Steves_TR6
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Posts posted by Steves_TR6
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Hmm, the dist position is interesting.
I have electronic ignition, not points.
No idea if this is relevant!
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What a nice person you are.
Most people would suspect that PO knew perfectly jolly well about the problem, perhaps it was why he sold the car. Only my evil little mind....
Ivor
No Comment !
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Some good points raised, thanks !
The PRV was set by Neil prior to delivery, i asked him this !
The distributor is at a different angle to yours Guy, i noticed this too, but the ign timining isnt far off as i set it with a xenon timing light
Yes the K&N is on the end of the phelum, but my problem happens after a fast run, immediately after, so surely there is plenty of cold air coming through?
I have a ss rad guard that is open on the rhs, to accomodate a standard air filter, so plenty of fresh air must be forced in at speed.
Braided lines..... I am loathe to buy another set when i like the braided lines but they do get hot.
So many possible causes !!!
I'm leaving ti alone for a bit, want to get the pressure test kit and see what pressure i have.
I suspect this problem has been apparent for a long time, ie long before i bought the car, but the POs mainly polished it and so it never occurred.
STeve
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Malcolm sells a kit for less than £40 I think. And a talk with him is always worthwhile, not least because he's done full restos and therefore knows the whole car not just the PI system. He won't try to sell you stuff you don't need.
OK, i'm ready to buy the pressure tester and see whats what !
Who is this Malcom and how do i get in touch with him ??
steve
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PeeJay is right, I do not have confirmation of the fuel pressure.
Nor do i know for certain the condition of the injectors.
The PO said they were 'new' and theres an old set in a box, but i dont know this to be true.
There's a fuel pressure test kit on ebay at the moment, about £40 but without a 'buy it now' option. I dont really want to get into a bidding war with someone else on here !
Personally i'm doubting the fuel pressure.
Getting pi$$ed off with this now, life's too short to have a misfiring toy !
Steve
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Latest Update ...... problem still present.
Today I thought i would address a couple of the cheaper potential problems.
Relay fitted to fuel pump, with nice thick wire direct from new fuse board.
Original fuel filter replaced with Genuine Bosch inline item
Result?
No change !
The car runs really smoothly when its running on all cyls, will pull cleanly from any revs now, a definite improvement with the new MU.
After the new fuel filter the bosch pump, its a 996, also makes noticably less 'squeeks'.
But after a good blast at full throttle then coasting up to a roundabout she's running on 4 or 5 cylinders again.
Hmmmm!
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Running fast and not firing on 1and2 , air leak on front manifold??
Injector out/ loose??
Just a guess!
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What I would do in Steve D's situation is drive the car on a quiet smooth 'turning circle' (roundabout) and see if it understeers.(It might have had springs changed by PO.)
But if it does, add negative camber to the front. It costs nothing and is easily reversible. That will help reduce understeer. Then back to the roundabout.
If understeer is still unacceptable remove FAR. Costs nothing but will promote less understeer... and is easily reversible. If the car now rolls too much - it will if spring are standard,belying its boulevard tourer nature - you want to refit the FAR and add a new RAR.
What rating of RAR? Goldilocks type. Not too stiff not too soft. If you get rid of too much oversteer, and are opposite lockig around that roundabout, back off the neg camber on front.
Fred Puhn's 'How to make your car handle'- explains it all.
Thanks Peter, thats a plan !
I shall have the polybushes and diff reinforcement done as planned, but not change the current springs.
The car had a body off resprak 20 years ago so who knows what springs it has on.
The ride quality is pretty good but the handling a bit too loose, which i put down to the old rubber bushes.
When the work above is done i know just the 'smooth turning circle' to practice on !
:-)
Steve
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Steve,
I have been considering changing out my MU. I have been holding back because I thought it might be a bit tricky to get the set up right. Did you find it pretty straight forward?
Cheers
Steve
Yes it was easy, but i do still have a problem which i think is down to fuel pressure.
All I did was remove the old and turn the rotor of the new MU to the same position as the old.
The manual says to set the car to tdc on no1 compression, I didnt do this i just installed the new at the same position as the old, obviously not turning the engine over with the mu disconnected !
Neil pre tests the units, and mine started the car almost instantly.
Tickover is noticeable better with the new unit, and the engine pulls more smoothly.
But then there was some rust in my old one !
Good luck !
Steve
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I havnt checked the fuel pressure, i do suspect it may not be up to spec.
Can someone explain how low fuel pressure would give my symptoms?
ie the car runs great and pulls hard right up to the red line, no problems when pushing hard.
Its when i STOP driving hard that the problems arise.
Could it be that the fuel is vapourising in the , braided, lines once hot and not working hard ??
I dont have a pressure tester, better buy one i guess !
STeve
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Test Results !
The car is running very smoothly now, pulling more cleanly from any revs.
