is still chunky changing gear and we have covered only 300 miles. What parts control the smooth change that i am looking for? I have extended the slave pushrod to make it longer in case the clutch was n
  20. My good friend Julian Richards has one of Andy Wiltshire's tanks in his 3A, and pointed out this advert to me . . . . . In my humble opinion, Andy's tanks were quite simply the best calibre tanks ever made for TRs. NLA, as they do not provide him with an adequate financial return to a one-man band with a full order book of tanks for megabuck exotica. Fair comment, the man's a superb craftsman, he's worked for and deserves his niche market. I very much doubt you're ever likely to see another for sale. Absolute bargain, and nowt to do with me ! Link to ebay - http://www.ebay.
  21. I've come across this mystery bracket on my 3A. It's attached to the Tie Rod for the steering column to fascia stay. It lines up with the trip counter resetting control but there is no means of securing it to the fascia ~ it just rests on the fascia. This bracket is not shown in the Moss catalogue. Any ideas? Tom.
  22. My car is still running with its original rubber and banjo hose from the rigid fuel pipe to the carbs. Having just read the Unleaded debate for PI systems it got me thinking/worried. Should this be replaced as its unlikely to be Ethanol resistant and if so, what with and from Whom? The from Whom is important as I have had issues with fuel filter glass bowl seals that were allegedly Ethanol proof and swell by about 30% in size..........you only find out when you go to clean the fuel filter bowl and the seal explodes out its groove and wont go back for 24 hrs after which it has shrunk
  23. This must be one of the most unusual problems on the forum. My car is starting and running well. But at the International a new problem turned up. If the headlamps are on and I turn the ignition key to "off" the engine will not stop. Turn off the headlamps and all back to normal. How is the coil getting power? Please help. Richard & H.
  24. I've seen previous posts in relation to the type of tennax fastener (self tapping or nut) for use with the tonneau but I have another query which relates to the location of the fixings. My 59 3a has a single hole in the drivers door which corresponds to the lift the dot fastener that is on what I have been told is the original tonneau cover. Conversely, on the passenger side there are a number of fasteners but owing to the fact that I've had to replace my passenger door during my rebuild holes will need to be drilled to accommodate these. I've tried to attach images to illustrate this in more
  25. Having recently fitted a Pertronix set up to my TR3a, I have been experimenting with the timing. I indexed the front pulley when I rebuilt the engine so it is a fairly straightforward task to check the timing with a strobe - I don't have one of the fancy modern ones that allows you to read it off the light. I have set the plug gaps to 32 thou and have found that the engine runs best and at its smoothest with a nice clean pick up from low revs and no pinking with the timing set to 10 deg. BTDC at idle (800 rpm) with the vacuum advance removed. My calculated CR is 9.2:1 and I am usin
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