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Found 779 results

  1. Please can you let me know the correct drill size for a 1/4 BSF tap. I hope to fix it tomorrow Thanks Richard & B.
  2. Yesterday I opened up mt 10" rear brakes to check the linings. They are worn out so I need some new shoes. In my manual, Autopress Workshop Manual. the linings do not full cover the metal shoe. I have never found these anywhere. So I plan to buy the best quality and modify them at home. I also note that my backplate has no hold down pegs. Maybe I have a later back plate with only a small post and no springs and cupped washers. The main question is where to buy the best brake shoes. Thanks Richard and B
  3. I was disappointed at Stoneleigh when I failed to find a single used overrider. I am planning to have mine triple coated but one side is dented. I only need to replace that one. There must be members reading this who have some in the back of the garage. Please have a look and let me know. I have tried TRbitz & TRshop. Thanks Richard & B
  4. I spent the last two weeks of free time fitting a new steering column and ball joints, and an overhauled starter. The radiator went for servicing after a small leak was noticed. It took me a full afternoon to replace the front panel. I turned on the ignition after all this and the brake lights came on. I can not have damaged any wiring when fitting the new starter. It was a tight squeeze. There is power to the brake light switch and it appears to be constant on the other side of the switch. This is going to mean brake bleeding which i do not like. Is there any other possible problem??? Thanks richard & B.
  5. Having tried out a number of different offerings to replace the 6 / 21 W bulb used as stop /tail (TR3a,3b) or indicator / tail (TR2,3) None of them actually outshone the original bulbs. The problem being that the position of the LEDS was not in the correct place within the plastic (or glass for early TR2's) covers. There is a Fresnel lens built into both these covers, & the original bulb filaments are placed at the focus of these lenses to give a good intensity when viewed from behind. So, I decided to make my own version. many types of LED chip were tried, mostly white in colour as I could not find any red ones which were bright enough, The basic design places 3 X white LED chips (or 4 X red ones) at the focus of the lens, & they worked well enough, comparison tests between standard bulb & my units showing a definite improvement. The final breakthrough was following a meeting with fellow Forumite Dave Lacey, who was interested in my project, & sent me some high power red led's which his company used for a different purpose. The improvement these offered led me to design & have made a number of printed circuit boards to take these led's & supporting components. These boards are assembled, then mounted, & potted into the standard bulb base. I have now installed my TR, a friends TR, both with the Lucas L549 lamps, & my Hillman Aerominx which has the L741 lamp unit (same as early TR2's). They can be configured for 12V or 6V working, also -ve or +ve earth. I have now made up a total of 8 "bulbs", with another 12 assembled pcb's but not yet configured, or mounted to bases. If anyone would like to convert to these "bulbs" I can supply them ready to go, but as they are hand assembled numbers are limited, & they may take a few days to complete. Cost would be £10 per bulb. Note. if using on a TR2 or TR3 with no separate amber rear indicators then a different flasher unit will be required as with any LED conversion, these are readily available from a number of suppliers, I used one from Gil at "Better car lighting". Imaged attached shown comparison with standard bulbs, LED on left, bulb on right Bob.
  6. Here's a nice TR3 BAT auction in Arizona. Low money so far. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-triumph-tr3a-18/ Tom
  7. Apologies if this subject has been covered previously but what is the correct size tyre to fit the spare wheel well on a 3a; I’ve just fitted a 155/80 tyre to a brand new wire wheel & it doesn’t fit, in fact it’s not even close. Before buying this size tyre I tried a steel wheel with the same size tyre & fitted fine. thanks graeme
  8. Hi Tom Have a nice day today. We congratulate your rugby team against us, but we will never forgive you! Dave
  9. I currently have the head off my TR3a to address a problem with suspected (and now confirmed) coil binding on the exhaust valves. I have dealt with that but whilst I had the head off, I removed the cam followers to check that there wasn't any damage to either the cam or the followers. Fortunately there wasn't any damage, (the degree of coil binding was very marginal) but looking at the pattern on the followers it is clear that some of them haven't been rotating or have only been moving through about 10 degrees. There doesn't seem to be any pattern in that it isn't restricted to either the exhaust or the inlet valves, both types are affected but only about half of them. The rest show a nice circular polished area extending across the central area of the follower to within a couple of mm of the edge. Does anyone out there have any experience of this happening to them? The followers were new at the same time as I installed a new camshaft and were supplied by Newmans. They are not phosphated or drilled and a quick check with a micrometer shows no difference in diameter, they are all 23.8mm dia over their full height. My initial reaction is to very slightly reduce the diameter of the ones that haven't been rotating with some 1200 wet & dry. Does anyone have any better ideas? Rgds Ian
  10. After driving into a fence post my steering wheel moved through 90 degrees ( edit should read 180 degrees) but still worked well. Now that we have the wheels off the damage can be assessed. The black tube housing for the column has moved 1/2" away from the black steering box housing. Therefore the peg in the rocker shaft is now operating higher up the scroll. Option 1 Take off the steering wheel and press the tube back into place, and carry on. Option 2 Remove and dismantle the whole column/housing and renew everything. For one hit on the track rod ends to cause so much movement there may have been wear inside . Any way it has never been overhauled since new and if the scroll has moved it may not go push back in correctly with bearings etc which need to be lined up. Is there a specialist out there who can be recommended to overhaul my unit. Thanks for any advice. Richard & B
  11. My speedo stopped working and while I was researching an overhaul of the instrument, I checked the cable and found the gearbox end hanging loose. I have now unscrewed the retaining collar and pushed the cable outer back in place. There is a bit of oil about so it will slide out again. I plan to clean it off with white spirit and glue it back on. Please advise on the best adhesive ? At least it will be a lot less expensive than the overhaul While I had the speedo out I tried the Nut and Bolt Store for a wing nut to retain the instrument in the dash board. They could not identify the thread. One of my brass circular nuts had a cross thread and was very hard to remove. Does anyone know the thread? They are hard to reach and difficult to use pliers for tightening. Thanks Richard & B.
