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  1. I have two old and used Borg and Beck clutch driven plates in my garage. Both still have a lot of 'meat' left on them. One is from a TR3a, the other from a TR4. Neither is any use to me as I now have a saloon O/D box complete with the 1" input shaft as opposed to the 1 1/4" TR one. Is anyone interested in having them (for the cost of P&P) before they go to the skip? Rgds Ian
  2. Good afternoon everyone, As I have mentioned in a previous thread, I am planning to remove the gearbox this coming winter. Whilst I have access to the back of the engine, I am going to have a look at the flywheel. When I rebuilt the engine I re-installed the flywheel and its ring gear in the same configuration as when I dismantled it. Since then I have installed a hi torque (pre-engaged) started. I have read various posts on the forum stating that I should have reversed the ring gear to match the fact that the pre-engaged starter gear would engage from the engine side of the f
  3. Hi All, Over the winter I am planning to remove the gearbox in my TR3a to fix a couple of leaks (the seals). Because I only have a single garage, I shall be wheeling the car out onto the driveway to do the removal and then pushing it back in once the box is out. Does anyone out there have any clever dodges for supporting the rear of the engine once the gearbox is out? Thks & Rgds Ian
  4. Went out in the 3a today in the beautiful sunshine. Whilst stopped at lights the driver of the car behind told me that my brake lights were not working. Having had a very swift look at all connections I cannot see anything obviously amiss. I suspect the switch. So my question is in order to test the switch can I just put a link wire across the two terminals and see if the lights then work. If that is the case and the switch is at fault is it an item that can be opened and cleaned up? Many thanks, Tim
  5. Hi, due to a change of plans, Phil Barnet has his TR3A project up for sale on the BST pages:- https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/2104/TRIUMPH-TR3a-RESTORATION-PROJECT For some reason his log in to the forum has become scambled and whilst he gets it resolved I offered to bring it up on the forum for him. All enquiries as per ad Ian
  6. Here are the photo's of Dave Larnder's TR3A Surrey Top. This is an ideal solution for keeping your head covered from the sun and having excellent through draught. Tom .
  7. A very hot spell leads me to wish the 3A would do better mpg. It went to a local sports car garage and the SU tuner had his own way for the adjustment of the needles in the SU H6. It ran very smoothly and off to Lincoln and back. The roads are rough, crowded and the M11 north of junction 14 was a huge building plot with a 1 hour traffic jam.At the show my friend balanced the two carbs with a Gunson balancing tool and then checked the mixture with 4x colortunes. On the return journey we are over 30mpg. Rest days before setting off for CLM The son-in-law cancelled at the last moment so dri
  8. Whilst tidying some stuff the other day I 'found' my compression tester which I bought back in the early 70s and hardly ever used. Anyway, as a displacement activity from further tidying, I thought I would carry out a quick test. The engine was stone cold and I got the following results: 160psi 165psi 165psi 165psi I then repeated the test after putting a couple of squirts of oil in the bores and got 170psi 175psi 175psi 175psi All of these figures were repeatable. I then carried out a search of the forum to find out whether or not the lower reading on No: 1 is significant and it appea
  9. Gents, on current rebuilt and upgrade, i dropped my block and liners new 89 mm liners at the machine shop for fitting. They found that one of the liners (cyl 1) is quite loose. The dry fitting in the video is made without the Fo8. I told them to do a proper cleanup of the the liner seats and try again. I'm not too worried or should I ? Advice please As always
  10. For sometime now I have had very noisy tappets and despite resetting them on many occasions can't shut them up. Having read a few topics on the forum I was pointed in the direction of the rocker shaft. So I have bought a new one from Moss and today removed the old one - I think that I may have found the problem - see image below! The wear is about 0.3mm! The Moss replacement unit has a thread inside each end of the shaft with a grub screw fitted inside. The old shaft was just a plain tube. My question is why are these screws there, do I leave them in and if so is it wise to Loctite them in?
