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Found 802 results

  1. I am engaged in the second restoration of my TR3 steel hardtop. It has never had a headlining (and the steel band is missing). Does anyone know where I could find exactly how to fit a new lining as Triumph intended? - how is it retained at the front and particularly, the sides.I believe mine is an early one although I'm also not clear what the differences are between an early and late model. Thanks, Mike
  2. Yesterday my TR3a was booked in for an MOT. The car has been running beautifully for the last few weeks but Murphy's Law, as I was parking in front of the MOT garage I couldn't fail to notice a disquieting rattle coming from the engine. It's not there when I am driving (maybe because I have hood down and there is too much else going on) and the engine still feels just as smooth but it is clear that something is amiss. I suspect it is something to do with the timing chain as I have checked all the valve gear and tappets and they are all spot on. Before I start stripping the front off to remove the radiator etc. does anyone else have a view? I have a recorded a couple of videos to capture the noise, the first shows the rev counter with the engine ticking over at a pretty steady 750 rpm and you can hear the noise in the background. The second is a short video of the engine bay and the noise is much more clear although it is not particularly obvious where it is coming from. I have tried putting a stethoscope on the timing chain cover but that doesn't reveal a deafening rattle athough you can hear that it is somewhere down there. Here are the YouTube links, the files are too big to load onto the forum. Rev conter at idle Under the bonnet and it's very noisy. Rgds Ian
  3. Following my recent incident with what I think turned out to be a sticking cam follower I have been putting some miles on the car to confirm that all is well. The one thing I have noticed is that the engine - according to the temperature gauge appears to be running hotter. Since the only thing I have done is remove the head and the radiator but without changing anything that could affect the running temperature, I suspect that I have an airlock somewhere in the system. Is there any way to confirm this and more importantly get rid of it? Over the last couple of weeks I have covered a couple of hundred miles at varying speeds but not above 65mph bearing in mind I am running in new cam followers. The engine warms up very quickly and runs with the temperature gauge needle a couple of mm above where it was previously. It seems that the gauge is reading correctly because the electric fan cuts in at about the same point. I have checked the timing and that is spot on, as is the mixture. I did find that when I re-filled the cooling system after replacing the head and radiator that it wouldn't accept the full 8 litres specified in the WSM and I initially put that down to the heater not having been drained but now I wonder if it was because of an airlock. When I check the coolant level, there is no apparent loss and thus far no evidence of bubbles which might indicate head gasket issues. For the moment all I am going to do is keep on using it but any suggestions would be gratefully received. Rgds Ian
  4. Hi, Having some issues with a 3A since the fuel pump gave out last week. I have since sourced a new pump and began work on removing it which as all forums that I had read, took too long with the awkward angle of the right nut! Something I had noticed upon first inspection, but did not realise the significance of until I had dismantled as much of the pump as possible, the rocker arm fulcrum pin has come loose and is to one side and no longer can be pushed back in (or pulled out from the angle). With the pin out to the side, this is now also being caught on the top of (what I think is) the oil gallery and so also cannot pull the pump off. It seems like a bit of a unique problem from scrolling through forums, would anyone have any suggestions in removing the lower body of the pump? I have attached some images of the issue. Thanks Pearmund
  5. I took my TR3a for its MOT today and whilst it passed without any issues, the mechanic pointed out that there was quite a lot of play in the rear hub bearings. They weren't noisy but they had quite a lot of play. It's a while since I touched them but I don't recall it as being a simple job to adjust them. The only way that I can think of doing it will be to remove the half shaft and adjust the shim pack between the brake back plate and the rear axle, which will be a pain as I have to remove the six set screws with their locking tabs etc. Is that correct or is there an easier way? Rgds Ian
  6. I spent the best part of the weekend stripping down the chassis of my 1960 L/H drive 3a that I've recently acquired; something that is puzzling me is that in parts where I've been able to see the paint layers the original colour appears to be light blue. When I took off the engine mounts and steering box off these also had the same colour blue underneath them. I'm assuming that this is perhaps a primer layer but is it possible that some cars left the factory with different colours applied to the chassis or were a customer preference? I'm waiting for the vehicle trace records from Bill Piggott but from memory this doesn't detail chassis colour. Thanks Graeme
  7. I am sure that there was a thread on this forum about an owner who had made splash panels in the back wheel arch, like the ones that seal the front wheel arch from the main body. It looks a bit more complicated than the front but I have time , with lock down, so I am interested. I have one rear wing off the car. I remember that a reply to the original post was a request for a template. But I can not find the post. Can anyone help with advice. Thanks Richard & B
  8. I have recently purchased a tr3a, that has been off the road since 1975. The Build records state that the car was supplied with competition springs and dampers when it left the factory. It also has a number of other sporting goodies including an inlet manifold that looks identical to the one shown in the old SAH adverts. The head also has been ported and is a different colour to the block. Did SAH put any identifying marks on their heads?