  12. Hi All I have just had to replace my Armstrong rear shocks after feeling the bumps over everything on the on the road. It is not an easy job as per the workshop manual as I could not separate the link from the arm which is a taper joint fitting. To get the shocks out with the links attached meant releasing the retainer plate under the road spring to get the link through passed the spring and the chassis. Getting that plate on again was some job, fortunately I was on a two post lift at a friends house and he helped with muscle ( I´m 80 years old now) using a wrecking bar for the leverage. We got the four old nuts on each plate with an air gun as they are longish bolts and after they where on, I replaced them with new nyloc nuts, one at a time, and torqued them down to 28-30 ft. lbs. To get the new shocks in you are supposed to tighten the front bolt through the hole in the tub, but it was over a half bolt diameter out, so I had to get my hand in up between the shock´s support bracket and the side of the tub and then tighten it with an open ended spanner and a long bar to get the leverage. Putting the link onto the arm was easy enough and I used copper slip on the taper.The last part of the link to the spring plate was easy enough, job done, then it was the turn of the other side, all over again, Without the two post lift, this would have been an impossible job on the garage floor on axle stands. The reason for the bumpy ride was because one of the shocks was broken internally, when the cam plate on the arm shaft had lost its spline so the cam did not turn and operate the two internal cylinders. It took us nearly a day to do the job. The ride now is much better,
  13. I’m about to resemble the door locks on my 613a and have everything that I need except for the return spring. Rimmers have it listed as part number 606974 but it’s unavailable. Does anyone have any ideas where I can get them from or alternatively is there another spring that would do the job; throttle return spring perhaps? thanks Graeme
  14. So I have finally managed to get the gearbox out after an afternoon of struggling. I had forgotten that you have to remove the half moon shaped sealing plate at the bottom of the bell housing before you can slide the box back. Doh. How anyone can remove an overdrive box without some sort of crane is beyond me, I can only just lift it when I am standing over it, let alone at arms length bent over double in the car. Next step is to deal with the leaks. Rgds Ian
  15. Has anyone out there got a pair of old front springs. ST made so that I can carry on experimenting with my ride height. I have spent the whole afternoon in the garage looking for the ones that I removed about three years ago. I can collect locally in Sussex or arrange collection. Please let me know how much you would like ? Thanks Richard
  16. My car is running very well at last. Now I can concentrate on the suspension. The back is too low and hits the kerb sometimes. I have seen a TR3 at the monthly meet with much greater clearance. I am searching for a supplier. I am OK with the handling but the clearance is my problem. I have found some springs made in Sheffield, which sounds appealing ,but they are £400.00 per pair. Where do the Moss springs come from ? I heard that someone had spring leaf twisting problems. Any advice please Richard
  17. HI All I went to a so called "Swapmeet" near Salmon Arm in B.C. last week and found amongst the abandoned cars there at the back, a Henry J car, a Valiant Barracuda, and a 1968 Studebaker Avanti with a very striking front end and a rear window that almost looked like a Jensen Interceptor. The Valiant had a similar rear window which I am told you can still get a replacement for as many people saved theirs when they sent the car for scrap. There was also a Monaco in yellow which was rebuilt and for sale which I think is a Mercury model, no price on the ad in the window. I also met and talked with three guys who each has a 1932 Ford Pickup but did not bring them along as it was raining and their cars are all in superb condition as they told me. BTW. There were Mazda MX5´s all over the place there, but I only saw one TR6 and one MGA, in the three weeks we were there. I hired a "small" car which turned out to be a newish Dodge Charger with only 12000 kms. on the clock the same as the cops drive which went like stink when you floored it, and when driving sedately I ended up with a procession of cars behind me all thinking I was a rozzer. We also met in a cafe, a couple who had just moved back from Alaska where he was a State Trooper and now he was back he is a member of RCMP (a real rozzer). Beautiful B.C. it really is, as it says on their number plates. The lake were we were, went 100 miles long, all the way down to the USA border and still further on in there, mountains and dense trees everywhere. Dave i went to a so called "Swapmeet"
