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Found 791 results

  1. Has anyone converted their car to use a cable operated throttle, rather than the linkage rods? Rather than reinventing the wheel, which I could do, it would be helpful to see pictures and descriptions of how your car has been converted. Thanks David
  2. I read an old post from Ian Cornish about him using Aluminium J section to make new rain channels for the TR3 hardtop.. Is it still available?Has anyone made any progress on getting a profile bent to shape?
  3. Hi guys I'm toying with the idea of fitting an electric fuel pump. Nothing too wrong with the old mechanical item, but having weighed up pros and cons I think I would like to try an electric pump. I have an old motorbike pump which does 900ml/min flowrate, which I think might be enough. It's low pressure, too, only for helping to shift the bottom bit of the tank into the carbs. Interestingly, it has a Mitsubishi symbol on the end of the pump, even though it came from a Honda. I want to try fitting it in the engine bay, and was thinking about taking power from the terminals on top of the coil. It would be relatively easy to set it up and test it, but the thing I am not sure about is the current draw, and the spare capacity of the +ve supply to the coil. The loom was a TR Shop replacement item, not sure the specs on the wire feeding the coil. I suppose I could always fit a relay to reduce the current draw on the coil feed. The current draw on the pump I am not too sure of - I measured the resistance which was 2 ohms, which I think gives 6 amps of current and 72w of power. This seems high, when a Goss GE392 pump will only draw 2 amps according to the data sheet. Any sage advice out there?
  4. Hi, Anyone had trouble with the narrow fan belt water pump aluminium pulley? Mine was fitted less that a thousand miles ago by a well known TR specialist, and they either left the fan belt much too tight or the kit is flawed. The hole through the aluminium pulley has opened up to the point where it has completely lost drive and the pulley just rattles about on the pump shaft, sounding like a box of rusty spanners.
  5. Hi guys A few months back I posted about the rear ride height on my 3a being lopsided... can't find the original post now, but I thought i'd let you all know that I finally got around to looking into it and found what appears to be the cause... Two plates fitted between the axle and spring on the RHS, approx. 12mm total thickness, and nothing on the LHS... I removed the plates and found that the car sits fairly even now. Looking back at photos taken of the re-build, it looks like those plates may have actually started off being fitted to the LHS of the car. Anyway - she's sitting level now, so will do a few miles and keep an eye on it. Am I right in assuming that it would be fairly common to find these plates inserted to adjust ride heights like this?
  6. Hi guys I found the below little bolt in the engine bay, sitting near the spin on filter on a flange of the inner wing I think. I can't figure out where it's come from, but it is quite distinctive... small,. with an Allen head in one end of the bolt and a dimple on the other end... Seems fairly obvious that it's something that is adjusted using the allen key thingo then locked in place with the nut. Any ideas what it is / where it comes from?
  7. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
  8. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Final point is that these are original castings and not the repro ones!! David
  9. Hi all, Can anybody give me some advice please.... When I bought my 1955 UK TR2 it came with an upgraded engine as the original had died way back when. The owner back then, (an employee of Standard Triumph) had obtained a brand new engine from the factory - 2138cc stamped CT10E. This owner has told me that the engine he bought was 1 of 10 bound for the U.S.. This new engine is fitted with: CD175 Strombergs Inlet Manifold - Stanpart 305744 Exhaust Manifold - 304164 Cylinder Head - High Port Struggling to read the number (see photos), two valve spring per valve. So...I would like to convert from Stromberg to SU's. I have a pair of H6 carbs on Inlet Manifold 305547 which need a refurb. Questions... Would these be a straight swap or do i need a different manifold combo to get the best out of them? What air cleaners do I need as they are missing? Will my existing throttle linkage work with the SU's (the long rod)? Any other things I need to consider in the swap? Regards Ade PS I will put some photos up to help http://s463.photobucket.com/user/apj2007/library/TR2%20Cylinder%20Head
  10. Hi Guys, After a long hard and hot run my 3A always leaks some coolant liquid from the overflow, pretty normal because I keep topping it up. This time I did notice that the coolant was foaming when it overflowed. Checked oil level and that was perfect, drained coolant and did not notice any oil contamination, my first worry was a leak at the liner base. I torqued the head down, but that was OK. so I'm thinking that I'm leaking exhaust gasses in my coolant. Any other theories out there? Could I be able to detect this with a CO gas detector? Or is this no reason for concern as long as oil and coolant stay normal? Just take the head of and have a look? Thanks, Yves