However after a 'full throttle' blast the 'running on 4 or 5' returns :-(
I whipped out the intector for no 6, as it had no pulse, and couldnt get it to work.
Swapped for a spare and all is good again.
Another blast and the problem returns.
Theres only the injectors and fuel pump left now !
hmmmm
Steve
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Well i had some time this afternoon so fitted the new PRV and MU from Neil at k-raven-smith.
pimu2 by steve_derbyshire, on Flickr
WOW !
Not only did the fit go very well, with no leaks !, but the car started almost instantly and is running noticeably better.
To prime the system i connected the fuel pump up to a 12v battery/booster pack and let it run for 5 minutes with the rest of the car turned off. I could hear the fuel running through the system and the tone changed after maybe 30 seconds as air was purged.
I did this as i thought a lot of engine cranking might be required to get the car to start, but no!, she fired up within 5 seconds of turning the key.
I am delighted, and planning a proper test run this evening :-)
A BIG THANK YOU goes to Neil.
Not only did he supply the reconditioned MU and PRV for the frankly too cheap price of £120 ( yes thats for both !!!!) but he sent them out quickly and said 'just put the cheque in the post with the old units'
I shall return the units and cheque, and frankly i might include a 'beer voucher' as well for the excellent service !
I have no connection with Neil, in fact i hadn't heard of him until he was recommended on here last week :-)
Bloody Marvelous this forum is !
here's a shot of my engine bay :
TR6 Engine by steve_derbyshire, on Flickr
Steve
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I recommend replacing the MU.
I have today fitted a reconditioned MU from Neil at K-raven-smith, I am absolutely delighted with it and for the very modest sum of £100 !!!, see my other post.
In order to isolate your petrol system perhaps consider clamping the fuel line from the tank, hose clamps or i use a little vise with rubber jaws.
You will fins the 'rubber' hose to the metering unit is steel lined, so dont try clamping that !
Steve
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Thanks for your thoughts guys.
I agree that it's important to balance any spring upgrade.
I'm thinking I might leave the current springs in, and see how it handles with the polybushes and correctly set rear suspension, via the adjustable brackets.
My objective is a car that's predictable and fun on the roads in SE England, without being too harsh.
Perhaps a rear ARB would be a good idea, are these recommended as I've heard differing opinions.
Steve
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So the TR6 is booked into Rees Bros at the start of May for an underseal update, diff reinforcement and polybushes, and fitting of adjustable swing arm brackets and polybushes.
I would like to have new road springs fitted but can't decide which ones to go for.....
I dont want to lower the car much if at all as there are too many 'sleeping policemen' round here.
I do want to stiffen the suspension up but again just a little.
Various suppliers offer various options :
Moss and the TR shop seem to offer good basic springs
Revington offer more flexibility but are dearer
Racetorations, similar to revington ?
Recommendations please !
Steve
PS I assume fitting ply mounts is recommended ??
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There is a TR6 buying guide thats worth buying to help get your eye in.
Obviously no substitute for a proper survey though.
AND if it helps i typed all the check points from the guide into an Excel worksheet so i could print it and fill it in for all the cars i looked at. In the end i only looked at a few but it was very helpful to be able to compare their 'faults' side by side, at home, over a beer !
Can email you a copy if you'd like ?
Steve
PS, good luck with the search !
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Have the Minators in 6x15 with 195x65 and they just foul at the lip of the wheel when reversing on full lock, annoying but otherwise no problems, must be your rack then.
Robin
I have the same setup and the same problem, i just live with it.
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7 in that spec
But the new one is now on sale
http://www.123ignition.nl/downloads/folder/123ignition-tune-productsheet-2010.pdf
I do fancy one of those, but i dont want to lose the tacho drive :-(
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I would like to improve the fuel efficiency of my TR6, i havnt even got an overdrive so its not good on the motorway !
Actually its not too bad when cruising along, its running it on the drive when tinkering that seems to use up all my petrol !
Unfortunately i am nowhere near Wales :-(
Steve
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Thanks Ivor, I bought it from Think/Motec!
It's all fitted, one tiny leak from oil filter fitting, otherwise great.
Oilcooler3 by steve_derbyshire, on Flickr
As youll see i have fitted the cooler to the original mounting holes as provided by Triumph.
I'm considering the TRGB brackets which angle the cooler into the airflow, especially given my numberplate location !
Steve
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I always crimp and then solder but I do have the advantage of a Portosol gas powered soldering iron that can be used in the most awkward places. I haven`t had any problems with electrics using that method.
Stuart.
Snap !
I used crimp connects and then soldered the wire to the already crimped connector.
Then two layers of heat shrink tubing, different sizes overlaid and shrunk one at a time.
I have a little gas soldering iron, that converts to a mini heat gun for shrinking the shrink tubing, cant remember the make but it was from Maplin.
