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John McCormack

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Everything posted by John McCormack

  1. Does the 123 ignition system provide a noticeable increase in performance? What maximum advance setting are you using?
  2. Again good info. I replaced the motor some years ago with a modern one. It should be fine but will check while it is out.
  3. A very useful post indeed, thank you. I was initially thinking of the T7 but the lack of a fan control and the nuisance of making the fittings etc gave me pause for thought. I have emailed Claytons to get a price for their replacement heater core. In the absence of a better option, it will be one of these two. It is the height of summer here so an ideal time to replace the knackered heater.
  4. I've tried two in Sydney and they said there was no chance they could do it economically. Mine is corroded through in numerous places. I've tried various epoxy type products in the radiator water which work for a month or so but then it springs a leak in a new spot.
  5. My daily driver heater core is very badly corroded and unrepairable. I'm considering a Moss core but they aren't cheap especially with delivery here. What are the options?
  6. My TR2 manual says 15 flats, 2.5 full turns, to start. Both mine are also on 8 now and that seems good if a little rich. Thank you. It gives me some level of confidence it is about right.
  7. I'm chasing a colour tune. Global supply chain issues mean they aren't easily available here at the moment, I'm trying to borrow one. No ethanol in the fuel I use. Mine are now 10 flats down on each carbie and it is a bit rich so after a high speed run I may adjust them to 8 or so flats. Why do you say they should be less than 10 flats down?
  8. Yes the carbies have been balanced with a flow meter and the oil levels are the same. The exhaust colour as a measure of the mixture was lost when we took the lead out of the fuel. I use to be constantly checking the exhaust colour but all exhausts are black now.
  9. The engine is largely standard TR2 but with 86mm liners, high port head and 1 3/4" SUs. I'm assuming they are stock carby springs, they have no colour marks now but they might have had once upon a time. Float chamber needles are the upgraded viton?? ones which I believe are bigger. The cam is standard or very close to it. Stock exhaust. The SM needles are new and the jets show no signs of wear. The carbies aren't that old, I found a set of brand new old stock carbies about 8 years ago. I checked the needle positions again and the aft carby was a spoofteenth proud of the piston face.
  10. 8-10 flats down from the jet being level with the bridge. I put the adjusting nuts all the way up and then adjusted them to be 12 flats down. It was too rich there so I adjusted them to get a better mixture and they ended up being 8 flats down on the front carby and 10 on the back carby. It is still a bit rich there going on lifting the piston and on the exhaust note but I want it richer than leaner. The next highway run I'll check the colour of the plugs and adjust further as needed. I figured that some owners could check where their adjusting nuts are set and compare them. Interest
  11. The jets are down 8-10 flats from being fully up. As the manual says to start at 15 flats down 8-10 might indicate it is still too lean, but it might also be that the manual sets it up too rich to start so that you tend to run it a bit too rich than a bit too lean. It is far preferable to have it richer than leaner to avoid burning out valves and pistons with a too lean mixture. We don't really have a winter summer change here down under. Our summer can be very hot (this one is surprisingly mild with very few days so far over 30 deg C) but then winter is usually very mild compared to the
  12. I helped a mate tune his car recently and when we took his car for a test drive, I realised how much my own car was down on performance. My daily driver TR2 has a high port head with 1 3/4" SUs and new SM needles. The carbies are in good condition having done about 30,000 miles. I usually set the mixture a bit rich but I moved to an inner-city location 5 years ago and consequently spend a fair bit of time at idle. Over time I have gradually been adjusting the mixture to get a smoother idle in the traffic I now face. Over time it had become so lean it was affecting performance.
  13. I have been driving and fixing TRs for 45 years, but had never done a gearbox. About 4 years ago I bought a 2500 with J type OD box on ebay with the intention of learning about gearboxes. I pulled it apart 3 years ago, big mistake as I wasn't ready to do any work on it. I did use the synchros which were in very good condition on one of my TR2s. My reason for not getting to it was I was afraid I wouldn't be able to do it. A few months ago I decided to get into it. It had had a layshaft failure so I rounded up all the gears and bushes I would need. I bought a repair kit of bearings, se
  14. In 1974 I was living on the south coast of New South Wales and bought a new Toyota Celica for $3,800, including optional mag wheels. My recollection is that at the time a new TR6 from the local Leyland dealer was in the order of $8,000.
  15. I was born in 1953 and got my licence in 1970. Back then I looked with lust at TR6s taking off from the lights, the back squatting down and the glorious howl. One day I said. In 1976 I bought a TR2, my BRG one I still have. It has been my everyday car ever since. In between we have had MkII Jags, MG TC, Triumph 2500S etc. The TR2 is just part of the family. We also have a 2nd TR2 now, a long door I restored as a concours example. 5 years ago I retired and we bought a house with a bigger garage. I went looking and found a 1970 PI in good solid original condition. It needed tidying but
  16. I bought the kit off eBay as recommended by Hamish. I ran the test and the fluid didn't change colour. I had the engine running for about 6-7 minutes from cold and about 4 minutes with the thermostat open. It had air bubbling through the fluid including a few 30 second runs at reasonably high revs, maybe 2500-3000 (head under the bonnet so couldn't see the tacho). The temp gauge was about 190 when I stopped the test. The fluid didn't change colour so I suppose that is another indication that it isn't a cylinder head gasket leak. It is probably one of those random things th
  17. Similar to mine. I'm leaving the hardtop white, I like it.
  18. My long door TR2 is in its original colour combination of signal red, fawn weather equipment and brown leather interior. My short door TR2 is also in its original colour scheme of BRG, fawn weather equipment and red leather (the red has darkened over the decades, due for replacement). I like the various original colour combinations, adds very much to the character and individuality of the cars.
  19. It hasn't been delivered yet. I'll let the forum know when I use it
  20. Good suggestion. Yes it has an original heater which is switched off at the tap. I forgot to open it when I flushed the system. I don't think that is it though. I haven't opened the tap for a couple of months.
  21. I removed the head without disturbing the liners. The head was only off for a few minutes before I put the low port head on. I've done 1600 miles since the head swap. I flushed the radiator and the engine as best I could (put water up through the bottom hose) and filled it up with new coolant I took it for a 30km drive and again there is a rust film build up on the top of the coolant. Clean the rust film off and the coolant appears clear, no oil in the coolant. The oil is clean and clear. It didn't use any coolant on this drive but probably need a longer drive to be sure. It did
  22. I checked the spark plugs this morning. All are a nice tan colour, no sign of them being 'cleaned' by moisture in the combustion chamber. I might be over reacting, I'll keep driving it and keep a close eye on the coolant and oil. The CO2 kit will tell me one way or the other. It only cost $34, it will be very useful to all club members close to me.
  23. Thank you all. I’ve bought one on eBay. I’ll drive the car locally until it arrives. If it doesn’t lose coolant or have any other blown head gasket symptoms I will test it with the kit. if it does I’ll have to take the head off, the kit will be handy in the future anyway. I can’t see another cause for the rusty foam than combustion gases in the coolant. The symptoms have only started recently. If it was just gunge in the coolant it would have occurred earlier than 2800 miles after the car was put back in the road.
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