  18. The rev counter on my TR3a has up to now been pretty stable but recently it has started to waver about before settling at what i presume is the correct reading. Can anyone advise what is likely to be the cause? Rgds Ian
  19. I had my car in the local garage for a check on the propshaft which he fitted two weeks ago. The rear wheels had significant play on the splines before loosening the spinner. The splines and wheels have covered less than 2k miles. Once the wheel was off the spline shoulder was shiny and so was the wheel shoulder. The mechanic, friend, took the spinner away and cleaned out the recess. When it was fitted there was no movement. This suggests that there must have been some grit preventing the spinner from closing down fully. It seems to be all right now. Could I improve on this repair by removing 3 mm off the end of the spline.?? This would allow me to tighten the spinner fully. I never considered that the spinner could bottom out against the spline. Please let me have some opinions. Richard
  20. Can anyone out there help with a slightly low oil pressure and where it might be going? The engine was rebuilt in 2012 since when it has not travelled many miles. It has a reground crank 30 thou undersize Initially when I checked the oil pump it seemed all within spec so rather than replace an original item with a questionable replacement I kept it. When I started to use the car the oil pressure was on the low side when the oil was hot so I bought a new pump from the TR Shop along with a set of big end shells and fitted them. When I took the old shells out they weren't showing signs of wear and the crank was good but the pressure did go up a bit. However, it is still marginally on the low side. I have just got back from a weekend at Spa Classic 6 hour which involved approximately 800 miles of mainly motorway driving. During that time the pressure at idle (750rpm) was around 20 psi but only about 60 psi at 2000 rpm, rising to 70 psi at 2500 rpm. There are no untoward noises coming from the bottom end of the engine and the oil consumption was/is negligible. As I said at the beginning, has anyone got any ideas on where the oil pressure could be going? It might also be worth adding that the pressure seems to take a while to build up on the gauge when the engine is started from cold. Rgds Ian
  21. Asking for a good friend who has mislaid the brackets that the stanchions slide onto....wanted a pair. Please PM me if you have some... Thanks Mark
  22. Hi all I am preparing a hardtop for my Tr3a and have all the parts except for the two roof bows. Does anyone have a spare roof bow(s) for sale, or one that they are happy to measure/ photograph to help me make new bows. Regards Alan
  23. For a long time now I have been plagued by a fuel leak from the outlet on the (mechanical) fuel pump. I have tightened the nut several times but the leak seems to be getting worse. From searching the forum I gather that PTFE tape is not the stuff to use but can anyone recommend a sealant that will work in that situation? In the past I have thought that I have cured it only for it to re-appear again so it is possible that it doesn't like the vibration. Rgds Ian
  24. Something strange going on and I cant quite fathom it. Doing a fairly long Rally in a months time, so just going round and fettling as necessary. Clutch free play was on the list as the pickup point seemed to have risen.... Free play adjusted, to 0.079" and then after a quick drive I have an inch of very soft pedal at the top of the stroke? Checked the movement of the actuating arm was 5/8" and all good. Does not appear to be a broken pin in the cross shaft. Bleed the system with difficulty, yes the bleed nipple is at the top of the S/C. Nice firm pedal at 09.30 yesterday morning. Just gone out to check and the pedal has gone soft for the first depression....... No signs of fluid leaks on S/C Removed the rubber dust cap from the M/C and their is a red gunge around the end of the push rod and the circlip...grease from new? Certainly not crystalline structure that I used to associate with leaking DOT4 Any thoughts welcome. Iain
  25. Hi all I have just removed the head on my 1958 Tr3a high port engine and found a crack between the valve seats on number 3 cylinder. No inserts are fitted.The crack extends approx 8mm down the exhaust and 4mm down the inlet port. I believe my alternatives are to have the crack welded/ machined by a specialist firm or to replace the head. Has anyone had experience of having a similar head crack repaired. If anyone has a spare high port cylinder head that they are willing to part with, please PM me. Regards Alan
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