John McCormack
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Posts posted by John McCormack
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7 hours ago, RogerH said:
Hi John,
make sure that the pedestal is fully seated before you try to tighten it down.
The oil pump drive shaft needs to be engaged correctly.
Roger
Thanks Stan. Yes they are the same as the later cars. The timing will be easy to set once I get the dizzy seated.
Thanks Roger. Yes, been there and done that. When I rebuilt this TR2 in the early 80s I couldn't understand why I had no oil pressure. It took an hour or two to figure it out, no damage done as the engine has covered many miles since.
As I recall, the meshing of the distributor drive gears mean the shaft turns as it slides down so it is a bit hit and miss getting the pedestal protrusion to line up with the slot in the oil pump drive. Is there a trick to this?
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Hi,
I am away from home, back Friday. When I get back I need to give the TR2 a service and a roadworthy before heading off on Wednesday on a 3,000 mile trip to Adelaide for our National meet.
I have a brand new distributor which I would like to fit before we go, the old original is not in good condition and has caused a few ignition issues.
I did a distributor on my other TR2 6 months ago but am having a mental blank, probably because I have been away from the cars for 10 weeks.
What do I need to do to remove the old distributor and fit the new one.
From memory.
Set No 1 to TDC, with the rotor button pointing at No 1 plug.
Remove old distributor.
Then I am having trouble remembering how the new one goes in to get it in the approximately right position to do the timing .
Also, the new distributor is a Moss one, through our club spare parts organisation. I assume they don't need mapping to the engine.
Cheers John
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18 hours ago, cjstoodley said:
John,
Your TR2 re-build looks fantastic. I love the colour ! Looks as if you are going down the originality route - no narrow belt conversion I note.
Thanks for the link to your mirror man - do you think he would ship to UK (at my expense obviously). I see there is a phone number to contact him, but is there any way I can get in touch by email or through the register do you know ??
Best,
Chris
Unfortunately I don't have any other contact details for Keith. He is a pretty relaxed fellow, try giving him a call in the evening Australia east coast time, say 9.00 am your time.
Yes, I do prefer originality, a bit of the "if I want to drive a modern car I'll buy one." The red one will be signal red, brown leather and fawn top as it left the factory. No modifications if I can help it. The high port head will be replaced with a low port one and the modern oil filter likewise for an original type.
The BRG one is almost totally original. It has a hi torque starter and 60 spoke wheels but original engine, brakes, steering, electrics etc.
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Thank you all. It is possibly the original starter I believe.
Like Brucer, it does it less often when the car is regularly used.
If it was the ring gear I would have expected it not to engage at all if the damaged bit of the ring gear was lined up with the starter. That is what happens with a TR2.
An electrician said it was a clutch in the starter motor, something to do with the solenoid. He thought it was common to the TR5/6.
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2 hours ago, cjstoodley said:
Hi John,
Thanks very much for the compliment, but due to my almost complete lack of mechanical skills all the credit should go to my restorer - Carn Bosavern Garage in Cornwall.
Your car is very handsome and I like the mirror arrangement on the windscreen stanchion. Did you have that made up specifically ??
Best
Chris
Thanks for the compliment Chris. It is a 30 foot car. I bought it in 1976 and did a body off rebuild 1980-83. Been a daily driver ever since with a fresh coat of paint on the externals 10 years ago. And regular maintenance, new wheels, new top/tonneau, rear springs, suspension bushes, clutch, brakes, steering box etc. I do nearly everything.
She covers a lot of miles, when we get back from a 2 1/2 month holiday we are on I'll service her and hope she is up for a 1,000 mile trip to Adelaide from Sydney for our National meet.
The mirror is a design of one of our members. I am not sure if he will send them overseas to non Australian Register members but his details are on our website.
http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/forsale.htm
I am building another one, a long door, I hope it turns out as nice as yours. I will be doing all but the bodywork and some upholstery myself.
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On 9/24/2018 at 8:17 AM, cjstoodley said:
Hi Ian,
Great article. The journalistic style is amazing !
Hi Bob,
Have just taken final delivery of a restoration I commissioned back last November. An original RHD TR2 first registered in Bath on 13th October1955, manufactured on 4th 0ctober, supposedly one of the last fifty or so produced before the TR3.
Commission number TS8585, although by the time I laid my hands on it a previous 'restoration' had been carried out in the late 1970s or early 80s endowing it with an early TR4 block and fibreglass wings !
The body has now been restored using original Stanpart wings imported back from California and we have kept the TR4 block and then blinged it up under the bonnet but tried to keep the exterior looking somewhere near original.
Even if I say it myself, if looks lovely and drives beautifully.
Best,
Chris
Same colour scheme as my late 1954 TR2. My colour scheme is as it left the factory, restored 1980-83, and the interior was red like yours but has changed a bit in the Australian sun. Yours is a beautiful example.
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Occasionally, maybe 1 in 5 times, when turning the key my starter motor will spin making a horrid noise and not engage the flywheel.
Sometimes it works next try, sometimes it takes a few tries. It has always started but one day it won't.
