John McCormack
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Posts posted by John McCormack
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You will find the 3/8" side does have a slight thread in it . The original pins screwed in,.Moss were doing new clevis complete with pin a while ago.
Stuart
Just checked closely and these ones do not have a thread. It has either been drilled out or was never there, I don't know which but as it is a 3/8" hole exactly I suspect it never had a thread.
i have just googled TR2 engine bay images. You can't tell whether they are original cars but I can't find one image with screw in clevis pins on the master cyl pushrods. There are images of pins with split pins.
Still searching for the right answer.
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Sorry but I'm useless with Imperial, I've got a couple of new spares which I'm pretty sure are for the brake/clutch on my 59 3a; the holes on mine are approx 6mm (threaded) on one side and 11mm on the other. I've also got the Threaded Clevis pin & spring.
PM me if you think they may be of any use to you.
Graeme
Mine are about 8mm one side and 9.5mm the threaded side. Yours sound about the same dimensions as the clutch slave cyl fork, which I haven't measured but the holes on the clutch fork thread side are much bigger then the non threaded side.
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I cannot find the brake master cylinder pushrod clevis pins for my restoration long door TR2 so am looking for new ones.
The original pushrods and forks are in very good condition.
The holes in the fork are 5/16" on one side and 3/8" on the other. The holes are not threaded.
The Moss site says they don't have the original items, their solution is either new pushrods with straight 5/16" holes and 5/16" clevis pin, or alternatively an amalgam of the clutch and brake pushrods with a screw in clevis pin. Rimmers note the 5/16" clevis pin is as per original.
Does anybody know what the original clevis pin looks like and where they might be found?
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I have emailed Baines, awaiting a reply.
The text of Baines reply below. Still looking!
"Hello John,
I’m afraid we don’t have a match for this item. If you’re able to send a small sample in to us, we can investigate producing a bespoke item for you, though there would be a tooling charge and a minimum run involved, so it may be worth taking this on as a project between yourself and some of the other interested parties."
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I have emailed Baines, awaiting a reply.
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A sailing buddy had a Sparksman&Stephens 30', been in his family since new, multiple race winner home & abroad, S&S are wonderful boats & still very competitive in class.
Good luck with your long-door's rebuild John, you're 'over the hump' with her now.
Happy TR-ing,
Pat.
Hi Pat, yes they are great yachts. I don't get to use mine much at the moment owing to my focus on 3 TRs. I try to use take her on a annual two week sail to Lord Howe Island (google it, one of the magical places on the plant). It is 420 nautical miles from Sydney across the Tasman Sea, and usually takes 3 1/2 to 4 days each way. Always looking for crew if you are out here around November.
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No, that doesn't sound right at all, ptr2.
1. The hard fuel lines are steel, not copper.
2. The hard line ran well through the fitting (with a rubber grommet installed in the fitting's hole and terminated closer to the carbs with a flexible line. In the originals, the rubber line was simply slipped onto the hard line. Nowadays most sensible people use one type or another hose clamp.
3. I have no idea what you mean by "flexible lock nutted to your fitting".
See this image before restoration of my car. Note: This was after twenty years of storage in a barn -- and I'm the one who put it there, alas! Click on the photo for full size enlargement.
Not wanting to be picky but are you sure that is original? IBy coincidence I have been looking at that clamp on my restoration car just this morning.
The hose clamps in the photo aren't original, it is possible that the pipe support is also non original. I have had my short door TR2 since early 76. I have seen quite a few sidescreens and that part isn't something I've seen often, although I do recall seeing the same or similar which I assumed to be home made.
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High port head then ?
Came with the car and I will run it with this head for the time being. I have a low port head and 1 1/2" carbies to suit the car but they need rebuilding before I fit them.
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Hi all, here are a couple of photos of my restoration. Milestones this week were the engine and gearbox being reattached to the chassis for the first time in 50 years and the body tub repairs being finished and painting started.
The engine was totally rebuilt with new pistons, liners, beariings, seals, cylinder head etc for the previous owner. I had the gearbox and diff overhauled. The gearbox needs a polish up.
The next step is install and connect up the radiator, manually pump oil into the engine's bottom end (already done by rotating the oil pump with a hand drill but as the engine has been sitting since 2013 I'll do it again to make sure), get the ignition timing set up, fit the starter, connect a battery and start her up. I'm overhauling the starter now.
The body is being done by The Classic Factory in Smithfield, Sydney and when finished will be fitted to the chassis. Final assembly of wiring, dashboard, upholstery, fuel system, hydraulics etc should take another year or so.
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That sounds a very sensible explanation for the discrepancies in the parts listings.
I still plan on building mine without these seals, being stick on they can always be fitted later.
Isn’t it great we still have some access to those who ran our cars originally?
Martin
Martin, What commission number is your car?
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Martin,
Based on all the data above, my best guess would be
that the long door did have a seal stuck on.
The factory, in producing the Parts Books, would reflect
their policy at the time and I think the absence of a seal
for the long door in later catalogues reflects it not being
serviced rather than never being fitted.
Parts Catalogues can be suspect in this respect.
But - as you say - if it's a seal that is stuck on, this can be
done later - and would also assist in reducing vibration.