  11. Hello old friends! It's been quite a while but I've been spending more time enjoying my cars, and grandchildren. Because of the sudden and unpredictable nature of this failure I was compelled to report this incident. My '59 TR3A recently had a clutch master cylinder failure. Basically, it came apart internally while my mechanic was delivering the car after annual maintenance. He was forced to shift by speed matching to get it back to his shop. This car has approx. 5K miles since the restoration was completed in June 2012. The MC that failed is an after market unit that I bought in 2011, and it looks just like the originals. However, when we searched a replacement MC , we noticed that the casting was redesigned, with a totally different shape. So, I'll be looking for a NOS or rebuildable master. Now, we are concerned about the brake master cylinder, which is the same design, and will be forced to replace both with the new design. This really bothers me. After a 12 year restoration during which Brian and I were meticulous about originality, its a shame to be forced to use this bastard design. However, a sudden clutch failure, one can usually recover from, but not necessarily the loss of brakes. The worst part of this event was the unpredictable and sudden nature of it. Hey, look, it might be a fluke, but reproduction parts quality has been declining for years. So please allow me to be pessimistic! No one on this side of the pond offers a replacement master cylinder that looks like the original. We did have a possible lead for an authentic part from a company in the UK, MEV Spares, but after inquiry found out that its the same rubbish offered by the other firms. Following are some photos and the words of my mechanic, Brian, as he reported the details. Made it back to the workshop by starting in gear and carefully timing the gearchange for clutch less shifts. Everything underneath looks OK but took the pushrod off and MC piston is stuck deep in the bore. Non-return valve should cause this to hold fluid in the slave and keep the clutch itself disengaged, but obviously that's not the case. Internal pushrod for the non-return valve failed. Popped out of retainer cup (see where retainer metal is torn by my fingertip) and pushrod bent over on itself. Didn't we have problems with these cylinders when the car was going together? smartphone. Oy-vey! New cylinder is quite a bit different from what we got back in '11/'12. Going to remove the old one and get a better look at the condition of the bore. Bore on the old cylinder is in pretty poor condition. I know the clutch is used more frequently than the brake, but I'm wondering what the brake MC looks like and is it destined to bend the link rod like this one did? So, has anyone had or heard of a failure like this one and do you have either a NOS or rebuildable master cylinder for a 1959 TR3A. Cheers, Frank.
  12. Hello again. Came across this advert in eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-TR3-TR3a-57-62-NEW-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-3-4-bore/143069972878?hash=item214fa2898e:g:3l8AAOSwTM5YtGzS Anyone know of this business and can you recommend. The clutch MC looks like the original Girling and not like the new design casting being sold by Moss, Roadster Factory and others. Thanks, Frank
  13. I am currently fitting a Smiths heater, bought on the forum several years ago, to my 1958 Tr3a. Unfortunately I am missing the short screen vent duct that sits between the main outlet on the bottom plate and the Y piece. The duct positions the Y piece in an upward direction. Before making one I thought I would ask if anyone has such a part available. Kind Regards Alan
  14. Please can you let me know the correct drill size for a 1/4 BSF tap. I hope to fix it tomorrow Thanks Richard & B.
  15. Yesterday I opened up mt 10" rear brakes to check the linings. They are worn out so I need some new shoes. In my manual, Autopress Workshop Manual. the linings do not full cover the metal shoe. I have never found these anywhere. So I plan to buy the best quality and modify them at home. I also note that my backplate has no hold down pegs. Maybe I have a later back plate with only a small post and no springs and cupped washers. The main question is where to buy the best brake shoes. Thanks Richard and B
  16. I was disappointed at Stoneleigh when I failed to find a single used overrider. I am planning to have mine triple coated but one side is dented. I only need to replace that one. There must be members reading this who have some in the back of the garage. Please have a look and let me know. I have tried TRbitz & TRshop. Thanks Richard & B
  17. I spent the last two weeks of free time fitting a new steering column and ball joints, and an overhauled starter. The radiator went for servicing after a small leak was noticed. It took me a full afternoon to replace the front panel. I turned on the ignition after all this and the brake lights came on. I can not have damaged any wiring when fitting the new starter. It was a tight squeeze. There is power to the brake light switch and it appears to be constant on the other side of the switch. This is going to mean brake bleeding which i do not like. Is there any other possible problem??? Thanks richard & B.
  18. Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I could not find any red ones which were bright enough, The basic design places 3 X white LED chips (or 4 X red ones) at the focus of the lens, & they worked well enough, comparison tests between standard bulb & my units showing a definite improvement. The final breakthrough was following a meeting with fellow Forumite Dave Lacey, who was interested in my project, & sent me some high power red led's which his company used for a different purpose. The improvement these offered led me to design & have made a number of printed circuit boards to take these led's & supporting components. These boards are assembled, then mounted, & potted into the standard bulb base. I have now installed my TR, a friends TR, both with the Lucas L549 lamps, & my Hillman Aerominx which has the L741 lamp unit (same as early TR2's). They can be configured for 12V or 6V working, also -ve or +ve earth. I have now made up a total of 8 "bulbs", with another 12 assembled pcb's but not yet configured, or mounted to bases. If anyone would like to convert to these "bulbs" I can supply them ready to go, but as they are hand assembled numbers are limited, & they may take a few days to complete. Cost would be £10 per bulb. Note. if using on a TR2 or TR3 with no separate amber rear indicators then a different flasher unit will be required as with any LED conversion, these are readily available from a number of suppliers, I used one from Gil at "Better car lighting". Imaged attached shown comparison with standard bulbs, LED on left, bulb on right Bob.