  9. I am about to start removing the front and rear wings. I have been soaking the screw headed bolts, under the wing with WD40 every day for the past week. Unfortunately I cannot shift the bolts even with and impact screw driver. Short of drilling them out or grinding the heads off has any one any tips?
  10. I’m looking to fit a rear firewall to OGB (a TR2) as recommended by many. I know this topic has been dealt with or referred to a number of times and there are lots of encouraging comments and some photos of the how the bottom of the firewall is riveted to the floor but I can’t find any photos of how to fix the top. I’m OK with the general principle, aluminium angle to the floor and inside faces of the wheel arches to which the firewall is then riveted but I’m struggling with the detail of how to attach the top of it to the front of the rear deck and seal it. The rear cockpit liner (tank board) is fitted by pushing the top edge into bent strips under the rear deck. This locates the top edge of the liner under the front edge of the rear deck and then a couple of screws into the floor hold it in place. It would be really easy to just pop rivet the firewall to the front edge of the rear deck but it looks as if it gets tricky where the rear deck curves forward at the sides but also the nicely trimmed cockpit liner would have to be mucked about with and it would need self tappers on the top to hold it in place The photo below shows the space to be filled showing the tabs under the rear deck that the cockpit liner locates in (acknowledgements to Revington TR for the photo and who also describe fixing the top edge as being “the tricky bit”!) On the basis of a picture is worth a thousand words, does anyone have any photos of a firewall fixed and sealed to the rear deck and which also allows the cockpit liner to be fitted? Also any recommendations for sealant. Thanks Phil
  11. Today I started fitting the door interior trim panels and discovered how 'hand built' TRs were. the car is a TR3a and while the LH door is original the RH one is from another car, albeit one of similar age and with everything else identical. I carefully checked the back of each door to identify the correct holes for fixing the door cards and was surprised to find that although they are similar they are not the same. It would seem it depended on the person who was doing the fitting. In the end I based my drillings on a variety of photos that I have captured from this site over the years. Rgds Ian
  12. Can any one confirm or deny the truth in this listing please. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XK120-XK140-WIPER-MOTOR-NEW-ORIGINAL-3-SPEED-WORKS-Triumph-TR3-TR3A/232133465815?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 If it's true, I'll make 'em available to anyone making a works replica. Its not right for an XK120 or 140 probably. But this guy is a Triumph restorer so maybe he knows.
  13. Is there a way to improve the ride height at the back without removing/replacing the rear springs. ? My car is too low and the exhaust hits the speed bumps. There is no space between the wing edge and the top of the tyre when looking straight on from the side. The tyre is inside the wing. Any answers would be helpful. Thanks Richard & B
  14. The battery on my TR3a has finally given up the ghost after about 8 years. Because my car has been converted to negative earth and I like the terminals adjacent to the bulkhead, I use a code 068 battery which fits well. After a quick search on the internet I ended up with a Yuasa 3000 series battery (72 Ah, 630 amp) for £77 delivered from GSF car parts. It arrived next day and has a 4 year guarantee. New battery has now been fitted and is working fine. My only purpose in this post is to highlight the price and service from GSF. Rgds Ian PS My car is non standard so originality (as in big Yuasa logo) isn't an issue
  15. I have a load of original Girling 16P brake calipers that are about to be refurbished by Bigg Red. I have had one pair finished in black to go behind the black wire wheels on my BRG racecar. my plan is to have these plated (not painted) in either the original type gold or silver. There will be new pistons and seals etc. Basically, they will be fully reconditioned and ready to fit. The point of this post is to ask that if anyone is looking for a pair and wants then done in a particular finish, let me know as I will be taking to be done next week. Price depends on finish. Final point is that these are original castings and not the repro ones!! David
  16. In anticipation that those skanky mongrel carbs will go off for a rebuild (replacement), I have been writing my list to Santa. A phoenix exhaust to replace the beastly unsealed rally system is top of the list, as, with the carbs gone, the timing is opportune. This also seems like one job I could actually do myself without making everything worse - as is usually the case I have read the various threads about one v two box systems. My view is that with the hard top on much of the time, the existing system is way too loud (resonates in the cabin) and I am tempted by twin box behind the sports manifold. Is there any reason not to do this, e.g., are twin box systems not really that much quieter (awful sentence construction I know) - are they difficult to fit under there - or does a narrower bore behind a sports manifold bugger things up in terms of gas flow? Also, I have read that sometimes the manifold requires some 'fettling' to fit. What sort of fettling is this, angle grinding the face flat or something equally complex? Finally, is it possible to angle the exhaust route at the rear of the car towards the side rather than centre (where mine currently is) to avoid a possible future towbar. (As a reminder, my existing manifold has four extractor pipes that are loose at the bottom end and sit in a collector connected to the central tube and despite being wrapped - still fill the cockpit with exhaust gases at anything other than law breaking speed. I asked a local exhaust centre if they could fabricate a collector to the existing extractor, however, there're were too many 'buts' after the 'probably' and 'it'll look a pig' sir' !)