Steve
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Paul
These stats can be fickle things at the best of times, when attached to the engine mount the long hose's absorb the engine movement better and the engine vibes stops the stat from sticking, the difference in heat is not a problem
Regards
Neil
Im just considering where to mount my new oil cooler stat.
If i go for the Engine mount option i would have to drill a couple of holes in the mount, shouldnt be a problem ??
Or mount it as in the pic above using the crossmember fixing, but this is just one bolt??
I like the comment from NTC about the longer hoses absorbing the engine movement better, plus as they are goign around a corner they have a nice curve in them to help this.
Steve
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Well done, Steve!
Despite the frustration of it happening, the satisfaction of diagnosing and sorting yourself should be included in the equation, esp. when the RAC man didn't have a clue. It's pat on the back time, not kick up the.................
And as a Lesson of the Week, it reinforces two valuable points:
1/ What's wrong? It's the last thing that was done to the car.
2/ Sudden failure, without nasty noises = electrical, never mechanical failure.
John
Thanks John !
Yes i was quite please with my 'sherlock holmes' impression.
You should see the neatness and security of the wiring now, every joint is soldered and double shrink insultated :-)
I also thought it wasn't a mechanical failure due to lack of noises, although the backfiring did have me worried. I now put this down to random spark timing due to earthing of the lt lead in the distrib.
Looking forward to receiving the new MU and PRV and getting the fueling working properly.
Shame its raining now and for a few days according to the forecast!
Steve
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sounds similar to my situation last year. Eventualy traced it to the LT wire between the coil and dizzy (about 10 inches long)..... the wire had aged with heat and the middle of the wire had a kink, the insulation had degraded and the exposed conductor touched the block now and again and eventualy all the time. Cuts the ignition out completely..
Regards
Andy
fitted magnetic pick up after that so didnt need the wire.
Well done Yorkie, you are right !
I just got back from the garage, fortified with tea and cake i decided to meticulously examine the electrics before looking at further fuel issues.
And the problem?
A shorted earth lead in the distributor.
It was rubbing on the cam lobes and eventually shorting randomly .... and whats worse?, I FITTED THIS WIRE MYSELF !!!
DOH !
I remember the day well, i was pi$$ed off with the mystery braking problem so decided to do a simple and rewarding job, fitting electronic ignition.
I failed to secure the negative LT wire to the coil adequately within the distrib.... and today was the result.
I have now checked the whole circuit over, and replaced the crimped connectors fitted by the PO with nicely soldered and double shrink insulated ones.
Now having a Beer
And the moral of the story?
Don't be tempted to do an 'easy job' when you're pi$$ed off with a difficult one :-)
Thanks for the replies and support guys :-)
Poor Running after Motorway Run
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Update - Problem Maybe Cured !
Right, today the reconditioned injectors arrived from Neil, what a great service he provides !
So after a nice ride on my motorbike i was in the mood to work on the problem again.
Firstly stripped out the old injectors and cleaned up all the fittings, and fitted the 'new' shiny ones !
Reconditioned Injectors by steve_derbyshire, on Flickr
When I removed the old injectors nos 1-5 were full of fuel as they should be, but 6 was empty, as was its entire braided line. So i bled the line without the injector fitted and then with it.
Next Relocated the K&N using the old air filter bracket and tube, its ugly but the K&N is now definitely in the cold air in front of the rad !
Air Filter relocation test by steve_derbyshire, on Flickr
Finally I thought i would investigate the fuel pump side of things.
So i dangled an led torch in the fuel tank so i could see the bottom, it's all sparkly and new without any sign of debris or sludge, so... I decided to relocate the Bosch fuel pump to below the tank , and temporarily remove the filter.
Fuel pump relocation test by steve_derbyshire, on Flickr
The car fired up on four or 5 cylinders, but i had disconnected the fuel pump, injectors etc , so i went for a spin.
After a few minutes she was running on all 6, so after a bit of pottering i had a bit of a blast........ no recurrence of the problem....... more of a blast...... still no problem.
Interestingly the Bosch pump is no longer making any chirping noises, which it did before ( with both of the filter arrangements that i have tried)
So, is that the problem solved??
We shall see but i am of the opinion that vapourisation in the bosch pump, accompanied by the chirping noise, lead to bubbles passing to the mu and in the extremis of full power usage then throttling off this was too much for it to recover from by itself, hence needing to bleed the injectors all the time. No 6 cylinder is also at the top of the mu, so thats where vapour would 'settle' ?
I somehow doubt that the problem is fully cured, and even if it is then my present arrangement isnt satisfactory as there's no room for the spare wheel and no fuel filter !!
So I may still buy a fuel pump kit from Prestige, unless anyone has a better suggestion ??
Thanks again for all the support, its been great to get suggestions even if i did ignore most of them![:rolleyes:]()
I'll report back if the problem recurrs, fingers crossed !
Steve![B)]()