Steves_TR6
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Posts posted by Steves_TR6
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You're right !
Unfortunately the new one from Moss does not have the spring loaded 'button' in place.
I suspect it may have come out in the post, as the item was poorly packed in with a load of much heavier stuff.
I'll give moss a call.
thanks again !
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Bloody marvelous this forum is !
i shall go try that right now .....
Thanks !
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OK, this should be a 5 minute job .....
The cable from the heater flap control to the lever on the heater was broken, so ordered a new one, how hard can that be to fit !
I cant get the knob off !
Looking at the new cable there is an indent which i thought might have a grub screw to hold the know on, but looking at the old one there is indeed a hole in th side of the know but no screw, possible a little pin is in there holding the knob on.
How do i remove this, guess i could drill it out ??
Thanks in advance
Steve
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Inspired by other on here, you know who you are, I'm thinking of putting K&N air filters on my car.
Its a 71 PI, and my question is , do they just fit onto the manifolds once the Phelum Chamber and connecting hoses are removed, or do i need to modify the throttle linkage.
If the throttle linkage needs modifying then perhaps this is the time to fit an aftermarket throttle linkage, that provides better adjustabilty?
If so, which is the one to go for??
Steve
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Following the success of last night's starter motor change, god that new starter has transformed the car from a 'will it turn over slowly or really slowly' to 'zanussi 1100 spin', I've just fitted the Simon BBC ignition kit that i ordered yesterday.
Yep thats right, ordered and fitted in under a day
So its an easy fit, i did change the fittings on the end of the LT wires to neatly connect to my Lucas Gold coil, but all done in no time.
So how hard will it be to get the thing to start with probably way out timing?
Not hard at all !
Turned the key, Zanussi Spin, vroom !
I dont have a timing light to hand so presently just advanced until the speed stopped rising with the wheel adjuster.
She's running great.
Two easy and rewarding jobs done in under a day
Steve
PS what cheapish timing light do you recommend to set the timing up properly ??
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Dot4 brake fluid Stuart.
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So I'm told that the garage pressure bled the brakes twice, then we set the servo pushrod gap..... Result? ..... It's a bit better but still unnaceptable.
I have only one thought left, apart from setting fire to it that is!!, replace the rubber brake lines.
The fronts are new but I've no idea how old the rears are.
So I've purchased a set if braided lines from the tr shop and will put them on tomorrow, obviously followed by some more bleeding!
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Well, I've just dropped the car off at the garage for a reverse pressure bleed,...... Let's see if that works!
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Thanks for the comments guys.
Right now i am completely sick of this !
So have given up for the weekend as have other jobs to attend to.
I have braided hoses from the mc to the junctions at the bottom of the engine bay.
Presently i think the problem is the air bubbles being reluctant to go down the big drop in the engine bay, or somewhere else.
I think that pumping fluid up from the calipers might cure this, so am going to investigate this further. My idea is to remove the nipples and replace with a bespoke pipe fitting to allow pumping of fluid right back through the system. then replace the nipples and rebleed the bit of air that gets back in to the calipers, this should be easy ?
Watch this space for an update in the week !
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The Saga continues !
I have now put about 5 litres of fluid through the system and still cannot get the brakes to work properly.
I took the car to a garage yesterday but their system was based on a pressure cap and none were big enough for the TR6
I've read all of the above, and am convinced that bleeding using the brake pedal is just not going to do the job.
I reckon that reverse pressure bleeding would work, ie feeding fluid into the nipples?
My theory is that the long drop of brake pipe down through the engine bay is too much for the MC to 'push' air down, whereas if the flow was going the other way then the air would want to go with the flow ??
Now the problem with this would normally be the fluid overlowing the MC, but with my Braided Brake lines I can get the MC a foot outside of the car whilst still connected !!
What do you think ?
Also, the Servo push rod gap on my car is way more than 0.01, more like 0.1 !
Ive read the Haynes on this, but i dont seem to have two nuts on the end of the pushrod, just the domed headed one??
Perhaps a PO has refitted incorrectly ??
Obviously the grater clearance will equate to less MC piston movement, which cant help !
Its sunny today, and i should be out in the car not pi$$ing about with the brakes
Steve
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Bleeding Update!
Fitted the aeroquip lines, not from Racetorations in the end as they were unresponsive ( I tried 5 times!).
They look graeat!
Obviously there is a lot of air in the system, and after much bleeding I'm still getting lots of little air bubbles out of the nipples.
