Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'engine'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • TR Register Information
    • JOIN THE TR REGISTER
    • Find your local TR Register group
    • TR Register News
    • Events
    • TR Register Insurance
    • = CORONAVIRUS UPDATES =
  • Parts and Cars
    • Classifieds
    • For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
  • TR Register's TR Chat
    • TRs Out and About
    • General TR Technical
    • TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
    • TR4/4A Forum
    • TR5/250 Forum
    • TR6 Forum
    • TR7/8 Forum
    • Italia, Swallow Doretti, Peerless & Warwick
    • TR Motorsport
    • TRs Re-United
    • Social Scene
  • Help Topics
    • Forum Help / Rules
  • Useful Links
    • Contact the office
    • Facebook
    • Twitter
    • Members' websites

Calendars

  • Forthcoming Events
  • Community Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Cars Owned:

  1. I've often been asked about drain keys or spanners, many folks don't even know what one looks like . . . . . after all, they're not something you get in the average socket set, and very much a thing of the past. Nevertheless, a damn useful bit of kit when you need one. Here's an example of one on the 'bay . . . . nowt to do with me, I'm just trying to be helpful ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-MELCO-DPW-3-SUMP-GEARBOX-AXLE-DRAIN-PLUG-KEY-SPANNER-/142539416782?epid=2038095214&hash=item213002e4ce:g:2UQAAOSwx6pYoGAT Cheers Alec
  2. Just changed the oil, just some Castrol Classic but as always from fresh oil I have nearly 6 bar at tick over, 6bar at 1200rpm and 7bar at 2500rpm. Truth is I have 5b even with hot running at tick over on old oil. I have never worried about too much oil pressure as its been 25 years of hard driving since I fitted the oil radiator which even saved me once when I drove though town in traffic to discover I had no water in the radiator... 20,000miles ago when I dropped the sump the bearings were brill. But I do wonder about the dipstick and if the notches are right as the dipstick was groun
  3. So due to some difficulties on the road a long while back I bought some modern Castrol Gtx and put it in the 5... Forgot about it for a couple of years and and got a few wry looks regards the lack of Zinc and stuff. Well just putting some Castrol Classic in now but as I started I thought I would do some research. So Take a look here a very nicely done table of research and it seems to be saying that Zinc and stuff is no big deal after all. Modern Castrol GTx 20/50 comes out really well......... http://www.chevelles...-more-oils.html Maybe we should stop worrying about zinc and start loo
  4. len1