  11. Has anyone got a clear photo. of how the internal cable door latch release is fitted to a 3A? Tom.
  12. I have a TR3a with an overdrive. It is an A Type box from a saloon with a saloon overdrive that has been rebuilt by ORS to convert it to a TR unit. I am planning to change the oil soon and looking at the underside of the box there is a drain plug in the box and a large brass flat disc shaped item at the bottom of the overdrive with rectangular notches around the perimeter. Can I drain the complete gearbox and overdrive unit by just removing the drain plug under the gearbox or do I need to remove the brass thingie as well? Rgds Ian
  13. I am trying to improve my mpg and the carbs have been overhauled. The engine runs and ticks over smoothly. If I lift off the top of the float chamber, how far below the edge of the chamber should the float be resting. Please advise. Thanks Richard
  14. During my recent exercise to replace the cam followers and camshaft on my TR3a I decided to take the opportunity to fit the original bellows type thermostat that I have been carrying around in the boot for a couple of years. Up until now I have been using a modern type thermostat with a coin with a 6mm hole blocking the bypass outlet. The bellows one is marked 82 deg whereas the other one is stamped 89 deg. I assumed that this lower actuation temperature would mean that the car would run a bit cooler but this has proved not to be the case. The needle ends up pretty much in the same plac
  15. My engine builder has started sorting out some of my spare blocks, cylinder heads and cranks in order to build a couple of race engines, one for a TR2 and a spare for my TR4. To get straight to the point, if youre in need of a new engine for your TR2, 3 or 4, I may be able to provide a freshly built modified fast road full engine. Not a full spec but, 89mm pistons and liners, balanced crank, cam to be decided (perhaps what you would like), modified cylinder head, lightened flywheel. Therell be all manner of other quality bits included in the build. The reason for this is that I have a
  16. I have for sale a NOS pair of boxed AMCO 5004 wind wings made specifically for TR2/3/3A/3B in their original box. These are not the Chinese repro items and have the AMCO logo embossed on them. Offered here first, before BST gets a dip, then they go on eBay. AMCO as we all know is the US company that made and supplied parts & accessories to Triumph dealers in the USA when the cars were new. The blurb about wind wings reads as follows. Original Wind Wings offered by Triumph dealers during the 1950’s and 1960’s. These wind wings were installed as wind deflectors on the side of
  17. I have been sorting out boxes of parts supplied when I bought my 3a in 2011 and wondered if anybody could tell me what the attached are. Many thanks, Tim
  18. I was out on a trial run this afternoon to be ready for drive it day, when there was some squeaking and groaning from the front LHS wire wheel. I pulled it off to investigate. There is one short spoke broken. I can repair this but the shoulder on the extension, where the wheel sits, was bright shiny metal, as if chromed. This suggests that the wheel is moving slightly. Is it time for two new wheels on the front? The hub extensions were replaced two years ago and only about 5k miles. I am not confident about the very shiny surface on the wheel and extension. Thanks for any advi
  19. Hi. Ive never had the hood up on my car but decided last night to give It a go. What a PITA! Its nearly an inch short of the pins dropping into the header rail. I did manage it in the end by pulling and tugging on the the hinge arms. Result it is drum tight! It looks like a new canvas/mohair type and probably was a good fit prior to the chassis being changed by a P.O. Ill leave it up for a couple of weeks to see if it gives at all, but is there any thing else worth considering doing? Dave
  20. Hi guys, My car hasn't moved a meter after the restoration and I already see some oil drips from the steering box.....I did use a new olive but am afraid of wrecking the nut that holds the olive. I used SAE 90 oil, but would it make a difference if I used thin lithium grease? Grease would ,hopefully, not leak. Yves
  21. My LHS was 1/2" lower than the RHS. I bought new springs from Revington and fitted the LHS. This made it 1/2" higher than the RHS. The answer seemed to be to fit the other new spring to the RHS. This brought me back to the starting point. LHS high. I have left it alone while the clutch was being replaced. Now I can change gear easily I am back on the suspension. If I add extra spring insulators will that increase the height or only compress the spring? Please advise. While I was busy measuring the front today, I checked the rear. Here I have the same problem but on the other s
  22. Good morning All, I have reached the stage where I need to do something about the seats in my TR3a. I presently have TR3a original seat pans which I re-upholstered my self and whilst they look nice and are fine for short journeys, they don't offer enough support under the thighs and on any journey of more than about an hour, I end up crippled. I have at various times in the past looked enviously at the offerings from Racetorations but at over £700 each it is hard to justify the expense. So my next option was MX5 seats. In the past my wife has had an MX5 and the seats in that w
  23. Can anybody please confirm whether the Oil Filter Head on my 1959 3A is a Puralator or Tecalamit. As can be seen in the images there is not a name as suggested in the Moss catalogue, just a number. I am not certain from the drawings in the Moss catalogue either. Hope you can help. Many thanks, Tim
  24. Hi. Im looking for a right hand drive steering box and column (ideally split) to fit into a side screen car which is being built as a race car. It must meet with proper regulations so needs a steering box, rather than a steering rack. If you have a spare one knocking around, or have converted your car to rack and pinion steering, do please let me know. Thanks David
  25. Now that I have the tickover in control, what is the advice on upgrading the drain holes in the boot lid channels. I am planning to upgrade to 15 mm copper so that it will not block up or rust. Has anyone done a repair? Thanks Richard
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