  17. Hi Guys I am thinking about bringing my TR3A to B.C. Canada but require to know what you have to do when the car is laid up for winter. Do you have your cars in heated garages? or what other preparations do you have to make? possibly put them up on axle stands to clear tyres off the cold concrete or steel floors. Thanks Dave
  18. Has anyone converted their car to use a cable operated throttle, rather than the linkage rods? Rather than reinventing the wheel, which I could do, it would be helpful to see pictures and descriptions of how your car has been converted. Thanks David
  19. I read an old post from Ian Cornish about him using Aluminium J section to make new rain channels for the TR3 hardtop.. Is it still available?Has anyone made any progress on getting a profile bent to shape?
  20. Hi guys I'm toying with the idea of fitting an electric fuel pump. Nothing too wrong with the old mechanical item, but having weighed up pros and cons I think I would like to try an electric pump. I have an old motorbike pump which does 900ml/min flowrate, which I think might be enough. It's low pressure, too, only for helping to shift the bottom bit of the tank into the carbs. Interestingly, it has a Mitsubishi symbol on the end of the pump, even though it came from a Honda. I want to try fitting it in the engine bay, and was thinking about taking power from the terminals on top of the coil. It would be relatively easy to set it up and test it, but the thing I am not sure about is the current draw, and the spare capacity of the +ve supply to the coil. The loom was a TR Shop replacement item, not sure the specs on the wire feeding the coil. I suppose I could always fit a relay to reduce the current draw on the coil feed. The current draw on the pump I am not too sure of - I measured the resistance which was 2 ohms, which I think gives 6 amps of current and 72w of power. This seems high, when a Goss GE392 pump will only draw 2 amps according to the data sheet. Any sage advice out there?
  21. Hi, Anyone had trouble with the narrow fan belt water pump aluminium pulley? Mine was fitted less that a thousand miles ago by a well known TR specialist, and they either left the fan belt much too tight or the kit is flawed. The hole through the aluminium pulley has opened up to the point where it has completely lost drive and the pulley just rattles about on the pump shaft, sounding like a box of rusty spanners.
  22. Hi guys A few months back I posted about the rear ride height on my 3a being lopsided... can't find the original post now, but I thought i'd let you all know that I finally got around to looking into it and found what appears to be the cause... Two plates fitted between the axle and spring on the RHS, approx. 12mm total thickness, and nothing on the LHS... I removed the plates and found that the car sits fairly even now. Looking back at photos taken of the re-build, it looks like those plates may have actually started off being fitted to the LHS of the car. Anyway - she's sitting level now, so will do a few miles and keep an eye on it. Am I right in assuming that it would be fairly common to find these plates inserted to adjust ride heights like this?
  23. Hi guys I found the below little bolt in the engine bay, sitting near the spin on filter on a flange of the inner wing I think. I can't figure out where it's come from, but it is quite distinctive... small,. with an Allen head in one end of the bolt and a dimple on the other end... Seems fairly obvious that it's something that is adjusted using the allen key thingo then locked in place with the nut. Any ideas what it is / where it comes from?
  24. Probably the wrong place for this topic/post. However, I have this one cluttering up the workshop and am open to any sensible offers via eBay. I’d love it to go to a new home. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-ammeter-Range-Rover-classic-Triumph-Morris-Austin-50-0-50/254270361591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 if it’s of interest, please make an offer, whatever you feel it’s worth to you. David
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