  19. Here's a nice TR3 BAT auction in Arizona. Low money so far. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-triumph-tr3a-18/ Tom
  20. Apologies if this subject has been covered previously but what is the correct size tyre to fit the spare wheel well on a 3a; I’ve just fitted a 155/80 tyre to a brand new wire wheel & it doesn’t fit, in fact it’s not even close. Before buying this size tyre I tried a steel wheel with the same size tyre & fitted fine. thanks graeme
  21. Hi Tom Have a nice day today. We congratulate your rugby team against us, but we will never forgive you! Dave
  22. I currently have the head off my TR3a to address a problem with suspected (and now confirmed) coil binding on the exhaust valves. I have dealt with that but whilst I had the head off, I removed the cam followers to check that there wasn't any damage to either the cam or the followers. Fortunately there wasn't any damage, (the degree of coil binding was very marginal) but looking at the pattern on the followers it is clear that some of them haven't been rotating or have only been moving through about 10 degrees. There doesn't seem to be any pattern in that it isn't restricted to either the exhaust or the inlet valves, both types are affected but only about half of them. The rest show a nice circular polished area extending across the central area of the follower to within a couple of mm of the edge. Does anyone out there have any experience of this happening to them? The followers were new at the same time as I installed a new camshaft and were supplied by Newmans. They are not phosphated or drilled and a quick check with a micrometer shows no difference in diameter, they are all 23.8mm dia over their full height. My initial reaction is to very slightly reduce the diameter of the ones that haven't been rotating with some 1200 wet & dry. Does anyone have any better ideas? Rgds Ian
  23. After driving into a fence post my steering wheel moved through 90 degrees ( edit should read 180 degrees) but still worked well. Now that we have the wheels off the damage can be assessed. The black tube housing for the column has moved 1/2" away from the black steering box housing. Therefore the peg in the rocker shaft is now operating higher up the scroll. Option 1 Take off the steering wheel and press the tube back into place, and carry on. Option 2 Remove and dismantle the whole column/housing and renew everything. For one hit on the track rod ends to cause so much movement there may have been wear inside . Any way it has never been overhauled since new and if the scroll has moved it may not go push back in correctly with bearings etc which need to be lined up. Is there a specialist out there who can be recommended to overhaul my unit. Thanks for any advice. Richard & B
  24. My speedo stopped working and while I was researching an overhaul of the instrument, I checked the cable and found the gearbox end hanging loose. I have now unscrewed the retaining collar and pushed the cable outer back in place. There is a bit of oil about so it will slide out again. I plan to clean it off with white spirit and glue it back on. Please advise on the best adhesive ? At least it will be a lot less expensive than the overhaul While I had the speedo out I tried the Nut and Bolt Store for a wing nut to retain the instrument in the dash board. They could not identify the thread. One of my brass circular nuts had a cross thread and was very hard to remove. Does anyone know the thread? They are hard to reach and difficult to use pliers for tightening. Thanks Richard & B.
  25. Hi All I have just had to replace my Armstrong rear shocks after feeling the bumps over everything on the on the road. It is not an easy job as per the workshop manual as I could not separate the link from the arm which is a taper joint fitting. To get the shocks out with the links attached meant releasing the retainer plate under the road spring to get the link through passed the spring and the chassis. Getting that plate on again was some job, fortunately I was on a two post lift at a friends house and he helped with muscle ( I´m 80 years old now) using a wrecking bar for the leverage. We got the four old nuts on each plate with an air gun as they are longish bolts and after they where on, I replaced them with new nyloc nuts, one at a time, and torqued them down to 28-30 ft. lbs. To get the new shocks in you are supposed to tighten the front bolt through the hole in the tub, but it was over a half bolt diameter out, so I had to get my hand in up between the shock´s support bracket and the side of the tub and then tighten it with an open ended spanner and a long bar to get the leverage. Putting the link onto the arm was easy enough and I used copper slip on the taper.The last part of the link to the spring plate was easy enough, job done, then it was the turn of the other side, all over again, Without the two post lift, this would have been an impossible job on the garage floor on axle stands. The reason for the bumpy ride was because one of the shocks was broken internally, when the cam plate on the arm shaft had lost its spline so the cam did not turn and operate the two internal cylinders. It took us nearly a day to do the job. The ride now is much better,
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