AlanR
I was talking yesterday with an elder down here who owned TR2s in the very early days. He said from his recollection the seal on the long door proved to be a mud trap and many owners removed it. He thought the factory did stop fitting them until the short door cars started. This might explain it not being on later parts lists?
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I am after original beading for my long door restoration. If someone can please confirm that Baines can reproduce the original cloth covered beading that is painted body colour I will contact them by phone, from Australia.
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Was that chrome rocker cover original? I thought they were painted black or did they chrome them after TR2s..
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Just to confuse the issue further my Spare Parts Catalogue, Part No 501653 Amendment 1, dated May 1961, has the identical plate AK illustration as Iain’s, but with detailed differences for the part numbers.
This would imply to me the lower door seal was not fitted until TS 22014, which was the first TR3A on 17 Sep 57.
I am currently restoring an early long door 2. Based I this I am not planning to include lower door seals; that is unless I find water ingress an issue, when I may fit stick on seals, which is possibly what the original owners did.
Hi Martin, I can't follow your finding the seal wasn't fitted to long door cars.
The plate diagram attached to your post clearly shows a seal on the long door and the 1st Ed parts list clearly shows the seal with a part number.
My short door TR2 TS5038O has its original doors and it has the clips and seal on the bottom of the door. The seal on the top of the door between the scuttle and door was added after my car was made.
The seals/trim on page 92 noted as starting after 22013 I think refer to the seals/trim on the aft edge of the door.
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Hi John,
Spent a couple of days near there a few years ago after driving down from Bathurst via Kanangra Walls and the Wombeyan Caves road (not in a 4x4 either!). Fantastic journey and scenery.
Mike
Hi Mike,
We have camped at Wombeyan Caves a few times when the kids were younger. Interesting caves and swimming holes down there, just watch for the snakes.
On our last drive out towards Goulburn we encountered a very big black snake and a few kms further on an equally big red belly black. You wouldn't want to make either of them angry and my wife was beside herself when I stopped next to them so the kids could have a close look. A few kms down the road I needed a leak, quickest one ever in the bush.
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Hi John
We had a week in Geroa last year visited Fitzroy Falls Kyaked in Kangaroo valley fantastic Countryside so have seen a little of that area. Our daughter and family live in Sydney. Would love to drive the TR down through the National Park, last year I was lucky enough to ride a motorcycle down there.
Paul
Hi Paul,
I was in the Navy at Nowra for many years and know Kangaroo Valley and Gerroa well. I took the TR6 into the National Park to Bundeena last autumn. A beautiful spot.
A TR6 owner in Wollongong has volunteered to help me install new door window seals so I will drive down to Wollongong via the National Park and the sky bridge. Lunch on the beach at Wollongong.
A bit hot here the last few days, mid 30s and a bit blustery so not great TR weather.
Where in Sydney is your daughter and family?
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Hi Edwin,
TS5038 O, from the birth certificate she rolled off the line at 08.30 on Friday 10 December 1954.
My long door is TS3732 O, Monday 20 September 1954 rolled off 09.30-10.30.
1306 TR2s in 60 weekdays, just under 22 cars a day.
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Nice to see some TRs in summertime, John. That's a nifty historical number plate on the TR2!
TR1954 is my daily driver Don, out of the factory on 10 Dec 1954, owned and driven since Feb 1976.
The BBQ was held at a member's place at Yerrinbool (google it). Nice freeway and country road drive down except for traffic congestion on the freeway for 20kms. Temperature was probably mid 30 degC and the needle got a bit over the middle, nothing of concern but the electric fan was on a lot in the stop start traffic.
Drive back traffic was very light and a good blast.
The TR2 went beautifully but lacking a little power. Knowing she is sensitive to timing and runs best when the engine almost but doesn't ping, this morning I advanced the distributor about 10 degrees and backed off the vernier a bit. A test drive showed at least 10% more power, better idle and no pinging.
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Apologies, I posted these photos on the wrong forum.
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Yep, I am convinced of the seal. The Pogo photo is probably the closest I will get to the correct profile.
I am very fortunate to get the opportunity to restore a rare car to as close as is practicable to how it left the factory, or maybe better described as how the factory would have liked it to leave the factory.
As the restoration progresses there will be myriad details to be resolved and I will be indebted to the knowledge of TR Register UK members to get it right.
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You might not have a later engine, just the block. My CP TR6 has a CR engine block but it has the CP camshaft, injection meter, cylinder head etc. We suspect the original engine block had a problem, maybe thrust bearings, and it was easier to get a block and fit the ancillaries to it.
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I have been told there is a technique to replace the TR6 door window seal and the inner brush seal without removing the window. Can anybody explain how this is done?
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John
The long doors do have a seal along the bottom. I have a photo somewhere of mine (Oct 1954 - just a little before yours) - I'll dig it out and upload it.
EDIT - found it. It looks like it may be glued (or something) on as the seal is very 'wavy' at one end.
Roger
Any chance of a shot showing the cross section of that rubber seal?
TR2 Brakes master cylinder pushrod clevis pins
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Thanks Stuart. Do you have any photos of the screw in clevis pin on the TR2? I haven't found any, just clevis pins with a split pin.
I have two TR2s, one for 42 years. I have never seen screw in clevis pins on the master cylinder pushrods. I would really like to get some original photos, my books aren't clear on the issue.