Any tips on how to get the bleeding done and all the air out ??
Regds
Steve
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Hi
This article may answer a few questions.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/installation.asp
Mike G
That's a great article, thanks for posting the link Mike !
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Ooh that's scary!!!
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Hi Sparky
We are in the same place TR wise, me having bought mine at the weekend too
I plan to do some basics straight away :
Sort out the brakes!
Change hoses and flush cooling system
fit electric fan with proper sensor in lower hose etc
flush engine and do an oil change
sort our a couple of elecrical niggles, mainly the wiper switch....
Get rid of the horrible 1980s goodmans stereo !
but then i'm going to drive it, lots !
I do plan to convert to spax/koni, but there are too many kits arround to choose right now, i also plan to fit minilites when i have the cash.
Next winter I 'may' have some work done on the engine, bigger brakes, overdrive etc.
Happy days
Steve
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Thanks Everyone !
I think : Wilfried is probably right with his comment "I have the feeling that you have a tiny leak at the pipes which you connected to the first new mc, and then to the second new mc"
And being as the copper brake pipes were poorly fitted by a PO ( they're ok but all bendy and unprofessional) I have just ordered a set of bespoke Aeroquip lines from Racetorations.
These will go from the MC, round the engine bay and down to the junctions near the passenger footwell, they'll look great AND replace the dodgy looking fittings on the MC that are suspect.
I ordered a clutch one as well, to replace the original complete with press on plastic hose that's there right now
I am hoping to have these for the weekend........
I shall let you all know how it goes :-)
Steve
PS, I've joined the Register properly now, didn't want to do it before buying a car as thought this might bring bad luck in my search ;-)
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Ok, firstly yes I have seen the bubbles!
Sometime one largeish, sometimes a few smaller ones.
They appear instantly upon release of the pedal.
Secondly the 'one way valve ' comprises of a tight fitting rubber tube to go on the nipple, a clear tube and the valve itself at the end in a plastic bottle. I've used it recently to bleed the clutch and braked on my motorbike, was fine.
We spent ages bleeding the brakes on Friday, and the rac gad a good try too! The result us allways the same, bubbles in the mc and no front brakes.
So I don't think more bleeding is the answer.
???
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Thanks for the reply Nick
I don't have the original mc to compare, just two new ones.
As for bleeding technique, I'm using a one way valve bleeding tool at the nipple end and slowly pumping the brakes.
Better techniques welcome!
Steve
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Help
Picked up my newTR6 on Friday, hurrah it's lovely!
But there's a problem with the brakes.
The brand new master cylinder fitted by the previous owner allowed bubbles back up into the primary, ie front, reservoir.
No fluid leaks out.
Despite many tried we were unable to bleed thus out.
Bought new master cyl yesterday at the tr shop, the previous one was from rimmers, installed it this morning and it's doing the same. Both came complete with ready mounted reservoirs.
Help!!
I am thinking that air is being drawn in past the reservoir to master cyl seal?
Or perhaps past the pushrod seal?
I heard something about faulty mcs on here somewhere, could I have 2 faulty ones ??
Steve
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Hi Chris, yes it's a Tricolore complete with lots of carbon and DP kit :-)
Lee, I do have deep pockets, but also short arms ;-)
Steve
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Thats very interesting!
Im in the market for a '6 and am planning to upgrade the ignition so something more modern than points.... so will follow your tests with interest !
STeve
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Hi Chris
Welcome, i'm new here too !
good luck with your car search, good ones seem hard to find :-(
Steve
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Thanks Guys
I think i will investigate the new Minilite 16*7 wheels, although they may be too expensive for me.
Steve
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Hi Francois,
I fitted the Wilwood system to my 6. I obtained this from the TR Shop..
Cheers
Tony
They look nice Tony
Which Willwood calipers do you have there, as the cheaper ones seem to have multiple packing spacers to widen their gap which i didn't like, but i don't see them on yours??
May i ask how much the kit was, i'm quite near the TR shop :-)
Steve
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Braided hoses are an inexpensive, easy and very worthwhile upgrade, but do not seem to have been mentioned.
Ian Cornish
Absolutely
Sorry i omitted that crucial and cheap addition !
I sense we have touched on a well debated subject here ......
Steve
Heater Flap valve Knob removal!
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by SDerbyshire
I did try this..... the spring is now somewhere in orbit !![:P]()
Moss were good and are sending me a replacement, on one of my regular shipments....![:o]()