    5 years later

    So , after sorting my earthing gremlin which kind of turned out to be a flat new battery today , after nearly 5 years the old girl started,,,and sounds lovely....good oil pressure only a bit of start up smoke, bit of backfiring ,soon sorted...A big day and a relief as well because i assembled the engine !.....This is my first TR6 and the injection system is a learning curve....but today was very satisfying...Hopefully now i can push on and get it ready for national day. Cheers Len
  5. Hi I have taken apart the metering unit and control unit, since fuel was leaking from the control unit. The fuel seal/control diaphragm is perished. I have order a replacement from Rimmers, part No. 519870 but it does not come with the metal insert at the centre. This pre fitted diaphragm is no longer available. Does anyone know how I swap the centre insert from the old diaphragm to the new one? Do I still need it? I have checked with all the usual suppliers - they state they sell lots of diaphragms without the centre insert but no one knows how to actually fit it! Any help much
  6. So due to some difficulties on the road a long while back I bought some modern Castrol Gtx and put it in the 5... Forgot about it for a couple of years and and got a few wry looks regards the lack of Zinc and stuff. Well just putting some Castrol Classic in now but as I started I thought I would do some research. So Take a look here a very nicely done table of research and it seems to be saying that Zinc and stuff is no big deal after all. Modern Castrol GTx 20/50 comes out really well......... http://www.chevelles.com/forums/13-performance/443674-zinc-myth-test-data-dozen-more-oils.html
  7. I removed my engine fan and now there is a lot of noise, it was present before but not as noticeable as it is now. I had thought that this was the water pump, this has been replaced, it's not alternator as I've had two different units on today and no difference. Thoughts please? Noise.mov
  8. This is next thing on my 'to-do' list.... Anyone on here with any first hand experience by which they could make me a recommendation please? PM me if you prefer. Many thanks.
  9. A couple of items I've purchased in the past couple of weeks, which seem to me like particularly good value . . . . On the 'bay, GL4 gear oil, 5lts for a little over £18 delivered, Millers are reliable folks in my experience https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-EP-80W90-GL4-Mineral-Gear-Gearbox-Rear-Axle-Oil-5-L-5320GG/272070758210?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and from Fluids in Motorsport, a box of 4 x 4lts Silkolube delivered for £64 . . . . an engine oil I've used for many years and found more than satisfactory https://shop.fluidsinmotors
  10. Hello TR-Friends, our german TR Forum interested me in the Harald Sharp Rockers. Some just installed them without any further modification. However, this website addressed the issue of the installation: http://www.flowspeed.com/harland-sharp.htm Did anyone consider the 90° @ 50-66% Rule? Which Pushrods were used (PI, Adjustable) and were the rockerpedestal shimmed? Best Regards from germany Jochem
  11. So, i think i can hear a slight knocking noise from the engine of my tr6, ive been noticing it for a couple of weeks. Its only audiable with the bonnet up and seems to be proportional to revs. Its a loud tap/clonk, seems to be low down in the engine rather than top end but hard to isolate. Engine is running perfectly, pulling as hard as ever, no water in oil or smoke etc. As regulars will know my engine is a mongrel, i understand it to have +60th forged pistons built late 80s and i saw 145bhp at the weels at enginuity a couple of years ago, but i dont have full details. . As i
  12. I want to ship my 'spare' crankshaft from UK to Malaysia... I have found a sea shipping company that might do this for 50quid... Can someone help me with the length of a standard 4 cyl crank? Then I can get a suitable box...
  13. Good morning, If one were to have a crankshaft ground 0.020" under size on the mains and crank pins what would be the new dimensions and tolerances? Thanks Steve
  14. HI All, now the weather is starting to change, I've decided to finally fix the small oil leak from the head gasket (2 years ) , as it now seem to be leaking water from the other side too. And whilst it's off get the valve sets looked at for unleaded fuel. Given I've never had the head off a wet linered engine, is there anything I should be wary of or should do/not do etc. The key issue seems to be not lifting the liners with the head, is this likely or would a few taps with a soft headed hammer on the head break this seal? I've already cut some tubes to drop over the studs with some
  15. Hello everyone, I would really appreciate some points of view on this topic. I rebuilt my '71 TR6 using original parts in 1989. It has not done a whole lot of miles since and stood for extended periods while we lived overseas. I have now passed the car on to my son and am giving him some assistance in swapping in a replacement gearbox. As a matter of course we are replacing the clutch (well having the Laycock unit re-manufactured by Precision Clutch), release bearing etc. plus any other pieces that make sense 'while I am there'. I have two questions: 1) The original gearbo
  16. Spin off from a recent forum discussion, I noted that Helen Gill is offering on the 'bay a nos OE Stanpart 57113 . . . . which fits all wet-liner 4-pots, TR2 through TR4A. The only wheels I've seen in recent years have been repros, which didn't impress me any more than do some of the timing chains currently available. As it happens, Helen tells me she has a modest box full of these OE chain wheels . . . . well worth grabbing one, I'd suggest, if you are planning an engine rebuild, at least in my view. No I don't know just what she wants for one, but if a repro is £33 I'd expect to
  17. I've had my TR6 for 15 years now, after buying a partly stripped down but relatively solid car. It was garaged in 1985 by the previous owner and remained there until I bought it in 2002. I then garaged it and over the years gathered some parts while missing out on many more and getting the welding and strengthening done. I got a bit lost in my desire to get the car back on the road mainly caused by time, money and a lack of skill and knowledge. My dad rebuilt the engine and stripped down the front suspension and steering. Unfortunately he became ill and was unable to finish this job off be
  18. Hi all Has anyone spotted a difference between very similar injectors. I've recently fitted some re-conditioned injectors - a set from Neil Raven Smith to the TR5 that I'm re-building and found after some running of the engine, that 2 had failed and stopped working altogether for some reason. Could not be coaxed back to life. the needles seem to have jammed solid. These were Nos.1 & 2. So I changed these for some KMI reconditioned injectors and these worked, but I found I had a small weep of petrol from the olive connection on top of the injector. Did all the usual checks of undo/re-t
  19. King bearing shells....Any good?
  20. I noticed by accident the other day that the engine mounts are supposed to have some little metal brackets on either side. I don't have any and would not have realized they existed if I hadn't spotted them on the Moss engine part diagram (Part # 106428). Do these actually help ?. I can still get them and they are inexpensive. Stan
  21. Hi, I am looking for some help and this is my first foray into the TR Register Forum. My TR6 seems to be running lumpy/hesitant from idle up to around 2.5k revs. Throttle response doesn't seem to be as crisp as it was before. The car was running fine, sat for maybe 4/6 weeks without a proper drive out then developed this problem. Higher up the rev range it seems to sound okay. I have a coolant leak from somewhere front nearside which I think may be the top hose but thats a seperate issue which should be easily found/fixed and possibly unrelated to the above. I am new to the clas
  22. gents I have never personally tested the compression on my TR6 it has done 220,000km and as far as I know hasnt had a rebuild - certainly not in the past 120,000km (as PO owned it for 15 years & I've had it back for 2 & a bit years) when the dyno shop checked it today to tune the new throttle bodies they tested the compression and got 200 across all 6 cylinders - they tell me they checked it twice as they couldnt believe it has anyone had similar readings - i was expecting 150-160 range or even lower given engine age I'd be interested in your experiences Gra
  23. So happy today, started the engine of my TR2 project (first time in 45 years it has a running engine in the body) and it started at the first attempt, I was so nervous that I forgot to film it but the second start is here https://youtu.be/8rdlrcrAXqY . Now I've got to tune the carbs and ignition, sort a tiny fuel leak just before the shut of valve (luckily just a few litres in the tank) and an oil leak somewhere around the oil filter. This what it looked like one year ago
  24. So after years and years of the unleaded situation I was wondering if there are definitive articles on all the unleaded saga? Both my CP Tr6 and Tr5 have been running on unleaded with a dash of castrol valvemaster without any conversions for about 20 years now right? Recently I swapped out a metering unit for a torn diaphragm which has more to do I suspect has more to do with me leaving the system dry for 6 months, I also just replaced a broken rocker on N°2 valve which is an inlet valve not exhaust anyway. So where is all the worry? 20 years hard driving expecting to face the unleaded dev
  25. A TR4A friend has suffered a crack/split in his cast manifold. Is it possible to weld or should he look for a replacement? If anybody has a spare available please PM me. Thanks Mike
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.