I have been travelling for 2 1/2 months with the car unused so I expect when I get home it will play up.
Removing the starter from a RHD PI is a job of work so I want to know the solution, if possible, before I do.
Solenoid, starter or ???
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He could try cutting the front apron down the middle with a saw.
Seriously, having owned a TR2 for 40+ years the apron has to come off.
If it has the later chrome wing beading it is best to take them off completely as it will kink at the apron join if left in place, even loosely. If it has flexible TR2 wing beading it isn't a problem.
Disconnect the battery.
Disconnect the light wires both sides.
Put the bonnet opening stay somewhere out of the way, I put it on the horn mount where from memory it can be relatively secure. .
Undo and remove all the bolts, 6 down each side from memory as I am not with the car.
Undo and remove the four bolts at the top of the apron.
With two people lift the apron from the bottom until the top of the apron can be released from the two brackets.
Lift off.
While it is off check all your steering joints as it is easier to replace with the front off.
If not already done, and not R&P, put a Revington spring loaded top in the steering box. Adjust the steering.
If leaking from the front engine seal do that.
Clean it up while you have access.
When replacing use masking tape to protect the front wings.
It doesn't take that long.
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I put Moss ones on my TR2 about 3 years ago. Rear ride height is good and it handles like a TR2 with no suspension mods.
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I still think it is the solenoid seals. The solenoid might click on and off ok but when the oil is warm it gets past the seals and fails to properly engage the od. Borrow a solenoid first.
It is highly highly unlikely to be in the od.
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I had this exact problem with my J type overdrive. I stuffed around with oil changes, filter cleans etc and then replaced the solenoid. The solenoid has two seals, they go hard with age and allow the oil when hot and thin to leak through. When the oil is cold it works, once it warms up it doesn't.
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A fantastic story. It has motivated me to look at compiling a record of all the Australian TRs, starting with the TR2s of which I have two (TS3732O and TS5038O).
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My BRG TR2 bought in February 1976. Coming up to 43 years as my daily driver.
Now partnered with Signal Red long door TR2 being restored and a Signal Red 1970 TR6PI.
I don't know why the photos post on their side. Anybody help me on this?
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I use Hankook 165/15 and have no trouble keeping up with other cars on the windy bits. These cars are not the best handling things so expensive tyres is a bit like polishing a t..d, it is till a t..d!
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There is only one true Triumph specialist here in Sydney, trained with Triumph in the 60s and does nothing but Triumphs.
His advice is top the diff up when needed and don't drain it. It doesn't get impurities like engine oil does nor does it get metal bits like changing gears in gearbox oil does. He says they removed the drain plug to stop people changing the oil as it wasn't necessary.
I have gone for 25-30 years without changing the diff oil in my TR2, over 100,000 miles and no problems from it. It needed a new pinion seal a year or two back so got changed then.
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My J type had the same symptoms. A new solenoid solved it.
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I put a pair of Moss shocks in my TR2. I went close to losing the car when first one then the other shock broke internally on a rough road while I was doing about 80mph. Others here have had similar problems. I couldn't NOT recommend them enough.
Rebuild the old ones.
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I am trying to track down the original starting handle apron guide fitting.
There seems to be an issue for me with my car in that I have a guide fitted that does not go through a square hole in the apron mouth.
Does anyone have detail of the first cars i.e Dec 1953 /Jan 1954.
I know there is a strip from bottom of the apron to the chassis mid point but are there two legs to the angled chassis mounts bolted to the underside bolt? Definately not a strong fitting.
The guide I have is identical to the later type but without the square part, go figure!
hoping that someone can help.
BR
Rod
Do you have a photo?
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The Revington box top with the spring loaded pin is a fantastic option. I fitted one when I rebuilt my steering box and the improvement in steering on curves was remarkable. I then fitted the Revington posphor bronze bushes to replace the silentbloc ones and this capped off a a marked improvement.
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Hi John,
re. values on TR2s, our club members have recent experiences of both buying & selling TR2s.
We'll chat about this when we meet in Dublin next month.
Happy TRip across the equator.
Pat
Hi Pat. We are currently up north in Mt Stewart for a few days. I have been in touch with Jackie and we will head to Letterkenny via Armagh on Wednesday to drop in to his workshop.
I'll call you tomorrow to say hello, if my sim card is working, I have had a problem or two but think it is ok now.
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My car is a CP with CP internals and head but a CR block. I assume I need the tabbed gasket?
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I have had vibrations which we believe are from a defective CV joint half shaft which doesn't have an adequate range of compression.
Yours may have compressed beyond their normal range on the bump. Worth checking.
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Thank you Stuart. Outstanding photo, exactly what I needed.
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I have a non original bonnet release cable fitted to my project car but would like to get the details of an original cable.
I would greatly appreciate a photo of an original knob as fitted to the dashboard.
Even better, if anyone can point me towards a new original cable I would be in their debt.
INSTALLING NEW DISTRIBUTOR
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I can't count the times I have been asked to sing Macushla but I can't hold a beat or a tune. Not related as far as I know, but there are two other John McCormacks (father and son) in our TR Register, maybe one of them can sing.